Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.     

Recent studies on selected botanical dietary supplement ingredients

The market for botanical dietary supplements in the US has grown rapidly during the last 15 years. Use of newly introduced botanical ingredients has often outpaced an adequate scientific understanding of the ingredients themselves. This may lead to problems, including misidentification, mislabeling, adulteration, and toxicity related to the intended ingredient or one substituted for it. This article reviews recent work with several botanical ingredients (Ephedra, Citrus species, Hoodia gordonii, Teucrium, isoflavones) that illustrates the complexity of the current situation and approaches that contribute to ensuring the quality of botanical ingredients. Recent work with contamination of botanical products by mycotoxins is also reviewed. The need for tools for botanical authentication and methods for reproducible extraction of bioactive constituents is critical. Such tools, and improved analytical techniques for identifying potentially bioactive constituents in fresh plant material and in concentrated extracts and for detection of hazardous contaminants, are expected to improve the overall quality and safety of botanical dietary supplement ingredients.     

Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls – A review

Cosmetic products placed on the market and their ingredients, must be safe under reasonable conditions of use, in accordance to the current legislation. Therefore, regulated and allowed chemical substances must meet the regulatory criteria to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, and adequate analytical methodology is needed to evaluate the degree of compliance. This article reviews the most recent methods (2005–2015) used for the extraction and the analytical determination of the ingredients included in the positive lists of the European Regulation of Cosmetic Products (EC 1223/2009): comprising colorants, preservatives and UV filters. It summarizes the analytical properties of the most relevant analytical methods along with the possibilities of fulfilment of the current regulatory issues. The cosmetic legislation is frequently being updated; consequently, the analytical methodology must be constantly revised and improved to meet safety requirements. The article highlights the most important advances in analytical methodology for cosmetics control, both in relation to the sample pretreatment and extraction and the different instrumental approaches developed to solve this challenge.     

Identification and Quantification,Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics,Pharmacological Activities,and Botanical Preparations of Protopine: A Review

Through pharmacological activity research, an increasing number of natural products and their derivatives are being recognized for their therapeutic value. In recent years, studies have been conducted on Corydalis yanhusuo W.T. Wang, a valuable medicinal herb listed in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia. Protopine, one of its components, has also become a research hotspot. To illustrate the identification, metabolism, and broad pharmacological activity of protopine and the botanical preparations containing it for further scientific studies and clinical applications, an in-depth and detailed review of protopine is required. We collected data on the identification and quantification, metabolism and pharmacokinetics, pharmacological activities, and botanical preparations of protopine from 1986 to 2021 from the PubMed database using “protopine” as a keyword. It has been shown that protopine as an active ingredient of many botanical preparations can be rapidly screened and quantified by a large number of methods (such as the LC-ESI-MS/MS and the TLC/GC-MS), and the possible metabolic pathways of protopine in vivo have been proposed. In addition, protopine possesses a wide range of pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, anti-platelet aggregation, anti-cancer, analgesic, vasodilatory, anticholinesterase, anti-addictive, anticonvulsant, antipathogenic, antioxidant, hepatoprotective, neuroprotective, and cytotoxic and anti-proliferative activities. In this paper, the identification and quantification, metabolism and pharmacokinetics, pharmacological activities, and botanical preparations of protopine are reviewed in detail to lay a foundation for further scientific research and clinical applications of protopine.     

Comparison of Extraction Techniques for the Determination of Volatile Organic Compounds in Liverwort Samples

This article focuses on the comparison of four popular techniques for the extraction of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from liverworts of the Calypogeia azurea species. Since extraction is the most important step in the sample analysis of ingredients present in botanical preparations, their strengths, and weaknesses are discussed. In order to determine the VOCs present in plants, selecting the appropriate one is a key step of the extraction technique. Extraction should ensure the isolation of all components present in the oily bodies of Calypogeia azurea without the formation of any artifacts during treatment. The best extraction method should yield the determined compounds in detectable amounts. Hydrodistillation (HD), applying Deryng apparatus and solid-liquid extraction (SLE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), and headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) were used for volatile extraction. The extracts obtained were analysed by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) to determine the compounds.     

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts.     

LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 μg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.     

Epilobium angustifolium L. as a Potential Herbal Component of Topical Products for Skin Care and Treatment—A Review

Epilobium angustifolium L. (EA) has been used as a topical agent since ancient times. There has been an increasing interest in applying EA as a raw material used topically in recent years. However, in the literature, there are not many reports on the comprehensive application of this plant to skin care and treatment. EA contains many valuable secondary metabolites, which determine antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antiproliferative activity effects. One of the most important active compounds found in EA is oenothein B (OeB), which increases the level of ROS and protects cells from oxidative damage. OeB also influences wound healing and reduces inflammation by strongly inhibiting hyaluronidase enzymes and inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. Other compounds that play a key role in the context of application to the skin are flavonoids, which inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase enzymes, showing anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. While terpenes in EA play an important role in fighting bacterial skin infections, causing, among other things cell membrane, permeability increase as well as the modification of the lipid profiles and the alteration of the adhesion of the pathogen to the animal cells. The available scientific information on the biological potential of natural compounds can be the basis for the wider use of EA in skin care and treatment. The aim of the article is to review the existing literature on the dermocosmetic use of E. angustifolium.     

