In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of an association of bioflavonoids with liposoluble vitamins

A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products.     

Influence of the photostabilizer in the photoprotective effects of a formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.     

Photoprotective effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

A new sunscreen ingredient, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane (MCP-PSQ), which contains an UV-absorbing p-methoxycinnamoyl group, has been developed synthetically and evaluated using in vitro and in vivo approaches. Previous studies revealed that MCP-PSQ has a raising or boosting effect on the sun protection factor (SPF) of other sunscreen agents. In this study, we demonstrated that MCP-PSQ, an organic/inorganic hybrid compound, has photoprotective effects for human fibroblasts, and for hairless mouse and human skin. MCP-PSQ increases cell viability and suppresses the expression of p53 protein in fibroblasts after UV exposure. In addition, the numbers of sunburn cells and mast cells are reduced by topical application of MCP-PSQ on hairless mouse skin after UV irradiation. A 10% MCP-PSQ cream has higher and similar effects on SPF values for human skin compared to 5% titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and 5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), respectively. The SPF value obtained using the MCP-PSQ cream did not drop after UV irradiation of the cream itself. However, higher dose of UV irradiation is required to guarantee the stability or photostability of the formulation. Further, there were no side effects such as erythema, edema, itch or tingling, suggesting that MCP-PSQ is a good sunscreen agent.     

Oligonol inhibits UVB-induced COX-2 expression in HR-1 hairless mouse skin--AP-1 and C/EBP as potential upstream targets

Oxidative stress and inflammatory tissue damage are two major events frequently implicated in carcinogenesis. Numerous polyphenolic compounds derived from plants possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities and are hence effective in preventing cancer. Oligonol is a polyphenol formulation enriched with catechin-type oligomers. As an initial approach to assess the chemopreventive potential of oligonol, we have determined its effects on inflammatory as well as oxidative damage in mouse skin irradiated with UVB. Topical application of oligonol onto the dorsal skin of male HR-1 hairless mice 30 min prior to UVB exposure diminished epidermal hyperplasia and formation of 4-hydroxynonenal, a biochemical hallmark of lipid peroxidation. Topical application of oligonol also significantly inhibited UVB-induced cyclooxygenase (COX-2) expression in mouse skin. Oligonol diminished the DNA binding of activator protein-1 (AP-1) and CCAAT/enhancer binding protein (C/EBP), and the expression of C/EBPdelta in mouse skin exposed to UVB. Our study also revealed that oligonol attenuated UVB-induced catalytic activity as well as expression of p38 mitogen-activated protein (MAP) kinase. Moreover, UVB-induced phosphorylation of another upstream kinase Akt was attenuated by oligonol. Taken together, oligonol showed antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects in UVB-irradiated mouse skin by inhibiting COX-2 expression via blockade of the activation of AP-1 and C/EBP, and upstream kinases including p38 MAP kinase and Akt.     

Topical application of 5-aminolevulinic acid hexyl ester and 5-aminolevulinic acid to normal nude mouse skin: differences in protoporphyrin IX fluorescence kinetics and the role of the stratum corneum

An important limitation of topical 5-aminolevulinic acid (ALA)-based photodetection and photodynamic therapy is that the amount of the fluorescing and photosensitizing product protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) formed is limited. The reason for this is probably the limited diffusion of ALA through the stratum corneum. A solution to this problem might be found in the use of ALA derivatives, as these compounds are more lipophilic and therefore might have better penetration properties than ALA itself. Previous studies have shown that ALA hexyl ester (ALAHE) is more successful than ALA for photodetection of early (pre)malignant lesions in the bladder. However, ALA pentyl ester slightly increased the in vivo PpIX fluorescence in early (pre)malignant lesions in hairless mouse skin compared to ALA. The increased PpIX fluorescence is located in the stratum corneum and not in the dysplastic epidermal layer. In the present study, ALA- and ALAHE-induced PpIX fluorescence kinetics are compared in the normal nude mouse skin, of which the permeability properties differ from the bladder. Application times and ALA(HE) concentrations were varied, the effect of a penetration enhancer and the effect of tape stripping the skin before or after application were investigated. Only during application for 24 h, did ALAHE induce slightly more PpIX fluorescence than ALA. After application times ranging from 1 to 60 min, ALA-induced PpIX fluorescence was higher than ALAHE-induced PpIX fluorescence. ALA also induced higher PpIX production than ALAHE after 10 min of application with concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 40%. The results of experiments with the penetration enhancer and tape stripping indicated that the stratum corneum acts a barrier against ALA and ALAHE. Use of penetration enhancer or tape stripping enhanced the PpIX production more in the case of ALAHE application than in the case of ALA application. This, together with the results from the different application times and concentrations indicates that ALAHE diffuses more slowly across the stratum corneum than ALA.     

