Generation of free-surface gravity waves by an unsteady Stokeslet

The interaction of unsteady Stokeslets with the free surface of an initially quiescent incompressible fluid of infinite depth is investigated analytically for two- and three-dimensional cases. The disturbed flows are generated by an unsteady singular force moving perpendicularly downwards away from the surface. The analysis is based on the assumption that the motion satisfies the linearized unsteady Navier–Stokes equations with linear kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions. Firstly, the asymptotic representation for the transient free-surface waves due to an instantaneous Stokeslet is derived for a large time with a fixed distance-to-time ratio. As is well known, the corresponding inviscid waves predicted by the potential theory do not decay to zero as the time goes to infinity. In the present study, the transient waves predicted by the viscous theory eventually vanish due to the presence of viscosity, which is consistent with reality from the physical point of view. Secondly, the asymptotic solutions are obtained for the unsteady free-surface waves due to a harmonically oscillating Stokeslet. It is found that the unsteady waves can be decomposed into steady-state and transient responses. The steady state can be attained as time approaches infinity. It is shown that the viscosity of the fluid plays an important role in the evolution of the singularity-induced waves.     

Topology of elementary waves for mixed-type systems of conservation laws

We construct explicitly the fundamental wave manifold for systems of two conservation laws with quadratic flux functions. We describe the shock foliation for this manifold, as well as the singular set of the foliation. We subdivide the manifold into regions where the shock curves form trivial foliations. Sonic surfaces are identified as well. We establish the stability of shock curves underC ³ perturbations of the flux functions in the Whitney topology.In memoriam of Jean Martinet.     

The role of buoyancy–frequency oscillations in the generation of mountain gravity waves

There is evidence from balloon measurements that atmospheric buoyancy–frequency profiles, apart from a sharp increase (roughly by a factor of two) at the tropopause, often feature appreciable oscillations (typical wavelength 1–2 km) with altitude. It is argued here that such short-scale oscillatory variations of the background buoyancy frequency, which usually are ignored in theoretical models, can have a profound effect on the generation of mountain waves owing to a resonance mechanism that comes into play at certain wind speeds depending on the dominant oscillation wavelength. A simple linear model assuming small sinusoidal buoyancy–frequency oscillations suggests, and numerical solutions of the Euler equations for more realistic flow conditions confirm, that under resonant conditions the induced gravity-wave activity is significantly increased above and upstream of the mountain, similarly to resonant flow of finite depth over topography.      

Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over variable depth, with applications to tsunamis

We present a theory of very long waves propagating on the surface of water. The waves evolve slowly, both on the scale ε (weak nonlinearity), and on the scale, σ, of the depth variation. In our model, dispersion does not affect the evolution of the wave even over the large distances that tsunamis may travel. We allow a distribution of vorticity, in addition to variable depth. Our solution is not valid for depth=O(ε^4/5); the equations here are expressed in terms of the single parameter ε^2/5σ and matched to the solution in deep water. For a slow depth variation of the background state (consistent with our model), we prove that a constant-vorticity solution exists, from deep water to shoreline, and that regions of isolated vorticity can also exist, for appropriate bottom profiles. We describe how the wave properties are modified by the presence of vorticity. Some graphical examples of our various solutions are presented.     

Numerical simulations of inviscid and viscous free‐surface flows with application to nonlinear water waves

The purpose of the present study is to establish a numerical model appropriate for solving inviscid/viscous free‐surface flows related to nonlinear water wave propagation. The viscous model presented herein is based on the Navier–Stokes equations, and the free‐surface is calculated through an arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian streamfunction‐vorticity formulation. The streamfunction field is governed by the Poisson equation, and the vorticity is obtained on the basis of the vorticity transport equation. For computing the inviscid flow the Laplace streamfunction equation is used. These equations together with the respective (appropriate) fully nonlinear free‐surface boundary conditions are solved using a finite difference method. To demonstrate the model feasibility, in the present study we first simulate collision processes of two solitary waves of different amplitudes, and compute the phenomenon of overtaking of such solitary waves. The developed model is subsequently applied to calculate (both inviscid and the viscous) flow field, as induced by passing of a solitary wave over submerged rectangular structures and rigid ripple beds. Our study provides a reasonably good understanding of the behavior of (inviscid/viscous) free‐surface flows, within the framework of streamfunction‐vorticity formulation. The successful simulation of the above‐mentioned test cases seems to suggest that the arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian/streamfunction‐vorticity formulation is a potentially powerful approach, capable of effectively solving the fully nonlinear inviscid/viscous free‐surface flow interactions. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Efficient computation of steady solitary gravity waves

