In vitro solar protection factor,antioxidant activity,and stability of a topical formulation containing Benitaka grape (Vitis vinifera L.) peel extract

Abstract

A flavonoid enriched extract (FE) was obtained from grape peels, and in vitro SPF, antioxidant activity, and effects on cell viability of this extract were tested with the intent to develop a cosmetic product. A formulation was developed with the FE, and the stability of this mixture was evaluated in terms of pH, density, viscosity, and SPF (90-days). FE showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes and an in vitro SPF of 18.56 (UV-spectrophotometry). Further, FE showed a UVA protection factor of 3.17?±?0.2, a critical wavelength of 318.0?±?0.1 and a UVA/UVB of 0.9. Antioxidant activity assays resulted in 92.08% and 86.85% of activity against DPPH and ABTS (IC₅₀ = 296.90?±?1.2?µg/mL and 643.13?±?0.9?µg/mL), respectively. Finally, SPF of formulation with FE was 12.45. Results from the in vitro SPF and product stability tests (especially storage under refrigeration), indicate that FE is a promising compound for use as an innovative sunscreen formulation.     

A Comparative Study between Conventional and Advanced Extraction Techniques: Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Properties of Plant Extracts

This study aimed to compare the influence of extraction methods on the pharmaceutical and cosmetic properties of medicinal and aromatic plants (MAPs). For this purpose, the dried plant materials were extracted using advanced (microwave (MAE), ultrasonic (UAE), and homogenizer (HAE) assisted extractions) and conventional techniques (maceration, percolation, decoction, infusion, and Soxhlet). The tyrosinase, elastase, α-amylase, butyryl, and acetylcholinesterase inhibition were tested by using L-3,4 dihydroxy-phenylalanine, N-Succinyl-Ala-Ala-p-nitroanilide, butyryl, and acetylcholine as respective substrates. Antioxidant activities were studied by ABTS, DPPH, and FRAP. In terms of extraction yield, advanced extraction techniques showed the highest values (MAE > UAE > HAE). Chemical profiles were dependent on the phenolic compounds tested, whereas the antioxidant activities were always higher, mainly in infusion and decoction as a conventional technique. In relation to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic properties, the highest inhibitory activities against α-amylase and acetylcholinesterase were observed for Soxhlet and macerated extracts, whereas the highest activity against tyrosinase was obtained with MAE > maceration > Soxhlet. Elastase and butyrylcholinesterase inhibitory activities were in the order of Soxhlet > maceration > percolation, with no activities recorded for the other tested methods. In conclusion, advanced methods afford an extract with high yield, while conventional methods might be an adequate approach for minimal changes in the biological properties of the extract.     

Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction and Characterization of Polyphenols from Apple Pomace,Functional Ingredients for Beef Burger Fortification

Currently, there is an increasing interest to valorise agri-food waste containing bioactive compounds with potential health benefits. In this paper, the recovery of functional molecules from apple pomace, the most abundant by-product of the apple processing industry, was carried out by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) on fresh and freeze-dried samples. UAE extract, obtained by double extraction of freeze-dried apple pomace, was subjected to chromatographic and spectrophotometric characterization. It showed good levels of total phenol content, high antioxidant activity, and interesting antioxidant compounds (quercetin derivatives, chlorogenic acid, phloridzin). Subsequently, freeze-dried apple pomace, containing 40.19% of dietary fibre, was used as a fortifying agent for beef burgers (4% and 8%). The results concerning colour and sensory analysis of the fortified products were graded even better than the control (0%). The improved fibre and phenol content, together with the neutral flavour, represent the most interesting characteristics of fortified burgers. The results confirm that UAE was a successful technique for extracting phenol compounds and that the addition of apple pomace represents a valid approach to increase the health properties and palatability of beef burgers, including for consumers who do not like meat.     

Photoprotective activity of propolis

The purpose of this study was to determine the photoprotective properties of propolis. The sun protection factor (SPF) of ethanol extract of propolis was evaluated by an in vitro method, using homosalate as control. This determination is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 15 mg of O/W emulsion containing propolis at various concentrations were applied on roughened Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and the transmission measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. The results may justify their use as a natural sunscreen agent.     