Protoporphyrin IX fluorescence kinetics and localization after topical application of ALA pentyl ester and ALA on hairless mouse skin with UVB-induced early skin cancer

In order to improve the efficacy of 5-aminolevulinic acid-based (ALA) photodynamic therapy (PDT), different ALA derivatives are presently being investigated. ALA esters are more lipophilic and therefore may have better skin penetration properties than ALA, possibly resulting in enhanced protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) production. In previous studies it was shown that ALA pentyl ester (ALAPE) does considerably enhance the PpIX production in cells in vitro compared with ALA. We investigated the in vivo PpIX fluorescence kinetics after application of ALA and ALAPE to hairless mice with and without UVB-induced early skin cancer. ALA and ALAPE (20% wt/wt) were applied topically to the mouse skin and after 30 min, the solvent was wiped off and PpIX fluorescence was followed in time with in vivo fluorescence spectroscopy and imaging. At 6 and 12 h after the 30 min application, skin samples of visible lesions and adjacent altered skin (UVB-exposed mouse skin) and normal mouse skin were collected for fluorescence microscopy. From each sample, frozen sections were made and phase contrast images and fluorescence images were recorded. The in vivo fluorescence kinetics showed that ALAPE induced more PpIX in visible lesions and altered skin of the UVB-exposed mouse skin, but not in the normal mouse skin. In the microscopic fluorescence images, higher ALAPE-induced PpIX levels were measured in the stratum corneum, but not in the dysplastic layer of the epidermis. In deeper layers of the skin, PpIX levels were the same after ALA and ALAPE application. In conclusion, ALAPE does induce higher PpIX fluorescence levels in vivo in our early skin cancer model, but these higher PpIX levels are not located in the dysplastic layer of the epidermis.     

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.     

(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent

The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC₅₀ 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.     

Systemic component of protoporphyrin IX production in nude mouse skin upon topical application of aminolevulinic acid depends on the application conditions

Topical application of 5-aminolevulinic acid (ALA) for protoporphyrin IX (PpIX)-based photodynamic therapy of skin cancer is generally considered not to induce systemic side effects because PpIX is supposed to be formed locally. However, earlier studies with topically applied ALA have revealed that in mice PpIX is not only produced in the application area but also in other organs including skin outside the application area, whereas esterified ALA does not. From these results, it was concluded that it is not redistribution of circulating PpIX that causes the fluorescence distant from the ALA application site, but rather, local PpIX production induced by circulating ALA. In the present study we investigate the effects of the ALA concentration in the cream, the application time, the presence of a penetration enhancer, the presence of the stratum corneum and esterification of ALA on the PpIX production in nude mouse skin outside the area where ALA is applied. For this purpose, ALA and ALA hexyl ester (ALAHE) were applied to one flank, and the PpIX fluorescence was measured in the contralateral flank. During a 24 h application of ALA, PpIX was produced in the contralateral flank. No PpIX could be detected in the contralateral flank after ALA application times ranging from 1 to 60 min. Tape-stripping the skin prior to short-term ALA application, but not the addition of a penetration enhancer, resulted in PpIX production in the contralateral flank. When ALAHE was applied, no PpIX fluorescence was measured in the contralateral flank under any application condition. The results suggest that the systemic component of PpIX production outside the ALA application area plays a minor or no role in relevant clinical situations, when the duration of ALA (ester) application is relatively short and a penetration enhancer is possibly added.     

Characterization and evaluation of free and nanostructured ursolic acid incorporated in cosmetic formulation using thermal analysis

The ursolic acid (UA) increases the skin’s barrier function and acts in epidermal differentiation of keratinocytes in the epidermis, promoting cell renewal. Besides the mentioned properties UA also has antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-irritant functions to cosmetic formulations. Thus, it is necessary formulation studies to insure the development of quality cosmetic products containing this active, increasing its antioxidant potential within nanoparticles. This study aims to characterize and evaluate the thermal behavior of UA in free and nanostructured forms, and both incorporated into a cosmetic base formulation, using thermogravimetry and differential scanning calorimetry. Through the study were observed that free UA, in the embedded nanoparticles and in base formulation exhibited different behavior in similar thermal profile and relative to the presence of UA. The UA remained stable to a temperature of 250 °C and the technique has been shown to be effective for characterizing UA, evaluate water content, and stability of the formulation base.     