An efficient numerical method to compute solitary wave solutions to the free surface Euler equations is reported. It is based on the conformal mapping technique combined with an efficient Fourier pseudo-spectral method. The resulting nonlinear equation is solved via the Petviashvili iterative scheme. The computational results are compared to some existing approaches, such as Tanaka’s method and Fenton’s high-order asymptotic expansion. Several important integral quantities are computed for a large range of amplitudes. The integral representation of the velocity and acceleration fields in the bulk of the fluid is also provided.     

Three-dimensional waves on the surface of a viscous fluid

The study of the effect of viscosity on the propagation of surface waves has traditionally been confined to the consideration of plane (two-dimensional) waves [1, 2]. So far the effect associated with taking the transverse modulation of the wave profile into account have not been studied. In what follows, a solution is constructed and analyzed for linear three-dimensional periodic waves in an infinitely deep fluid. Their distinguishing property is the presence of a vorticity in the direction of propagation. An expression for the average (over the wavelength) velocity of horizontal particle drift is found in the quadratic approximation in the small wave steepness.     

The stability of finite-amplitude interfacial solitary waves

The linear stability of finite-amplitude interfacial gravity solitary waves propagating in a two-layer fluid is investigated analytically focusing on the occurrence of an exchange of stability. We make an asymptotic analysis for small growth rates of infinitesimal disturbances, and explicitly obtain their growth rates near an exchange of stability. The result indicates that an exchange of stability occurs at every stationary value of the total energy of the solitary waves. It also gives us information whether the number of growing modes increases or decreases after experiencing the exchange of stability. We apply these analytical results to specific interfacial solitary waves, and find various features on their stability that are not seen in the case of surface solitary waves.     

Effect of viscosity on dispersion of capillary-gravity waves

The effect of viscosity on dispersion of capillary-gravity waves becomes significant when the attenuation coefficient is greater than about 2.5% of the wave number. For low viscosity fluids such as water this condition is met at frequencies greater than about 5 kHz in which case direct measurement of wavelength is difficult. For higher viscosity fluids the effect appears at much lower frequencies but direct measurement of wavelength becomes difficult since viscosity causes severe attenuation of surface waves. We have overcome the measurement difficulties by using a new miniature laser interferometer, which directly measures the wavelength of standing capillary waves with the requisite precision to yield reliable dispersion data for viscous fluids. Here we review the effect of viscosity on the dispersion relation and present new experimental data on dispersion of capillary waves in several water-glycerol mixtures. Our data provides direct experimental verification of the theoretical analysis.     

The art of shock waves and their flowfields

The visualization of compressible flows is a mature science that has significantly contributed to many advances in fluid mechanics. Numerous visualization records have been generated, many of which are not only noteworthy for their physical content, but also for their aesthetic appeal. Images of shock waves and their flowfields, primarily obtained with density-sensitive visualization methods, not only provide valuable information about the physical mechanisms of flows, but often have the qualities of works of art. This paper reviews briefly the role of these visualizations in science and their possible position in an art environment, while trying to establish a little-explored link between the elements of compressible fluid dynamics and some features found in various works of art.      

Modified shallow water equations which admit the propagation of discontinuous waves over a dry bed

A method for modeling the propagation of discontinuous waves over a dry bed using the first approximation of shallow water theory is proposed. The method is based on a modified conservation law of total momentum that takes into account the concentrated momentum losses due to the formation of local turbulent vortex structures in the fluid surface layer at a discontinuous-wave front. A quantitative estimate of these losses is obtained by deriving the shallow water equations from the Navier-Stokes equations with allowance for viscosity, which has a rapidly increasing effect in the turbulent flow regions described by discontinuous waves. The stability of the discontinuous waves admitted by the modified system of conservation laws of shallow water theory is examined. As an example, a comparative analysis is performed of the solutions of the dam-break problem obtained for the classical and modified shallow water models. __________ Translated from Prikladnaya Mekhanika i Tekhnicheskaya Fizika, Vol. 48, No. 6, pp. 22–43, November–December, 2007     

Impact of mass lumping on gravity and Rossby waves in 2D finite‐element shallow‐water models