Green Extraction of Antioxidant Flavonoids from Pigeon Pea (Cajanus cajan (L.) Millsp.) Seeds and Its Antioxidant Potentials Using Ultrasound-Assisted Methodology

Pigeon pea is an important pea species in the Fabaceae family that has long been used for food, cosmetic, and other phytopharmaceutical applications. Its seed is reported as a rich source of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory flavonoids, especially isoflavones, i.e., cajanin, cajanol, daidzein, and genistein. In today’s era of green chemistry and green cosmetic development, the development and optimization of extraction techniques is increasing employed by the industrial sectors to provide environmentally friendly products for their customers. Surprisingly, there is no research report on improving the extraction of these isoflavonoids from pigeon pea seeds. In this present study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (USAE) methodology, which is a green extraction that provides a shorter extraction time and consumes less solvent, was optimized and compared with the conventional methods. The multivariate strategy, the Behnken–Box design (BBD) combined with response surface methodology, was employed to determine the best extraction conditions for this USAE utilizing ethanol as green solvent. Not only in vitro but also cellular antioxidant activities were evaluated using different assays and approaches. The results indicated that USAE provided a substantial gain of ca 70% in the (iso)flavonoids extracted and the biological antioxidant activities were preserved, compared to the conventional method. The best extraction conditions were 39.19 min with a frequency of 29.96 kHz and 63.81% (v/v) aqueous ethanol. Both the antioxidant and anti-aging potentials of the extract were obtained under optimal USAE at a cellular level using yeast as a model, resulting in lower levels of malondialdehyde. These results demonstrated that the extract can act as an effective activator of the cell longevity protein (SIR2/SIRT1) and cell membrane protector against oxidative stress. This finding supports the potential of pigeon pea seeds and USAE methodology to gain potential antioxidant and anti-aging (iso)flavonoids-rich sources for the cosmetic and phytopharmaceutical sectors.     

Dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction based on the solidification of a floating organic droplet for simultaneous analysis of diethofencarb and pyrimethanil in apple pulp and peel

A method for analysis of diethofencarb and pyrimethanil in apple pulp and peel was developed by using dispersive liquid–liquid microextraction based on solidification of a floating organic droplet (DLLME-SFO) and high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD). Acetonitrile was used as the solvent to extract the two fungicides from apple pulp and peel, assisted by microwave irradiation. When the extraction process was finished, the target analytes in the extraction solvent were rapidly transferred from the acetonitrile extract to another extraction solvent (1-undecanol) by using DLLME-SFO. Because of the lower density of 1-undecanol than that of water, the finely dispersed droplets of 1-undecanol collected on the top of aqueous sample and solidified at low temperature. Meanwhile, the tiny particles of apple cooled and precipitated. Recovery was tested for a concentration of 8 μg kg⁻¹. Recovery of diethofencarb and pyrimethanil from apple pulp and peel was in the range 83.5–101.3%. The repeatability of the method, expressed as relative standard deviation, varied between 4.8 and 8.3% (n = 6). Detection limits of the method for apple pulp and peel varied from 1.2–1.6 μg kg⁻¹ for the two fungicides. Compared with conventional sample preparation, the method has the advantage of rapid speed and simple operation, and has high enrichment factors and low consumption of organic solvent.     

Determination of daminozide in apples and apple leaves by liquid chromatography--mass spectrometry

A straightforward and efficient method was developed for the determination of intact daminozide in apples and apple leaves. After extraction with methanol and a clean-up step using a graphitized carbon cartridge, the extract was analysed by ion-trap liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS-MS) using atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation in the positive ion mode. Recoveries for apple were 98-102% with a R.S.D. < or = 11% (n = 6) and for leaves were 112-116% with a R.S.D. < or = 18% (n = 6). The limits of detection were 0.008 and 0.02 mg/kg for apples and leaves, respectively.     

In vitro antioxidant activity of extracts of Sybaris liquorice roots from Southern Italy

The antioxidant properties of extracts of Sybaris liquorice roots have been assessed using 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay. The extracts, obtained by Soxhlet extraction (Et(2)O, AcOEt, MeOH and BuOH) of the yellow (inner part) and brown (cortex) root powders ensuing from decortication of the raw dry roots, followed by separation and powderisation, were analysed for their scavenging activity by evaluating the colourimetric decrease in the absorbance of DPPH. The highest antioxidant activity (98.39?±?0.56%) was observed in the case of the Et(2)O extract of the brown powder, at a concentration of 3.33?mg?mL(-1). Moreover, the total phenolic content of the extracts was determined using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent and expressed as milligram gallic acid equivalent per gram of dry extract. Our results show that the Et(2)O extract of the liquorice root cortex could be used as an attractive natural source of antioxidant additives for food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications.     