Noninvasive Optical Imaging of UV‐Induced Squamous Cell Carcinoma in Murine Skin: Studies of Early Tumor Development and Vitamin D Enhancement of Protoporphyrin IX Production

Better noninvasive techniques are needed to monitor protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) levels before and during photodynamic therapy (PDT) of squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) of the skin. Our aim was to evaluate (1) multispectral fluorescent imaging of ultraviolet light (UV)‐induced cancer and precancer in a mouse model of SCC and (2) multispectral imaging and probe‐based fluorescence detection as a tool to study vitamin D (VD) effects on aminolevulinic acid (ALA)‐induced PpIX synthesis. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was imaged weekly during a 24‐week UV carcinogenesis protocol. Hot spots of PpIX fluorescence were detectable by multispectral imaging beginning at 14 weeks of UV exposure. Many hot spots disappeared after cessation of UV at week 20, but others persisted or became visible after week 20, and corresponded to tumors that eventually became visible by eye. In SCC‐bearing mice pretreated with topical VD before ALA application, our optical techniques confirmed that VD preconditioning induces a tumor‐selective increase in PpIX levels. Fluorescence‐based optical imaging of PpIX is a promising tool for detecting early SCC lesions of the skin. Pretreatment with VD can increase the ability to detect early tumors, providing a potential new way to improve efficacy of ALA‐PDT.     

Inhibitory effects of silk protein, sericin on UVB-induced acute damage and tumor promotion by reducing oxidative stress in the skin of hairless mouse

This study was conducted to assess protective effect of an antioxidant protein, sericin, on UVB-induced acute damage and tumor promotion in mouse skin. In experiment 1, HR-1 hairless mice were treated with 180 mJ/cm2 of ultraviolet B light (UVB) once daily for 1 and 7 days. The treatment for 7 days caused red sunburn lesions of the skin. The intensity of red color and area of these lesions were inhibited by the topical application of sericin at the dose of 5 mg after UVB treatment. Immunohistochemical analyses showed that the application of sericin significantly suppressed UVB-induced elevations in 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE), expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) protein, and proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA)-labeling index in the UVB-exposed epidermis. In experiment 2, HR-1 hairless mice were treated with 200 nmol of 7,12-dimethylbenz [alpha] anthracene (DMBA) followed 1 week later by irradiation with 180 mJ/ cm2 of UVB twice weekly for 22 weeks. The protective effect of sericin was evident in terms of significant reduction in tumor incidence and tumor multiplicity at the dose of 5 mg. The results suggest that sericin possesses photoprotective effect against UVB-induced acute damage and tumor promotion by reducing oxidative stress, COX-2 and cell proliferation in mouse skin.     

Protective Effect of Curcumin Against Acute Ultraviolet B Irradiation‐induced Photo‐damage

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is one of the most dangerous insults for skin and causes sunburn, erythema, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Curcumin (diferuloylmethane), a yellow spice derived from dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa, has been shown to possess significant anti‐inflammatory, antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, antimutagenic, anticoagulant and anti‐infective effects. However, the protective effects of curcumin against acute photo‐damage are poorly understood. In this study, we investigated the photoprotective effects of curcumin against UVB‐induced acute photo‐damage in hairless mice and immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Topical application of curcumin significantly inhibited acute UVB (540 mJ cm^?2, for 3 successive days)‐induced inflammatory cells, collagen accrementition derangement and lipid peroxidation, and effectively induced NF‐E2‐related factor 2 (Nrf2) nuclear accumulation in uncovered (Uncv) hairless mice skin. Treatment of HaCaT cells with curcumin significantly attenuated acute UVB (300 mJ cm^?2)‐induced lactate dehydrogenase release, intracellular reactive oxygen species production and DNA damage, activated the expression of the phase II detoxifying enzymes and promoted DNA repair activity. The photoprotective effect provided by curcumin was potential associated with modulation of Nrf2‐dependent antioxidant response. Our study suggested that curcumin is a potential agent for preventing and/or treating UV radiation‐induced acute inflammation and photoaging.     