The goal of this study is to evaluate the effect of mass lumping on the dispersion properties of four finite‐element velocity/surface‐elevation pairs that are used to approximate the linear shallow‐water equations. For each pair, the dispersion relation, obtained using the mass lumping technique, is computed and analysed for both gravity and Rossby waves. The dispersion relations are compared with those obtained for the consistent schemes (without lumping) and the continuous case. The P₀?P₁, RT₀ and P?P₁ pairs are shown to preserve good dispersive properties when the mass matrix is lumped. Test problems to simulate fast gravity and slow Rossby waves are in good agreement with the analytical results. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Dispersion of linear gravity waves on a viscoelastic fluid in an horizontal canal

A characteristic equation is derived that describes the spatial decay of linear surface gravity waves on Maxwell fluids. Except at small frequencies, the derived dispersion relation is different from the temporal decay dispersion relation which is normally studied within fluid mechanics. The implications for waves on viscous Newtonian fluids using the two different dispersion relations is briefly discussed. The wave number is measured experimentally as function of the frequency in a horizontal canal. Seven Newtonian fluids and four viscoelastic liquids with constant viscosity have been used in the experiments. The spatial decay theory for Newtonian fluids fits well to the experimental data. The model and experiments are used to determine limits for the Maxwell fluid time numbers for the four viscoelastic liquids. As a result of low viscosity it was not possible within this study to obtain these time numbers from oscillatory experiments. Therefore, a comparison of surface gravity wave experiments with theory is applicable as a method to evaluate memory times of low viscosity viscoelastic fluids.     

The attenuation of monochromatic surface waves due to the presence of an inextensible cover

The attenuation of surface gravity waves is an important process associated with air–sea and wave–current interactions. Here we investigate experimentally the attenuation of monochromatic surface gravity waves due to the presence of various surface covers. The surface covers are fixed in space such that they do not advect with the wave motion and are selected such that the bending modulus is negligible for the wave frequencies used in the experiment in order to minimize any flexural effects. Wave attenuation rates are found to be independent of wave steepness and the type of cover used over the tested parameter range. Results are consistent with the theoretical attenuation rate for an inextensible surface cover.     

Gravity waves and Rayleigh Taylor instability on a Jeffrey-fluid

A theory for linear surface gravity waves on a semi-infinite layer of viscoelastic fluid described by a Jeffrey model is presented. Results are given for the decay rate and the phase velocity as a function of the parameters of the fluid: a nondimensional time constant, and a ratio of the retardation time to the relaxation time. At small wave numbers the behavior is Newtonian. In other cases depending on the nondimensional parameters, a number of possible other behaviors exist. The influence of the non-dimensional parameters on the growth rate of Rayleigh-Taylor instability is also discussed.     

粘性金属中的正激波稳定性问题

G.H.Miller等把高压金属中的粘性激波作为强间断面处理,解析推论出:在大粘性系数条件下小扰动激波是不稳定的,物质粘性是导致失稳的因素。本文中针对平面正激波,认为高压金属中的粘性激波的物理量是连续变化的,利用线性稳定性理论,用数值解推论出:在有粘性条件下小扰动激波都是稳定的,物质粘性是致稳的因素。指出G.H.Miller等获得错误结论的原因在于:从无粘流动解推出的小扰动边界条件导致粘性激波小扰动增长。给出实验确定的小扰动速度梯度的边界条件,这样既可以把粘性正激波作为强间断面处理,也能够保证粘性正激波的稳定性。     

Modeling of long nonlinear waves on the interface in a horizontal two-layer viscous channel flow

The dynamics of two-dimensional waves of small but finite amplitude are theoretically studied for the case of a two-layer system bounded by a horizontal top and bottom. It is shown that for relatively large steady-state flow velocities and at certain fluid depth ratios the vertical velocity profile is nonlinear. An evolutionary equation governing the fluid interface disturbances and allowing for the long-wave contributions of the layer inertia and surface tension, the weak nonlinearity of the waves, and the unsteady friction on all the boundaries of the system is derived. Steady-state solutions of the cnoidal and solitary wave type for the disturbed flow are determined without regard for dissipation losses. It is found that the magnitude and the direction of the flow can alter not only the lengths of the waves but also their polarity.__________Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Academii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 1, 2005, pp. 143–158. Original Russian Text Copyright © 2005 by Arkhipov and Khabakhpashev.