Existence and uniqueness of a solution to a problem of steady composite waves on the surface of a liquid flowing over a wavy bottom

Composite waves on the surface of the stationary flow of a heavy ideal incompressible liquid are steady forced waves of finite amplitude which do not disappear when the pressure on the free surface becomes constant but rather are transformed into free nonlinear waves [1]. It will be shown that such waves correspond to the case of nonlinear resonance, and mathematically to the bifurcation of the solution of the fundamental integral equation describing these waves. In [2], a study is made of the problem of composite waves in a flow of finite depth generated by a variable pressure with periodic distribution along the surface of the flow. In [3], such waves are considered for a flow with a wavy bottom. In this case, composite waves are defined as steady forced waves of finite amplitude that, when the pressure becomes constant and the bottom is straightened, do not disappear but are transformed into free nonlinear waves over a flat horizontal bottom. However, an existence and uniqueness theorem was not proved for this case. The aim of the present paper is to fill this gap and investigate the conditions under which such waves can arise.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 4, pp. 88–98, July–August, 1980.     

Turbulent mass transport and attenuation in Stokes waves

The motion of turbulent Stokes waves on a finite constant depth fluid with a rough bed is considered. First and second order turbulent boundary layer equations are solved numerically for a range of roughness parameters, and from the solutions are calculated the mass transport velocity profiles and attenuation coefficients. A new mechanism of turbulent mass transport is found which predicts a reduction and reversal of drift velocity in shallow water in agreement with experimental observations under turbulent conditions. This transpires because the second order Stokes wave motion, in a turbulent boundary layer, can directly influence the mass transport velocity by mode coupling interactions between different second order Fourier modes of oscillation. It is also found that the Euler contribution due to the radiation stress of the first order motion is reduced to half of it's corresponding laminar value as a consequence of the velocity squared stress law. The attenuation is found to be of inverse algebraic type with the reciprocal wave height varying linearly with either distance or time. The severe wave height restriction applicable to the Longuet-Higgins [4] solution is shown not to apply to progressive waves on a finite constant depth of fluid. The existence of sand bars on sloping beaches exposed to turbulent waves is predicted.     

变深度浅水域中非定常船波

以Green—Naghdi(G—N)方程为基础，采用波动方程／有限元法计算船舶经过变深度浅水域时非定常波浪特性．把运动船舶对水面的扰动作为移动压强直接加在Green-Naghdi方程里，以描述运动船体和水面的相互作用．以Series60 CB＝0．6船为算例，给出自由面坡高，波浪阻力在船舶经过一个水下凸包时变化规律，并与浅水方程的结果进行了比较．计算结果表明，当船舶经过凸包时，波浪阻力先增加，后减少，并逐渐趋于正常．同时发现，当船速小于临界速度时(Fr＝√gh＜1．0)，G—N方程给出的船后尾波比浅水方程的结果明显，波浪阻力也比浅水方程的结果有所提高，频率散射必须考虑．当船速大于临界速度时(Fr＝√gh＞1．0)，G—N方程的计算结果与浅水方程差别不大，频率散射的影响可以忽略．     

The Benjamin–Lighthill Conjecture for Steady Water Waves (revisited)

The two-dimensional nonlinear problem of steady gravity waves on water of finite depth is considered. The Benjamin–Lighthill conjecture is proved for these waves provided Bernoulli’s constant attains near-critical values. In fact this is a consequence of the following more general results. If Bernoulli’s constant is near-critical, then all corresponding waves have sufficiently small heights and slopes. Moreover, for every near-critical value of Bernoulli’s constant, there exist only the following waves: a solitary wave and the family of Stokes waves having their crests strictly below the crest of this solitary wave; this family is parametrised by wave heights which increase from zero to the height of the solitary wave. All these waves are unique up to horizontal translations. Most of these results were proved in our previous paper (Kozlov and Kuznetsov in Arch Rational Mech Anal 197, 433–488, 2010), in which it was supposed that wave slopes are bounded a priori. Here we show that the latter condition is superfluous by proving the following theorem. If any steady wave has the free-surface profile of a sufficiently small height, then the slope of this wave is also small.     

Improved model for air pressure due to wind on 2D freak waves in finite depth

This paper presents an improved model for evaluating air pressure acting on 2D freak waves in a finite depth due to the presence of winds. This pressure model is developed by analysing the pressure distribution over freak waves using the QALE-FEM/StarCD approach, which combines the quasi arbitrary Lagrangian-Eulerian finite element method (QALE-FEM) with the commercial software package StarCD and has been proven to be sufficiently accurate for such cases according to our previous publication Yan and Ma (2010) [8]. In this model for air pressure, the pressure is decomposed into the components related to the local wave profiles and others. By coupling with the QALE-FEM, the accuracy of the pressure model is tested using various cases. The results show that the pressure distribution estimated using this model is close to that computed by using the QALE-FEM/StarCD approach when there is no significant vortex shedding and wave breaking. The accuracy investigation in predicting the freak wave heights and elevations demonstrates that this pressure model is much better than others in the literature so far used for modelling wind effects on freak waves in finite depth.     

