A Review of Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy

The use of sunscreen products has been advocated by many health care practitioners as a means to reduce skin damage produced by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from sunlight. There is a need to better understand the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products given this ongoing campaign encouraging their use. The approach used to establish sunscreen efficacy, sun protection factor (SPF), is a useful assessment of primarily UVB (290–320 nm) filters. The SPF test, however, does not adequately assess the complete photoprotective profile of sunscreens specifically against long wavelength UVAI (340–400 nm). Moreover, to date, there is no singular, agreed upon method for evaluating UVA efficacy despite the immediate and seemingly urgent consumer need to develop sunscreen products that provide broad-spectrum UVB and UVA photoprotection. With regard to the safety of UVB and UVA filters, the current list of commonly used organic and inorganic sunscreens has favorable toxico-logical profiles based on acute, subchronic and chronic animal or human studies. Further, in most studies, sunscreens have been shown to prevent the damaging effects of UVR exposure. Thus, based on this review of currently available data, it is concluded that sunscreen ingredients or products do not pose a human health concern. Further, the regular use of appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen products could have a significant and favorable impact on public health as part of an overall strategy to reduce UVR exposure.     

A chromatography-mass spectrometry study of aquatic chlorination of UV-filter avobenzone

We studied the reactions of 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone), the most common UV filter in formulations of sunscreens, under the conditions of disinfection. Three chlorinated compounds were identified as the main products. Their structures were confirmed by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–MS²) with accurate mass measurements and by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS). It was reliably proved, that the substitution involved the double bond of the enolic form of the diketone, rather than the activated aromatic ring, leading to the formation of 2-chloro-1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione and 2,2-dichloro-1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione as the main products. The third identified product was 2-chloro-1-(4-methoxyphenyl)ethanone.     

A blocked diketo form of avobenzone: photostability, photosensitizing properties and triplet quenching by a triazine-derived UVB-filter

Novel sunscreens are required providing active protection in the UVA and UVB regions. On the other hand, there is an increasing concern about the photosafety of UV filters, as some of them are not sufficiently photostable. Avobenzone is one of the most frequently employed sunscreen ingredients, but it has been reported to partially decompose after irradiation. In the present work, photophysical and photochemical studies on a methylated avobenzone-derivative have shown that the diketo form is responsible for photodegradation. A transient absorption was observed at 380 nm after laser flash photolysis excitation at 308 nm. It was assigned to the triplet excited state of the diketo form, as inferred from quenching by oxygen and β-carotene. This transient also interacted with key building blocks of biomolecules by triplet–triplet energy transfer (in the case of thymidine) or electron transfer processes (for 2'-deoxyguanosine, tryptophan and tyrosine). Irradiation of the avobenzone derivative in the presence of a triazine UV-B filter (E-35852) diminished the undesirable effects of the compound by an efficient quenching of the triplet excited state. Thus, sunscreen formulations including triplet quenchers could provide effective protection from the potential phototoxic and photoallergic effects derived from poor photostability of avobenzone.     

Photostability of the sunscreening agent 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) in solvents of different polarity and proticity

The most widely used UVA absorber in broad-spectrum sunscreens is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone). However, the photostability of avobenzone is solvent-dependent. The aim of this work was to investigate the photostability of avobenzone in solvents of different polarity and proticity. Four solvents were employed, namely, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate, dimethylsulfoxide and methanol. The cause of the instability of avobenzone in these solvents was determined by means of UV spectroscopy, high performance liquid chromatography, gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. The effect of oxygen on the photo-instability was also determined. Avobenzone was found to lose absorption efficacy as a result of photoisomerisation from the enol to the keto form and/or photodegradation to form photoproducts that absorb principally in the UVC region, depending on the solvent. It was found to be essentially photostable in the polar protic solvent methanol but photoisomerised in the polar aprotic solvent dimethylsulfoxide. In the nonpolar solvent cyclohexane, it photodegraded appreciably. Both photoisomerisation and photodegradation occurred to a similar extent in the moderately polar aprotic solvent ethyl acetate. Photoisomerisation occurred only in the presence of oxygen whereas photodegradation occurred irrespective of oxygen. This knowledge is important in order to achieve the correct formulation for sunscreens incorporating avobenzone.     

Unexpected photolysis of the sunscreen octinoxate in the presence of the sunscreen avobenzone

A major concern raised about photostability studies of sunscreen products is that the photodegradation of sunscreens does not readily translate into changes in product performance. This study examines the correlation between photochemical degradation of sunscreen agents and changes in protection provided by sunscreen films. Films of a commercial sunscreen product containing avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate were irradiated using a fluorescent UV-A phototherapy lamp with additional UV-B blocking filter. Periodically, during irradiation the transmittances of the films were measured and samples collected for chemical analysis of the sunscreen agents using high-performance liquid chromatography techniques. The results show that UV-induced changes in UV transmittance of sunscreen films correlate with changes in concentration of sunscreen agents. In a parallel experiment, we also irradiated a thin film of the same product in the cavity of an electron spin resonance (ESR) spectrometer. We report the concomitant photolysis of avobenzone and octinoxate that predominates over expected E/Z photoisomerization and that irradiation of a film of this product produced free radicals detected by ESR spectroscopy that persisted even after exposure had ended.     