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and “greener” hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.     

New developments in the extraction and determination of parabens in cosmetics and environmental samples. A review

Parabens are a family of synthetic esters of p-hydroxibenzoic acid widely used as preservatives in cosmetics and health-care products, among other daily-use commodities. Recently, their potential endocrine disrupting effects have raised concerns about their safety and their potential effects as emerging pollutants, leading to the regulation of the presence of parabens in commercial products by national and trans-national organizations. Also, this has led to an interest in developing sensible and reliable methods for their determination in environmental samples, cosmetics and health-care products.     

Purple passion fruit seeds (Passiflora edulis f. edulis Sims) as a promising source of skin anti-aging agents: Enzymatic,antioxidant and multi-level computational studies

This study aimed to assess the anti-aging potential of the ethanol extract of Passiflora edulis f. edulis Sims seeds, through in vitro determination of antioxidant activity and inhibition assays of some enzymes related to skin aging. Furthermore, using in silico methods (docking and molecular dynamics), were established the affinity of the majority compounds of the extract on the target enzymes, ending with the prediction of drug-likeness properties. The extract showed a high total phenolic content, represented mainly by flavonoids and phenolic acids, as well as a considerable antioxidant potential measured through the DPPH, FRAP and ORAC methods. In the inhibition assays of the enzymes collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase, IC₅₀ values presented were optimal. Docking studies demonstrated marked binding ability of the extract constituients (specially, fisetin, galangin and S-eriodictyol) to the Collagenase and Tyrosinase. Molecular dynamics validated the stability and rationality of these molecular docking studies, MM/PBSA calculations provide strong evidence for both their specific heavy binding and how enzyme-ligand complex stabilized inside the catalytic domain, and drug-likeness studies showed suitable dermato-pharmacokinetics indices for most of components of extract. Findings from this study suggest that ethanol extract of P. edulis has a great potential as an anti-aging agent.     

Chamomile: A Review of Its Traditional Uses,Chemical Constituents,Pharmacological Activities and Quality Control Studies

Matricaria chamomilla L. (MC) and Chamaemelum nobile (L.) All. (CN) are two varieties of Chamomile. These herbs have been used for thousands of years in Greece, Rome and ancient Egypt. Chamomile has been used for the treatment of stomach problems, cramps, dermatitis, and minor infections. The purpose of this study was to introduce the botanical characteristics and geographical distribution, traditional uses, chemical constituents, pharmacological activities, toxicity studies and quality control studies, and lay a theoretical foundation for the rational development and utilization of chamomile. This review powered that chemical constituents include flavonoids, coumarins, volatile oils, terpenes, organic acids, polysaccharides, and others. These compounds possess anticancer, anti-infective, anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, antioxidant, hypolipidaemic, hypoglycaemic, antihypertensive, antidepressant, neuroprotective activities, among others. Chamomile is a widely used herb in traditional medicine. It brings great economic value due to its numerous pharmacological effects and traditional uses. However, more toxicity tests should be carried out to confirm its safety. There is need for further research to provide concrete scientific evidence and validate its medicinal properties.     

Structure,Bioactivity and Analytical Methods for the Determination of Yucca Saponins

Yucca is one of the main sources of steroidal saponins, hence different extracts are commercialized for use as surfactant additives by beverage, animal feed, cosmetics or agricultural products. For a deeper understanding of the potential of the saponins that can be found in this genus, an exhaustive review of the structural characteristics, bioactivities and analytical methods that can be used with these compounds has been carried out, since there are no recent reviews on the matter. Thus, a total of 108 saponins from eight species of the genus Yucca have been described. Out of these, the bioactivity of 68 saponins derived from the isolation of Yucca or other genera has been evaluated. Regarding the evaluation and quality control of the saponins from this genus LC-MS technique is the most often used. Nevertheless, the development of methods for their routine analysis in commercial preparations are needed. Moreover, most of the studies found in the literature have been carried out on Y. schidigera extract, since is the most often used for commercial purposes. Only eight of the 50 species that belong to this genus have been studied, which clearly indicates that the identification of saponins present in Yucca genus is still an unresolved question.     

Biological and Cosmetical Importance of Fermented Raw Materials: An Overview

The cosmetics industry is currently looking for innovative ingredients with higher bioactivity and bioavailability for the masses of natural and organic cosmetics. Bioferments are innovative ingredients extracted from natural raw materials by carrying out a fermentation process with appropriate strains of microorganisms. The review was conducted using the SciFinder database with the keywords “fermented plant”, “cosmetics”, and “fermentation”. Mainly bioferments are made from plant-based raw materials. The review covers a wide range of fermented raw materials, from waste materials (whey with beet pulp) to plant oils (F-Shiunko, F-Artemisia, F-Glycyrrhiza). The spectrum of applications for bioferments is broad and includes properties such as skin whitening, antioxidant properties (blackberry, soybean, goji berry), anti-aging (red ginseng, black ginseng, Citrus unshiu peel), hydrating, and anti-allergic (aloe vera, skimmed milk). Fermentation increases the biochemical and physiological activity of the substrate by converting high-molecular compounds into low-molecular structures, making fermented raw materials more compatible compared to unfermented raw materials.     

