Moisturizing emulsion systems based on the novel long-chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier

Mesomorphic behavior of the novel long-chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier comprising arachidyl alcohol (C₂₀), behenyl alcohol (C₂₂), and arachidyl glucoside was investigated in order to determine the prevalent stabilization mechanism and moisturizing capacity of emulsion systems based on it. For this to be accomplished thermoanalytical methods (differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetric analysis) coupled with microscopy, rheological, X-ray diffraction methods and a short-term in vivo study of skin hydration level were performed. Obtained results have proved that C₂₀/C₂₂ alkyl polyglucoside mixed emulsifier is able to provide the synergism between the two main types of lamellar phases, the liquid-crystalline (Lα), and the gel crystalline (Lβ) one, building the emulsion systems of different stability and performance. Formation of lamellar structures influenced for more than one half of water within the system to be entrapped. Conducted investigation of hydration potential in real-time conditions provided valuable information on the investigated emulsion vehicles’ moisturizing potential as well as their contribution to the skin barrier improvement. Therefore, it could be expected that emulsions based on this alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier could influence the delivery of active ingredients of both the lipophilic and hydrophilic type. The employment of thermoanalytical methods in our work suggests the possibility for thermal methods to be used more frequently in the characterization of both the novel raw materials and the belonging emulsion systems.     

层状液晶凝胶对微泡沫的稳定作用

以非离子表面活性剂单硬脂酸甘油酯(GMS)制备出稳定的微泡沫. 采用偏光显微镜、冷冻断裂蚀刻透射电子显微镜(FF-TEM)、差示扫描量热仪(DSC)和流变仪对其表面活性剂溶液相态、泡沫体系的微观结构、相变行为和流变性进行研究以探索微泡沫的稳定机理. 实验结果表明, 表面活性剂分子吸附在气泡界面, 发生晶化形成有序、紧密排列的层状液晶凝胶相液膜, 该液膜具有较强的刚性, 能抵抗由Laplace附加压力驱使的气泡溶解和聚并行为. 微泡沫可稳定10个月, 无明显的相分离和气泡破裂现象. 其稳定作用机理是通过影响泡沫排液过程, 增强Gibbs-Marangoni效应, 从而提高了气泡液膜强度, 减缓了气相扩散速率.     

Emulsion stability in sucrose monoalkanoate system with addition of cosurfactants

The hydrophile-lipophile property of the sucrose monododecanoate changes from hydrophilic to lipophilic by adding an alcohol as a cosurfactant. With the addition of a short-alkyl-chain alcohol (pentanol, hexanol), the surfactant forms the middle-phase microemulsion whereas a lamellar liquid crystal (L_!) appears with a medium- or long-chain alcohol (heptanol, octanol, decanol) at the balanced state in water/ SE/ cosurfactant/ decane system. The effect of changing oil was also studied in the presence of a middle-chain cosurfactant (heptanol). A short-chain aromatic oil (m-xylene) forms middle-phase microemulsion whereas a longer aliphatic one (hexadecane) forms lamellar liquid crystalline phase in a dilute region when the HLB of surfactant is balanced in a given system. O/W emulsions become stable on the hydrophilic-surfactant-rich side whereas W/O emulsions are stable on the cosurfactant-rich side. Emulsions are very unstable in the three-phase regions. However, when the lamellar phase is produced, emulsions become stable at the balanced state because water and oil are incorporated in L_! phase in the longer cosurfactant systems such as water/ SE/ octanol/ decane and water/ SE/ decanol/ decane.     

Characterization of the gel structure in a nonionic ointment by small angle X-ray diffraction

The structure of systems containing equal weights of cetylalcohol, stearylalcohol and the nonionic surfactant poly(oxyethylene)₂₀-glycerolmonostearate is studied as a function of the water concentration. In this paper mainly results are presented obtained by small angle X-ray-diffraction. Up to ± 22% (w/w) water several coexisting phases were observed. From ± 22% to ± 55% water a lamellar structure is found. This structure consists of lipophilic bilayers formed by the hydrocarbon tails of cetylalcohol, stearylalcohol and the surfactant, alternated by hydrophilic layers formed by the polyoxyethylene glycerol chains, the hydroxyl groups of cetylalcohol and stearylalcohol and water. From the swelling behaviour the density of the gel structure (0.9 g/cm³) and the cross sectional area of the molecules in the bilayers (0.19 nm²) have been calculated. It is concluded that the hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline, state and are placed perpendicular to the lattice plane. Upwards of ± 55% water the lamellar phase disperses in the excess of water.     