Bound on the Slope of Steady Water Waves with Favorable Vorticity

We consider the angle \({\theta}\) of inclination (with respect to the horizontal) of the profile of a steady two dimensional inviscid symmetric periodic or solitary water wave subject to gravity. Although \({\theta}\) may surpass 30° for some irrotational waves close to the extreme wave, Amick (Arch Ration Mech Anal 99(2):91–114, 1987) proved that for any irrotational wave the angle must be less than 31.15°. Is the situation similar for periodic or solitary waves that are not irrotational? The extreme Gerstner wave has infinite depth, adverse vorticity and vertical cusps (θ = 90°). Moreover, numerical calculations show that even waves of finite depth can overturn if the vorticity is adverse. In this paper, on the other hand, we prove an upper bound of 45° on \({\theta}\) for a large class of waves with favorable vorticity and finite depth. In particular, the vorticity can be any constant with the favorable sign. We also prove a series of general inequalities on the pressure within the fluid, including the fact that any overturning wave must have a pressure sink.     

Gravity-capillary waves in the presence of constant vorticity

Periodic and solitary gravity-capillary waves propagating at a constant velocity at the surface of a fluid of finite depth are considered. The vorticity in the fluid is assumed to be constant. Analytical solutions are presented for waves of small amplitude. For waves of large amplitude, numerical solutions are computed by boundary integral equation methods. The results unify previous findings for irrotational gravity capillary waves and gravity waves with constant vorticity. In particular solitary waves with oscillatory tails and branches of solutions which exist only for waves of large amplitude are found.     

The Benjamin–Lighthill Conjecture for Near-Critical Values of Bernoulli’s Constant

In 1954, Benjamin and Lighthill made a conjecture concerning the classical nonlinear problem of steady gravity waves on water of finite depth. According to this conjecture, a point of some cusped region on the (r, s)-plane (r and s are the non-dimensional Bernoulli’s constant and the flow force, respectively), corresponds to every steady wave motion described by the problem. Conversely, at least one steady flow corresponds to every point of the region. In the present paper, this conjecture is proved for near-critical flows (when r attains values close to one), under the assumption that the slopes of wave profiles are bounded. Another question studied here concerns the uniqueness of solutions, and it is proved that for every near-critical value of r only the following waves do exist: (i) a unique (up to translations) solitary wave; (ii) a family of Stokes waves (unique up to translations), which is parametrised by the distance from the bottom to the wave crest. The latter parameter belongs to the interval bounded below by the depth of the subcritical uniform stream and above by the distance from the bottom to the crest of solitary wave corresponding to the chosen value of r.     

Three-dimensional internal waves in the near zone in the case of a load moving over the surface of a floating elastic plate

The effect of a thin elastic floating plate on the three-dimensional internal waves in the near zone of a moving region of constant pressure is studied with reference to a two-layer model of a liquid of finite depth. The dependence of the spatial distributions of the amplitudes of the wave disturbances due to the internal waves at the plateliquid interface and on the surface of density discontinuity on the rate of displacement of the pressure region and the characteristics of the plate is analyzed.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 1, pp. 85–91, January–February, 1990.     

Flexural gravity wave motion over poroelastic bed

Using Biot’s consolidation theory, effect of poroelastic bed on flexural gravity wave motion is analyzed in both the cases of single-layer and two-layer fluids. The model for the flexural gravity waves is developed using linear water wave theory and small amplitude structural response in finite water depth. The effects of permeability and shear modulus of poroelastic bed and time period on flexural gravity wave motion are studied by analyzing the dispersion relation, phase speed, plate deflection, interface elevation and pressure distribution along water depth. Various results for surface gravity waves are analyzed as special cases. The study reveals that bed permeability retards the hydrodynamic pressure distribution along the water depth significantly compared to shear modulus whilst, floating plate deflection decreases significantly with change in shear modulus compared to permeability of the poroelastic bed. The present study can be generalized to analyze various wave–structure interaction problems over poroelastic bed.     

非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应，并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的 最新研究进展，运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方 程. 假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成：慢变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度大于 表面波的波长；快变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶，但其振幅小于表面 波的振幅. 另外，多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级. 针对水体层和多孔介质层，选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程， 它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性， 并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Waves due to an oscillatory pressure on a stratifield fluid: A uniformly valid asymptotic solution

The three-dimensional axisymmetrical initial-value problem of waves in a two-layered fluid of finite depth by an oscillatory surface pressure is solved. The exact integral solutions for velocity potentials of each layer and wave elevations at the surface and interface are obtained. The uniform asymptotic analysis of the unsteady state of waves is carried out when lower fluid is of infinite depth.     

Dispersion Equation for Water Waves with Vorticity and Stokes Waves on Flows with Counter-Currents

The two-dimensional free-boundary problem of steady periodic waves with vorticity is considered for water of finite depth. We investigate how flows with small-amplitude Stokes waves on the free surface bifurcate from a horizontal parallel shear flow in which counter-currents may be present. Two bifurcation mechanisms are described: one for waves with fixed Bernoulli’s constant, and the other for waves with fixed wavelength. In both cases the corresponding dispersion equations serve for defining wavelengths from which Stokes waves bifurcate. Necessary and sufficient conditions for the existence of roots of these equations are obtained. Two particular vorticity distributions are considered in order to illustrate the general results.     