Performance Evaluation of Nickel Separation and Extraction Process from Simulated Spent Cr/Ni Electroplating Bath Solutions by ELM Process Using LIX63 and PC88A

The study was conducted to investigate synergistic extraction of nickel from simulated spent Cr–Ni electroplating bath solutions by emulsion liquid membrane (ELM) process using 5,8-diethyl-7-hydroxydodecan-6-one oxime (LIX 63) and 2-ethylhexylphosphonic acid mono-2-ethylhexyl ester (PC88A) as carriers. The importance of ELM composition and the properties of simulated spent electroplating bath solution have been optimized to synergistically extract nickel. The important parameters affecting the nickel extraction efficiency and ELM stability, such as acid concentration, stripping solution type and concentration, extractant concentration, surfactant concentration, and phase ratio, were experimentally studied. Along with obtained results, higher than 99% of nickel was selectively extracted within 30 minutes from simulated electroplating bath solutions that their metal concentrations was in the range of 100–500 mg/L. in the optimum conditions. The higher separation factor value of nickel over chromium (β_Ni/Cr) was obtained as 898. As a result, the nickel extraction kinetic was found to depend on PC88A, since extraction mechanism of PC88A is slower than that of LIX63. So, the combined use of LIX63 and PC88A improved the selective extraction of nickel in that process.     

Liquid chromatographic method for determination of patulin in clear and cloudy apple juices and apple puree: collaborative study

A collaborative trial was conducted to validate the effectiveness of a liquid chromatographic (LC) procedure for determination of patulin in both clear and cloudy apple juices and apple puree. The test portion of clear apple juice was directly extracted with ethyl acetate; cloudy apple juice and apple puree were treated with pectinase enzyme before extraction. After back-extraction into sodium carbonate to remove interfering acidic compounds, the extract was dried and concentrated, and patulin was determined by LC with UV detection. Clear and cloudy apple juices, apple puree test samples naturally contaminated with patulin, and blank test samples for spiking with patulin were sent to 14 collaborators in 12 different European countries. Test portions of each of the 3 test sample types were spiked with patulin at 75 ng/g. Recoveries of patulin ranged from 80 to 92%. Based on the results for spiked test samples (blind pairs) and naturally contaminated test samples (blind pairs at 3 levels), the relative standard deviations for repeatability (RSDr) and reproducibility (RSDR) ranged from 8 to 35% and 11 to 36%, respectively. Although HORRAT values of <1.4 were obtained for all 3 matrixes at patulin levels ranging from 26 to 121 ng/g, better performance values (RSDr values 6-10% and RSDR values 11-25%) were obtained for clear and cloudy apple juice spiked above 50 ng/g, which is either the statutory limit or the advisory level for patulin contamination in apple juices in many countries.     

Application of spontaneous suction phase-dispersing (SSPD) extractors in the extraction of penicillin G

The extraction of penicillin G from an aqueous solution with butylacetate (BA) and tributyl phosphate (TBP) as extractants was carried out at pH 4 with spontaneous suction phase-dispersing (SSPD) extractors under various operating conditions. Four kinds of SSPD extractors were tested with results compared to those obtained by using an extractor with mechanical stirrers. Rotation speed and different extraction systems were found to influence the penicillin recovery and the stability of emulsion formed during extraction. The percentage of extraction under optimum conditions was 91% without formation of emulsion. The laser particle size measurement instrument combined with SSPD can be used to measure the emulsion droplet size in situ.     

Antioxidant capacity and antibacterial activity from Annona cherimola phytochemicals by ultrasound-assisted extraction and its comparison to conventional methods

In recent years, the food, pharmacy, and cosmetic industries have focused on the search of natural compounds with antimicrobial and antioxidant properties; commonly, these compounds are obtained from Kingdom plantae. The aim of the present work is comparing antibacterial and antioxidant capacity of Annona cherimola Mill leaves, using different extraction methods. The ultrasound assisted extraction technique (UAE) was compared with conventional techniques: Soxhlet and maceration. Water and ethanol were used as solvents for leaves extractions performed with these three methods. The main acetogenins reported in Annona cherimola Mill and Annona muricata L. species were simulated using the functional hybrid B3LYP and to confirm its presence, analysis of the compound composition was performed using FT-IR, UV–Vis and HPLC. Total phenolics (TP) and flavonoids (TF) were determined by spectroscopy techniques and novel Differential Pulse Voltammetry (DPV) electrochemical technique. Total Antioxidant Capacity (TAC) of the extracts was measured, using the DPPH, FRAP and CUPRAC techniques. The highest antioxidant content was found in the Soxhlet water extracts; even so, the UAE technique presented an attractive alternative due to considerable reduction in extraction time, which was greater than 99%, and possible selectivity in compounds extraction. Finally, antibacterial activity of the extracts was evaluated, obtaining the best results against gram-positive bacteria using UAE water extract. In this way, the UAE technique presents an excellent extraction option due to the considerable reduction in time and energy, as well as the increase in antibacterial activity.     