Shear-induced topology changes in liquid crystals of the soybean lecithin/DDAB/water system

The viscoelastic behavior of the two different liquid crystalline lamellar phases and the liquid crystalline cubic phase of the mixed soybean lecithin/DDAB system in water was studied through rheology, with mechanical parameters studied as a function of composition. The swollen or diluted lamellar region is formed by vesicles, and its characteristic flow curve presents two-power law regions separated by a region where viscosity passes through a maximum. Yield stress and shear-dependent flow behavior were also observed. The microstructure suffers transformation under shear stress, and rheological response shifts from thixotropic to antithixotropic loops. Similar rheological behavior has been observed for samples in the collapsed or concentrated lamellar region, at the water-rich corner of the phase diagram. Vesicle formation may therefore occur by shearing the initial stacked and open bilayers. However, concentrated lamellar samples in the water-poor part of the phase diagram are less sensitive to shear effects and show plastic behavior and thixotropy. All lamellar samples manifest high elasticity. The dynamic responses of both lamellar topologies, i.e., vesicles and open bilayers, are comparable and exhibit an infinite relation time. The bicontinuous cubic, liquid crystalline phase is highly viscous. Its dynamic response cannot be modeled by a Maxwell model.     

Retinol fluorescence: a simple method to differentiate different bilayer morphologies

The fluorescence spectra of retinol obtained in bilayer structures of two different systems with dodecyl tetraethylenglycol ether are shown. A correlation between the fluorescence intensity of retinol and the different topologies of bilayers has been found. We have tested this correlation with the C₁₂E₄/benzyl alcohol/water system, and we have also applied this idea to the study of the lamellar phases of the C₁₂E₄/PEG/water system. The highest fluorescence intensity of retinol corresponds to unilamellar vesicles, while the lowest is observed for multilamellar vesicles. The kinetic study of the degradation of vitamin A in these media is also related to the different microstructures of the bilayers.     

Thermoresponsive Dual-Structured Gel Emulsions Stabilized by Glycyrrhizic Acid Nanofibrils in Combination with Monoglyceride Crystals

Responsive dual-structured emulsions and gel emulsions have attracted more and more attention due to their complex microstructures, on-demand responsive properties, and controlled release of active cargoes. In this work, the effect of monoglyceride (MG)-based oil phase structuring on the formation and stability, structural properties, and thermoresponsive and cargo release behavior of gel emulsions stabilized by glycyrrhizic acid (GA) nanofibrils were investigated. Owing to the formation of GA fibrillar networks in the aqueous phase and MG crystalline networks in the oil phase, a stable dual-structured gel emulsion can be successfully developed. The microstructure of the dual-structured gel emulsions largely depended on the concentration of MG in the oil phase. At low MG concentrations (1–2 wt%), the larger formed and lamellar MG crystals may pierce the interfacial fibrillar film, inducing the formation of partially coalesced droplets. In contrast, at high MG concentrations (4 wt% or above), the smaller MG crystals with enhanced interfacial activity can lead to the formation of a bilayer shell of GA nanofibrils and MG crystals, thus efficiently inhibiting the interfacial film damage and forming a jamming structure with homogeneously distributed small droplets. Compared to pure GA nanofibril gel emulsions, the GA−MG dual-structured gel emulsions showed significantly improved mechanical performance as well as good thermoresponsive behavior. Moreover, these stable GA−MG gel emulsions can be used as food-grade delivery vehicles for encapsulating and protecting hydrophobic and hydrophilic bioactive cargoes. They also have great potential as novel and efficient aroma delivery systems showing highly controlled volatile release. The dual-structured emulsion strategy is expected to broaden the applications of natural saponin GA-based gel emulsions in the food, pharmaceutical, and personal care industries.     