Topical application of 5-aminolevulinic acid and its methylester,hexylester and octylester derivatives: considerations for dosimetry in mouse skin model

Ester derivatives of 5-aminolevulinic acid (ALA-esters) have been proposed as alternative drugs for ALA in photodynamic therapy. After topical application of creams containing ALA, ALA methylester (ALA-Me), ALA hexylester (ALA-Hex) and ALA octylester (ALA-Oct) on mouse skin, typical fluorescence excitation and emission spectra of protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) were recorded, exhibiting a similar spectral shape for all the drugs in the range of concentrations (0.5-20%) studied. The accumulation kinetics of PpIX followed nearly a similar profile for all the drug formulations. The fluorescence of PpIX peaked at around 6-12 h of continuous cream application. Nevertheless, some differences in pharmacokinetics were noticed. For ALA cream, the highest PpIX fluorescence was achieved using 20% of ALA in an ointment. Conversely, 10% of ALA-Me and ALA-Hex, but not of ALA-Oct, in the cream was more efficient (P < 0.05) than was 20%. The cream becomes rather fluid when 20% of any of these ALA-esters is used in ointment, whereas 10% and lower concentrations of ALA-esters do not significantly increase fluidity of the cream. The dependence of PpIX accumulation on the concentration of ALA and ALA-ester in the applied cream followed (P < 0.002) kinetics as described by a mathematical model based on the Michaelis-Menten equation for enzymatic processes. Under the present conditions, the PpIX amount in the skin increased by around 50% by the application of ALA-Me, ALA-Hex or ALA-Oct for 4-12 h as compared with ALA for the same period. Observations of the mice under exposure to blue light showed that after 8-24 h of continuous application of ALA, the whole mouse was fluorescent, whereas in the case of ALA-Me, ALA-Hex and ALA-Oct the fluorescence of PpIX was located only at the area of initial cream application. The amount of the active compound in the applied cream necessary to induce 90% of the maximal amount of PpIX was determined for normal mouse skin. Optimal PpIX fluorescence can be attained using around 5% ALA, 10% ALA-Me and 5% ALA-Hex creams during short application times (2-4 h). Topical application of ALA-Oct may not gain optimal PpIX accumulation for short applications (<5 h). For long application times (8-12 h), it seems that around 1% ALA, 4% ALA-Me, 6% ALA-Hex and 16% ALA-Oct can give optimal PpIX fluorescence. But for long application times and high concentrations, systemic effect of ALA applied topically on relatively large areas should be considered.     

The Temperature Dependence of Protoporphyrin IX Production in Cells and Tissues

The formation of protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) in human skin during topical application of 5-aminolevulinic acid (ALA) was found to be strongly temperature dependent, with an activation energy of about 17 kcal/mol. This temperature dependence is mainly related to porphyrin production and not to ALA penetration into the skin. The penetration of ALA into mouse and human skin was almost temperature independent. The activation energy of PpIX production in mouse skin was practically identical with that in human skin. The activation energy of ALA uptake by cells in vitro was about 10 kcal/mol and that for PpIX production was about 13 kcal/mol. The latter activation energy was within the error limits similar to that for the activity of the enzyme porphobilinogen deaminase, suggesting that this enzyme might represent a rate-limiting step for PpIX production in living tissue.     

Simulations on the selectivity of 5-aminolaevulinic acid-induced fluorescence in vivo

The knowledge of the exact time course of a photosensitizer in tumour and surrounding host tissue is fundamental for effective photodynamic therapy (PDT) and fluorescence-based diagnosis. In this study the time course of porphyrin fluorescence following topical application of 5-aminolaevulinic acid (ALA) using different formulations, concentrations and incubation times has been measured in amelanotic melanomas (A-Mel-3) (n = 54) grown in transparent dorsal skinfold chambers of Syrian golden hamsters and in human basal cell carcinomas (BCCs) (n = 40) in vivo. To simulate the accumulation of ALA-induced protoporphyrin IX (Pp IX), a three-compartment model has been developed and rate constants have been determined. The kinetics of both the A-Mel-3 tumours and the BCCs show a significantly higher fluorescence intensity in tumour as compared to normal surrounding host tissue. Maximal fluorescence intensity in A-Mel-3 tumours as a percentage of the reference standard used occurs 150 min post incubation (p.i.) using a 1, 3 or 10% (vol.) ALA solution buffered to pH 7.4 and 1 h incubation time. After a 4 h incubation time maximal fluorescence intensity in tumour is measured shortly p.i. A concentration of 10% ALA does not increase the fluorescence intensity as compared to 3% ALA following 4 h incubation, but either 3 or 10% ALA yields a significantly higher fluorescence after 4 h incubation time as compared to 1 h. The fluorescence intensity following an 8 h incubation reaches its maximum directly p.i. for all concentrations and then decreases exponentially. The fluorescence intensity in the surrounding host tissue shows no statistically significant difference regarding concentration or incubation time. At least during the first hour p.i., the fluorescence intensity measured in the surrounding tissue is lower as compared to that in the tumour in all groups. 24 h after topical application hardly any fluorescence is detectable in tumour or surrounding host tissue in all experimental groups. Incubating human BCCs with a 20% ALA cream (water-in-oil emulsion) or a 20% ALA gel (containing 40% dimethyl sulfoxide) for approximately 2 h yields a similar fluorescence intensity directly after incubation for either cream or gel. However, while yielding a maximum 120 min p.i. with cream, the fluorescence intensity increases for a longer time (about 2-3 h p.i.) and up to higher values using the gel formulation. In surrounding normal skin, cream as well as gel formulation yields a similar fluorescence intensity directly after incubation. Afterwards the fluorescence intensity decreases slowly using the cream whereas a further increase of the fluorescence intensity is measured in the normal skin with a maximum 240 min p.i. using the gel formulation. The results of the proposed three-compartment model indicate that the observed selectivity of accumulated porphyrins following topical application of ALA is mainly governed by an increased ALA penetration of the stratum corneum of the skin, an accelerated ALA uptake into the cell and a higher porphyrin formation in tumour as compared to normal skin tissue, but not by a reduced ferrocheletase activity.     