Alcohol‐based deep eutectic solvent as a carrier of SiO2@Fe3O4 for the development of magnetic dispersive micro‐solid‐phase extraction method: Application for the preconcentration and determination of morin in apple and grape juices,diluted and acidic extract of dried onion and green tea infusion samples

In this study, a hydrophilic deep eutectic solvent was synthesized as a carrier and disperser of magnetic nanoparticles based on ferrofluid and used to develop the dispersive micro‐solid‐phase extraction method. Ethylene glycol/tetramethylammonium chloride deep eutectic solvent and SiO₂@Fe₃O₄ were used to provide the highly stable ferrofluid with strong sorbing properties without any additional stabilizer, which was employed to extract and determine morin in apple and grape juices, diluted and acidic extract of dried onion, and green tea infusion samples. The dispersibility of SiO₂@Fe₃O₄ and prevention of its aggregation in the sample solution were improved using the deep eutectic solvent‐based ferrofluid. Also, it facilitated the fast injection of sorbent into the sample solution that led to an increase of the contact surface between the sorbent and analyte, and reduction of the extraction time and consumption of the sorbent. The important experimental parameters influencing the extraction efficiency of morin were examined. Under the optimal conditions, a linear calibration curve was obtained in the range of 3–500 µg/L with a determination coefficient of 0.9994. The limits of detection and quantification were of 0.91 and 2.98 µg/L, respectively. While an extraction recovery of 97.7% with relative standard deviation of 3.8% (interday) was obtained via three replicated measurements on a 30 µg/L of morin standard solution, the enrichment factor was 39.1. Finally, this method was successfully used to extract and preconcentrate morin in various samples, followed with their determination by high‐performance liquid chromatography with ultraviolet detection.     

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.     

Simultaneous determination of 5-hydroxymethylfurfural and patulin in apple juice by reversed-phase liquid chromatography.

A rapid, simple and economical method was described for the simultaneous determination of 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) and patulin in apple juice. The sample was extracted with ethyl acetate and the extract was then cleaned up by extraction with a sodium carbonate solution. Then HMF and patulin were determined by reversed-phase liquid chromatography using a C18 column and a photodiode array detector. HMF and patulin could be completely resolved by using the mixture water-acetonitrile (99:1, v/v) as the mobile phase with a flow rate of 1.0 ml/min. Mean recoveries of HMF ranged from 86% to 100% with an overall mean of 94%, that of patulin ranged from 94% to 125% with an overall mean of 103%, for different spiking levels. The limits of detection for HMF and patulin in apple juice were found to be < 0.01 mg/l and < 5 micrograms/l, respectively.     

Determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis

An effective low cost sample preparation methodology for the determination of regulated fragrance allergens in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics has been developed applying, for the first time, matrix solid-phase dispersion (MSPD) to this kind of analytes and samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as a factorial multifactor experimental design. These studies were carried out using real cosmetic samples. In the final conditions, 0.5 of sample, previously mixed with 1g of anhydrous Na(2)SO(4), were blended with 2g of dispersive sorbent (Florisil), and the MSPD column was eluted with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). The extract was then analyzed by GC-MS without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits (LODs) were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. Quantitative recoveries (>75%) were obtained and RSD values were lower than 10% in all cases. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. In addition, the MSPD method can be implemented in any laboratory at low cost since it does not require special equipment. Finally, a wide variety of cosmetic products were analyzed. All the samples contained several of the target cosmetic ingredients, with and average number of seven. The total fragrance allergen content was in general quite high, even in baby care products, with values close to or up to 1%, for several samples, although the actual European Cosmetic Regulation was fulfilled.     