Application of Carrageenan extract from red seaweed (Rhodophyta) in cosmetic products: A review

Cosmetic industries have expanded globally and will continue to increase as there are consumers. Nowadays, the interest starts to incline towards cosmetics formulated using plant-based ingredients. Marine plants such as seaweed possess numerous natural polysaccharides. Carrageenan is one of the compounds that can be extracted from red seaweed (Rhodophyta). This natural polysaccharide is widely known to act as a thickener, stabilizer, and water-binding agent as well as have diverse biological activities that make it a suitable active ingredient in cosmetic products. The review paper is organized by starting with discussing the significant aspects related to carrageenan which are the source, structure, as well as general and biological properties of carrageenan that make it appropriate to be applied in cosmetics. This paper also highlighted the applications of carrageenan in cosmetics, followed by the extraction method and instrument used.     

In vitro antifungal activity of flavonoid diglycosides of Mentha piperita and their oxime derivatives against two cereals fungi

Flavonoids due to their various interesting biological properties such as antifungal activity were investigated in Mentha piperita leaves. The butanolic fraction obtained from the hydro-alcoholic crude extract of M. piperita is rich in flavonoids; it reduced in vitro the mycelium growth of Phoma sorghina and Fusarium moniliforme around 72% and 55%, respectively, when used at a concentration of 5 mg/ml. In addition, the chemical conversion of the flavonoids in the butanolic fraction into their oxime derivatives increased the antifungal activity since the percentage of inhibition increased to 84% and 65% against P. sorghina and F. moniliforme, respectively, at 5 mg/ml. Butanolic fraction and oxime inhibition effects on spore germination of the two fungi were also observed. These results suggest that, M. piperita flavonoids could be used as botanical fungicides to protect cereals against infection from P. sorghina and F. moniliforme.     

The young fruit of Citrus aurantium L. or Citrus sinensis Osbeck as a natural health food: A deep insight into the scientific evidence of its health benefits

Fruits are consumed as foods or medicines to supply people with nutrition or treat diseases. Zhishi, the dried young fruit of Citrus aurantium L. or Citrus sinensis Osbeck, is one of the most representative health food from the fruit of the Citrus genus. It is widely used in flavorings, canned food, beverages, and medicines because of its outstanding curative effects. The bidirectional regulating effect of Zhishi on the gastrointestinal tract for treating food stagnation or diarrhea has been confirmed. Its active ingredients, including synephrine and N-methyltyramine, have been used clinically as blood pressure boosting and anti-shock drugs. Flavonoids and alkaloids of Zhishi also make it potential weight loss and beauty products due to their definite effectiveness and safety. This paper intends to review the different therapeutic applications of Zhishi and the phytochemicals associated with its medicinal values. Besides, up-to-date information on its botany and analytical methods for the quality control of the medicine is supplied. To conclude, numerous independent research on Zhishi have been conducted in the past decades, but most of them are not deep enough in elucidating its scientific evidence of its health benefits. Further studies may unveil additional pharmacological activities and is beneficial to the mankind.     

Validation of a High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detection Method for the Separation and Quantification of Antioxidant and Skin Anti-Aging Flavonoids from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. Stamen Extract

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., or the so-called sacred lotus, is a useful aquatic plant in the Nelumbonaceae family that has long been used to prepare teas, traditional medicines as well as foods. Many studies reported on the phytochemicals and biological activities of its leaves and seeds. However, to date, only few studies were conducted on its stamen, which is the most important ingredient for herbal medicines, teas and other phytopharmaceutical products. Thus, this present study focuses on the following: (1) the application of high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection for a validated separation and quantification of flavonoids from stamen; (2) the Nelumbo nucifera stamen’s in vitro and in cellulo antioxidant activities; as well as (3) its potential regarding the inhibition of skin aging enzymes for cosmetic applications. The optimal separation of the main flavonoids from the stamen ethanolic extract was effectively achieved using a core-shell column. The results indicated that stamen ethanolic extract has higher concentration of in vitro and in cellulo antioxidant flavonoids than other floral components. Stamen ethanolic extract showed the highest protective effect against reactive oxygen/nitrogen species formation, as confirmed by cellular antioxidant assay using a yeast model. The evaluation of potential skin anti-aging action showed that the stamen extract has higher potential to inhibit tyrosinase and collagenase compared with its whole flower. These current findings are the first report to suggest the possibility to employ N. nucifera stamen ethanolic extract as a tyrosinase and collagenase inhibitor in cosmetic applications, as well as the utility of the current separation method.     

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.