Protection against photoaging in the hairless mouse by the isoflavone equol

Topical application of the isoflavone equol immediately following solar-simulated UV (SSUV) radiation exposure has previously been demonstrated to have significant photoprotective effects. Equol reduced both the inflammatory edema and the systemic suppression of the contact hypersensitivity reaction in hairless mice. Furthermore, daily topical equol application immediately following irradiation during a 10-week chronic SSUV exposure regime also reduced photocarcinogenesis severity in the mouse. This study examines the potential for topical equol to prevent photoaging in response to chronic SSUV irradiation for up to 30 weeks. We did not find consistent expression of the characteristic markers of photoaging until 30 weeks, although moderate epidermal hyperplasia and a transient increase in dermal mast cell numbers were evident after 1 week. Daily application of 10 muM equol lotion significantly reduced these early changes. However after 30 weeks of SSUV exposure, photoaging was well developed, as shown histologically by markedly increased epidermal hyperplasia, increased dermal mast cell number, pronounced focal elastotic deposits, degraded dermal collagen and deposition of glycosaminoglycans in the lower dermis. Topical equol treatment protected significantly from each of these impairments, as demonstrated histologically and quantitatively. Additionally, equol was found to have strong antioxidant action against acute UVA (320-400 nm)-induced lipid peroxidation of mouse skin, this property accounting for its antiphotoaging mechanism. The evidence for equol's antiphotoaging activity, taken together with its anti-inflammatory, immunoprotective and anticarcinogenic efficacy against SSUV irradiation in the mouse, suggests that equol could be developed as a helpful topical photoprotective agent for daily use by humans.     

ESI–MS method for in vitro investigation of skin penetration by copper–amino acid complexes: from an emulsion through a model membrane

Copper can be found in many cosmetic formulations, mainly as complexes with peptides, hydroxyacids or amino acids. The main reason that the usage of this element in this context is still increasing is its beneficial biochemical activity, although the mechanism that enables its complexes to permeate through skin barriers is largely unknown. The ability of copper complexes with amino acids to penetrate through the stratum corneum and participate in copper ion transport processes is key to their cosmetic and pharmaceutical activities. The penetration process was studied in vitro in a model system, a Franz diffusion cell with a liposome membrane, where a liquid crystalline system with physicochemical properties similar to those of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum was used to model the skin barrier. The influences of various ligands on the model membrane migration rate of copper ions was studied, and the results highlighted the crucial roles of metal ion complex structure and stability in this process.     

Pothomorphe umbellata extract prevents alpha-tocopherol depletion after UV-irradiation

In this work we evaluated the influence of topical application of P. umbellata root extract gel, containing 0.1% of 4-nerolidylcathecol, on the antioxidant network in UV-induced oxidative damage in hairless mouse skin. The UV-irradiation had no influence on ascorbic acid levels or on the antioxidant enzyme (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione reductase and glutathione peroxidase) activities, but topical P. umbellata treatment protected alpha-tocopherol from being depleted after UV-irradiation. alpha-Tocopherol concentration decreased significantly (approximately 40%, P < 0.01) in the irradiated control groups, whereas in the P. umbellata-treated group, alpha-tocopherol was totally preserved (approximately 100%, P > 0.05). These data demonstrate that P. umbellata may be successfully used as a topical photoprotective agent.