Physical Stability and the Droplet Distribution of Rice Oil–in–Water Emulsion

The objective of the current study was to evaluate long-term stability of emulsions with rice oil by assessing their physical properties. For this purpose, six emulsions were prepared, their stability was examined empirically, and the most correctly formulated emulsion composition was determined using a computer simulation. Variable parameters (oil and thickener content) were indicated with optimization software based on Kleeman's method. Synthesized emulsions were studied by numerous techniques involving determination of particle size and distribution of emulsion, optical microscopy, viscosity, and novelty analysis—Turbiscan test.

The emulsion containing 50 g of oil and 1.2 g of thickener had the highest stability. Empirically determined parameters proved to be consistent with the results obtained using the computer software. The computer simulation showed that the most stable emulsion should contain from 35.93 to 50 g of oil and 0.94 to 1.19 g of thickener. The computer software based on Kleeman's method proved to be useful for fast optimization of the composition and providing parameters of stable emulsion systems. Forming emulsions based on rice oil is a chance to introduce a new, interesting representative of functional food as well as a cosmetic product.     

Preparation of doxycycline‐imprinted magnetic microspheres by inverse‐emulsion suspension polymerization for magnetic dispersion extraction of tetracyclines from milk samples

A magnetic dispersion extraction method was developed based on a molecularly imprinted magnetic microsphere (MIMM) for the selective clean‐up and enrichment of tetracycline antibiotics from milk samples. The MIMMs were prepared by inverse‐emulsion suspension polymerization, using doxycycline, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, acrylamide, methacrylic acid, and surface‐modified Fe₃O₄ as a template molecule, crosslinker, functional monomer, and magnetic component, respectively. Synthesis and extraction conditions were optimized for obtaining excellent affinity and high selectivity. The magnetism, covering amount, and selectivity of the magnetic microspheres were characterized by a vibrating sample magnetometer, thermogravimetric analysis, and a competitive recognition experiment. The MIMMs were applied to separate tetracycline antibiotics from milk samples by magnetic dispersion extraction, and an enrichment factor of 9.28 and a good sample clean‐up were obtained. The average recoveries of four tetracycline antibiotics were obtained in the range of 74.5–93.8% with a precision of 1.2–5.2%. The LODs and LOQs of the proposed method were in the range of 7.4–19.4 and 24.7–64.7 μg/kg, respectively. The results indicated that magnetic dispersion extraction using MIMMs is a powerful tool for food‐sample pretreatment with high selectivity and a simplified procedure.     

Distribution of sapogenins in morphological Medicago sativa L. parts: Comparison of various extraction techniques

Saponins in plant extracts were indirectly determined by estimation of the content of sapogenins. The first step of determination is extraction with high efficiency. One conventional extraction technique (maceration) and two modern ones (accelerated solvent extraction and supercritical fluid extraction) were compared. Methanol and ethanol were used as solvents or co‐solvents. The results were supported by statistical analysis. Saponins were extracted from leaves, roots, and sprouts of Medicago sativa. Acid hydrolysis, purification, and determination by high‐performance liquid chromatography with evaporative light scattering detector were used. The content of sapogenins was the highest in the roots. Smaller amounts of sapogenins were found in sprouts and the smallest ones in leaves. The main ingredient was medicagenic acid with mean concentration of 621.8 µg/g in roots, 456.7 µg/g in sprouts, and 471.3 µg/g in leaf extract. The highest content of sapogenins in extract was obtained after maceration with methanol; however, this method is nonselective in relation to biologically active compounds. Due to the possibility of using the obtained extracts with sapogenins in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry, the selection of extraction techniques and solvents is a very important aspect. Additionally, the chosen technique should be considered eco‐friendly and consistent with the assumptions of “green chemistry.”     

Metabolite profiling on apple volatile content based on solid phase microextraction and gas-chromatography time of flight mass spectrometry

A headspace SPME GC-TOF-MS method was developed for the acquisition of metabolite profiles of apple volatiles. As a first step, an experimental design was applied to find out the most appropriate conditions for the extraction of apple volatile compounds by SPME. The selected SPME method was applied in profiling of four different apple varieties by GC-EI-TOF-MS. Full scan GC-MS data were processed by MarkerLynx software for peak picking, normalisation, alignment and feature extraction. Advanced chemometric/statistical techniques (PCA and PLS-DA) were used to explore data and extract useful information. Characteristic markers of each variety were successively identified using the NIST library thus providing useful information for variety classification. The developed HS-SPME sampling method is fully automated and proved useful in obtaining the fingerprint of the volatile content of the fruit. The described analytical protocol can aid in further studies of the apple metabolome.