Computation of wave fields in the ocean around an Isaland

A linear wave equation correct to first order in bed slope is used to calculate the wave field in the sea around an idealized island. This is of circular cylindrical shape and is situated on a paraboloidal shoal in an ocean of constant depth (Figure 1). The sides of the island are assumed fully reflecting. The incident waves are plane and periodic. Wave periods up to 30 min are investigated, and the Coriolis force is neglected. The solution of the wave equation is represented by a finite Fourier series, and a large number of very accurate numerical computations are carried through. The results appear partly in figures showing amplitude and phase angle curves (in some cases extending to the water area of constant depth outside the shoal), partly in figures showing amplitude vs wave period in fixed points. Comparison with solutions to the linearized long-wave equation is made, and the validity range of the corresponding shallow water theory is given. The influence of the shoal is studied by investigating the wave field around an island in an ocean of constant depth. New criteria are given for the applicability of a geometrical optics approach (i. e. refraction). Complete numerical refraction solutions for points at the shoreline (corresponding to many wave orthogonals ending at the point) for shallows water waves, as for the general case, demonstrate the inadequacy of this approach for long-period waves (seismic seawaves: tsunamis). All non-linear effects, including dissipation, are excluded.     

Instability of Waveguides in a Liquid with Surface Effects

Long surface capillary-gravity waves and waves beneath an elastic plate simulating an ice sheet are considered for a liquid of finite depth. These waves are described by a generalized Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation containing higher (as compared with the ordinary Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation) space derivatives. The generalized Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation has waveguide solutions (waveguides) corresponding to traveling waves which are periodic in the direction of propagation and localized in the transverse direction. These waves result from the instability of uniform (carrier) periodic waves with respect to transverse perturbations. The stability of the waveguides with respect to longitudinal longwave perturbations is studied. The behavior of these perturbations depends on the wavenumber of the carrier periodic wave. Three intervals of wavenumbers corresponding to all the possible types of governing equations are considered.     

Free surface waves in equilibrium with a vortex

Finite amplitude solitary waves of uniform depth which interact with a stationary point vortex are considered. Waves both with and without a submerged obstacle are computed. The method of solution is collocation of Bernoulli's equation at a finite number of points on the free surface coupled with equations for equilibrium of a point vortex. The stream function and vortex location are found by computing a conformal map of the flow domain to an infinite strip. For a given obstacle the solutions are parametrized with respect to Froude number and vortex circulation. When no obstacle is present there are two families of solutions, in one of which the amplitude of the wave increases by increasing the circulation, while in the other amplitude increases by decreasing the circulation. Beyond a certain critical Froude number the maximum amplitude wave has a sharp crest with an angle of 120 degrees. Similar behavior is observed for the flow past a submerged obstacle except that there is a critical Froude number below which there is no solution at all.     

多孔材料中声波的传播与演化

采用两相多孔介质的拉格朗日模型来描述一种理论流体充填的多孔弹性固体材料,其中孔隙度的变化满足一个附加的平衡方程。     

Averaged equations and wave jumps describing the propagation of stokes waves with slowly varying parameters

The equations describing the stationary envelope of periodic waves on the surface of a liquid of constant or variable depth are investigated. Methods previously used for investigating the propagation of solitons [1–5] are extended to the case of periodic waves. The equations considered are derived from the cubic Schrödinger equation assuming slow variation of the wave parameters. In using these equations it is sometimes necessary to introduce wave jumps. By analogy with the soliton case a wave jump theory in accordance with which the jumps are interpreted as three-wave resonant interactions is considered. The problems of Mach reflection from a vertical wall and the decay of an arbitrary wave jump are solved. In order to provide a basis for the theory solutions describing the interaction of two waves over a horizontal bottom are investigated. The averaging method [6] is used to derive systems of equations describing the propagation of one or two interacting wave's on the surface of a liquid of constant or variable depth. These systems have steady-state solutions and can be written in divergence form.The author wishes to thank A. G. Kulikovskii and A. A. Barmin for useful discussions.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 5, pp. 113–121, September–October, 1989.     

On uniformly accurate high‐order Boussinesq difference equations for water waves

A new accurate finite‐difference (AFD) numerical method is developed specifically for solving high‐order Boussinesq (HOB) equations. The method solves the water‐wave flow with much higher accuracy compared to the standard finite‐difference (SFD) method for the same computer resources. It is first developed for linear water waves and then for the nonlinear problem. It is presented for a horizontal bottom, but can be used for variable depth as well. The method can be developed for other equations as long as they use Padé approximation, for example extensions of the parabolic equation for acoustic wave problems. Finally, the results of the new method and the SFD method are compared with the accurate solution for nonlinear progressive waves over a horizontal bottom that is found using the stream function theory. The agreement of the AFD to the accurate solution is found to be excellent compared to the SFD solution. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.