Synchrotron SAX and WAX diffraction study of a hydrated very long-chain, dendritic amphiphile + DPPC mixture

The tri-headed anionic dendritic amphiphile, 4-(2-carboxyethyl)-4-[(icosyloxycarbonyl)amino]heptanedioic acid (3CCb20), forms mixed aggregates with dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) in excess water at 3CCb20:DPPC = 0.91:1 molar ratio. On heating, these mixed aggregates transform into fluid bilayers stacked in the liquid crystalline lamellar L phase at about 40 °C. This phase transition and the microstructure of 3CCb20 + DPPC aggregates were studied with small- and wide-angle synchrotron X-ray diffraction. The ability of 3CCb20 to solubilize solidlike lipid bilayers could contribute to the antimicrobial activities of 3CCb20, including its anti-HIV activity.     

Characterization of a complex dispersion of multilamellar vesicles

Spherulites ^® are multilamellar vesicles made up of surfactant bilayers. These vesicles would potentially be very useful for the encapsulation and protection of molecules; however, traditional formulations of these vesicles are poor at retaining small hydrophilic molecules (below 1000 g/mol). In this study, we present new systems of Spherulites called complex dispersions. These are prepared by dispersing Spherulites in an oil medium, and then emulsifying this oily dispersion of Spherulites within an aqueous solvent. These new systems provide an additional oil barrier between encapsulated molecules and an external aqueous phase. We have used polarized light optical microscopy, X-ray diffraction and freeze–fracture electron microscopy to study a complex dispersion of Spherulites at all stages of its preparation. We first studied the sheared lamellar phase, followed by the dispersion of the multilamellar vesicles in the oily medium and finally the emulsification of the oily dispersion within the aqueous solvent. We compared our results on lamellar phases with previous results obtained with Spherulites directly dispersible in an aqueous medium. Since the formulation of our lamellar phase included a large percentage of oil as a component, we studied the localization of the oil in the lamellar structure. We also studied the influence of osmotic pressure on complex dispersions, because complex dispersions possess a double structure similar to that of water-in-oil-in-water emulsions and multiple emulsions are known to be sensitive to osmotic pressure. In conclusion, complex dispersions proved to be new potential carriers exhibiting some unique physical properties.     

Phase Behavior and Structural Properties of the Triton X − 100/n − C n H2n + 1OH/H2O System

ABSTRACT

In the Triton X ? 100/n-C_nH_2n + 1OH/H₂O system, the lamellar liquid crystalline region increases and the regions of O/W, W/O and bicontinuous microemulsion domains shrink, simultaneously, with the length of the chain in the unbranched aliphatic alcohol. In the O/W region, the Gibbs free energy for alcohol transfer from the water continuous phase to Triton X ? 100 micellar phase increases linearly with the chain length of alcohol. In the W/O region of the Triton X ? 100/n ? C_nH_2n + 1OH/n ? C₇ H₁₆/H₂O system, as the solubilized water content increases, the effective radius (R _e ), the inner water radius (R _W ), the thickness of the interfacial layer (L) and the average aggregation number ([nbar]) of the reverse micelles increase, whereas the total number (N _d ), the total interfacial area (A _d ) and the change of the standard free energy (Δ _c ? i G ⁰) for alcohol transfer from the oil continuous phase to the interfacial layer of the reverse micelles decrease; and with the longer chain alcohols, the values of R _e , R _W , L, and [nbar] all increase, while the Δ _c-i G⁰ value decreases drastically with increasing chain length. In the lamellar liquid crystalline region, increasing the alcohol chain length can increase the stability of the lamellar liquid crystalline domain. All the results show that the alcohols, n ? C _n H_2n + 1OH, can be used as cosurfactants in the nonionic surfactant system and function similarly as in ionic surfactant systems.     

Dopant-Mediated Interactions in a Lecithin Lamellar Phase

Interactions induced by dopants in a lamellar phase constructed from the lecithin and water are analyzed by the small angle x-ray scattering (SAXS) technique. From SAXS patterns, scattering peak or curve shape changes disclose information on phase structure as well as the interactions between dopant and host matrices. At a certain concentration, two amphiphilic tri-block copolymers (Pluronic P123 and F127) as dopants squeeze themselves into the lecithin bilayers with PPO hydrophobic blocks and produce various effects on the lamellar phase depending on the length of PEO hydrophilic groups. Coexistence of two different lamellar phases is observed in P123-doped systems.     

Ultrasonic velocity measurements as a method for investigating phase transitions of monoglyceride emulsifier systems in pearlescent cosmetic creams

The phase transitions of monoglyceride emulsifier systems and pearlescent effects in cosmetic creams are investigated using ultrasonic velocity measurements. The transitions between the different phases of monoglyceride emulsifier systems--the coagel, liquid-crystalline lamellar phase, and gel phase--are detected in creams by changes in the ultrasonic velocity with variation of the temperature. The phase transition temperatures correspond to DSC results. Furthermore, the slope of the ultrasound velocity curve correlates with the amount of bound water in the different phases. These insights into the ultrasonic velocity properties of the monoglyceride emulsifier system of creams make it possible to more closely study the pearlescent effect of the coagel. The temperature domain of the short time reversibility of the pearlescence as well as the back-formation time of the coagel can be determined with this method, which enable the optimization of the formulation of pearlescent creams.     

Phase behavior of sucrose monoalkanoate in a water-long-chain alcohol system

Phase diagram of a water/sucrose monododecanoate (SE)/hexanol system was determined at 30°C. Aqueous micellar, reverse micellar, normal hexagonal liquid crystalline, and lamellar liquid crystalline phases appear in the phase diagram. The change in interlayer spacing and interfacial section area of surfactant in the liquid crystalline phases was investigated by small-angle x-ray scattering. Upon addition of water, the section area and the radius of cylindrical aggregates are almost constant in a hexagonal liquid crystal, whereas the distance between each cylinder is separated on the water-SE axis. The interlayer spacing slightly decreases or is almost unchanged on the surfactant-hexanol axis, because alcohol molecules penetrate into the palisade of bilayers. Although the average section area decreases with increasing alcohol content, each section area of SE and alcohol molecules are kept constant. Since the interfacial section area of alcohol is less than the section area of hydrocarbon chain, the phase transition from lamellar liquid crystal to reverse micelle occurs in an alcohol-rich region.     

A study of the ageing of the gel structure in a nonionic O/W cream by X-ray diffraction,differential scanning calorimetry and spin-lattice relaxation measurements

The time dependent changes of the lamellar gel structure in a nonionic O/W cream were studied. It appeared that the changes were connected with alterations in the hydrophilic layers of this lamellar gel structure. The structure of the hydrocarbon layers did not change. The alterations were induced by an increasing hydration of the surfactant molecules on cooling from the preparation temperature to room temperature. Ageing of the cream involves a decrease of the thickness of the hydrophilic layers and a change of the distribution of the surfactant molecules, resulting in, among other things, a decrease of the release rate of a hydrophilic drug. Ageing of the cream can be prevented by using the appropriate amount of starting materials or by the use of polymerizable surfactants. In the former case a cream, from which a drug is slowly released, is obtained. On the other hand, creams containing polymerized surfactants can release drugs at a relatively high rate.     

O/W Moisturizing Emulsions with Saccharose Palmitate and Saccharose Stearate

The ability of two saccharose esters, saccharose palmitate (SMP) and saccharose stearate (SMS), to form lamellar structure in oil/water/glyceryl stearate mixtures was investigated through ternary phase diagrams. Three different oils have been tested: fluid paraffin, C12‐15 alkylbenzoate, and cetearyl octanoate. On the basis of the phase behaviors several emulsions with liquid crystalline structure were obtained and then characterized. Furthermore the most stable ones were added with a moisturizing active, lauryl pyrrolidone (LP), or sodium‐D,Lpyroglutamate (PCA). After the addition, the stability of the emulsions was assessed: It was observed that PCA‐containing emulsions resulted as less stable compared to LP‐containing ones.     

High-resolution NMR characterization of a gel-like surfactant mesophase

The addition of phosphatidylcholine to AOT water-in-oil microemulsions leads to the formation of a rigid gel as the water content is increased above a specific threshold. This system is a gel-like crystalline phase where the microstructure evolves from reverse hexagonal to lamellar with increasing water content and/or temperature. Couette sheared (1)H and (31)P NMR experiments carried out at varying temperature and water content show distinct signatures with microstructure evolution. Because the system has been fully characterized through small-angle neutron scattering, it is possible to relate the NMR signatures to the microstructure. The NMR technique therefore complements scattering techniques but is additionally useful because the technique also picks up isotropic signatures from concurrently occurring noncrystalline phases. The use of NMR to identify such lyotropic gel-like crystalline phases allows easy correlation between templated materials synthesis in these phases and phase microstructure. NMR can therefore be used as a probe to understand microstructure in specific surfactant systems and to characterize the retention of microstructure during materials synthesis.     

Biocompatible lipid-based liquid crystals and emulsions

Due to its potential relevance as a fully biocompatible formulation useful in cosmetic, food, and pharmaceutical applications, the glycerol trioleate/sodium oleate/water ternary system was investigated via optical microscopy and NMR methods. The ternary diagram is dominated by monophasic and biphasic regions where a lamellar phase coexists with different isotropic phases. A broad emulsion region, characterized by small oil droplets dispersed within the lamellar phase, extends from the center toward the water corner of the diagram. Information on the inner structure of these emulsion-like samples is supplied by modeling water and oil NMR self-diffusion data. Sizing of oil droplets was provided at different storage times. A highly polydisperse log-normal distribution was observed. The presence of the liquid crystalline phase is called into play for the negligible differences found in the droplets size distribution upon samples aging. Indeed, samples within this region stored at 25 degrees C did not show phase separation after several months from their preparation.     

X-ray investigation of the role of the mixed emulsifier in the structure formation in o/w creams

The aim of this research work was to clarify the role of the mixed emulsifier in the structure formation and water binding mode in the case of o/w creams prepared with different surfactants. The swelling behavior of mixed emulsifiers was examined by means of direct investigation methods such as transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and X-ray diffraction. The detailed structure image of the creams was created with the help of the latter. The influence of the structure of the hydrophilic gel phase, and the structural changes during storage were studied with rheological methods. On the basis of the results, it can be stated that the investigated creams had different structures from those mentioned in the literature: surfactant did not create a mixed bilayer with the structure to furnish fatty amphiphile; instead, micelles were formed. These results correlated well with the results of the rheological tests.     

溶致液晶中金属纳米粒子的掺杂及其作用机制研究

在用琥珀酸二异辛酯磺酸钠(AOT)构建的具有长程有序结构的层状溶致液晶内, 用不同方式导入预制的亲油或亲水贵金属纳米粒子, 可得到纳米粒子分布在不同介观空间内的无机/有机杂合体. 依据小角X射线散射和偏光显微镜结果, 通过分析掺杂纳米粒子与液晶模板的相互作用, 对掺杂前后体系结构的变化及制得杂合体的稳定性进行了表征. 结果表明, 除考虑掺杂粒子与层状模板空间的匹配外, 体系中静电斥力、范德华引力和Helfrich涨落力之间的平衡是维持液晶结构稳定的基本条件.     

Interlamellar forces and the thermodynamic characterization of lamellar phospholipid systems

In this review, we summarize a series of experimental studies of the swelling of zwitterionic lamellar phospholipid and phospholipid-cholesterol systems using a novel double twin calorimeter. With this method, one can obtain simultaneous measures of the partial molar free energy and the partial molar enthalpy, and the experimental studies thus provide a complete thermodynamic characterization of the isothermal swelling process. A major finding is that the swelling of lamellar zwitterionic phospholipid systems at higher water contents (> 4 water molecules per lipid) is endothermic. The enthalpy has the opposite sign relative to the free energy, thus demonstrating that the swelling process is entropy driven. The water uptake also triggers a transition from a gel to a liquid crystalline state showing that, at given water content, the swelling pressure is much higher in the liquid crystal than in the gel. When cholesterol is added to the system the liquid ordered phase is formed at all available water contents. In this phase the swelling pressure varies smoothly and takes relatively low values at water contents below two per phospholipid, while it is substantially higher than in the gel phase at higher water contents. Together, these data demonstrate that the swelling pressure is sensitive to the phase state of the lipids. We also describe a series of studies that demonstrate that the addition of a second polar solute to the phospholipid–water system has a remarkably small effect on the swelling behavior when analyzed with respect to solvent volume. The reviewed experimental studies provide a thermodynamic characterization of the swelling of lamellar zwitterionic phospholipid systems that should be encompassed in the mechanistic molecular interpretation of the “hydration force.”