SUNSCREENS WITH BROAD-SPECTRUM ABSORPTION DECREASE THE trans TO cis PHOTOISOMERIZATION OF UROCANIC ACID IN THE HUMAN stratum corneum AFTER MULTIPLE UV LIGHT EXPOSURES

Abstract The trans to cis photoisomerization of urocanic acid (UCA) in skin is considered to play an important role in the mechanism of immunosuppression. We have investigated the effects of skin type and various sunscreens with low sun protection factor (SPF) on the UV-induced cis -UCA formation in human skin after exposure to artificial IJV light. The rate of cis -UCA formation depends little on the skin type and is reduced by topical application of sunscreens. The rate of cis -UCA formation decreases with increasing SPF and only broad-spectrum, highly protective sunscreens offer protection against the UV-induced formation of cis -UCA, which accumulates in the stratum corneum after multiple UV exposures. A theoretical approach to estimate the distribution of cis -UCA after irradiation indicates that this compound may diffuse into the deeper layers of the epidermis with D ∼ 10⁻¹⁷ m²/s, and that its elimination from the stratum corneum is mainly due to desquamation.     

Algorithm for in vitro Sun Protection Factor based on transmission spectrum measurement with concomitant evaluation of photostability

In the in vitro evaluation of Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the photostability of the ultraviolet (UV) filters can have a major impact, especially for high-SPF formulations, but is generally not taken into consideration. In this study, we present a UV transmission spectrum measurement system utilizing a high-sensitivity UV photomultiplier tube with concomitant evaluation of photostability. We have developed an algorithm to estimate SPF in vitro by converting the amount of UV light transmission through the sunscreen layer into cumulative relative erythema effectiveness to obtain one minimal erythema dose. Thus, the algorithm uses the same endpoint as in vivo SPF methods, but with a photomultiplier tube as the detector instead of skin. The values obtained showed an excellent correlation with in vivo SPF values, even for high-SPF sunscreens exceeding SPF 50. This method should be suitable as an in vitro SPF testing method for regulatory purposes.     

Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter

It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.     

Synthesis and evaluation of novel tetrapropoxycalix[4]arene enones and cinnamates for protection from ultraviolet radiation

A series of novel calix[4]arene enones (5-7) and cinnamates (12-14) have been synthesized and evaluated for ensuring protection from ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Spectroscopic analyses has revealed that compound 6 absorbs ultraviolet radiations between 280 and 350 nm with an absorption maximum at 312 nm. Its molar absorption coefficient (ε) (>5 × 10(4)M(-1)cm(-1)) and bandwidth are larger than those for the commercially used sun protectants (oxybenzone (OB), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (OMC) and avobenzone). The in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) measurement revealed an SPF of 5.2 at 2% concentration of 6 in home made emulsion formulations while combination of 2% each of 6 and OMC gave an SPF of 8.8. Lower sun protection seems to be compensated by significant protection from more harmful UVA radiations (UVA/UVB absorbance ratio of 0.62).     

Determination of wavelength-specific UV protection factors of sunscreens in intact skin by EPR measurement of UV-induced reactive melanin radical

There remains an unmet need for skin tissue-based assays for the measurement of the UVA protection and efficacy of sunscreens. Here we describe development of a novel electron paramagnetic resonance assay that uses the photogeneration of reactive melanin radical as a measure of UV light penetration to melanocytes in situ in skin. We have used areas of focal melanocytic hyperplasia in the skin of Monodelphis domestica to model the human nevus. We show that we are able to use this assay to determine the monochromatic protection factors (mPF) of research and commercial sunscreens at specific narrow wavebands of UVB, UVA and blue visible light. Both commercial sunscreens, a sun protection factor (SPF) 4 and an SPF 30 product, had mPFs in the UVB range that correlated well with their claimed SPF. However, their mPF in the UVA ranges were only about one-third of claimed SPF. This technique can be used to design and assay sunscreens with optimally balanced UVA and UVB protection.     

Measurements of the Protective Effect of Topically Applied Sunscreens using in vitro Three-dimensional Dermal and Skin Equivalents

Abstract— For preventing or minimizing acute and chronic skin damage caused by UV radiation, the use of sunscreens is probably the most important measure. To screen the protective efficacy of new sunscreen molecules or formulations against UV rays, we evaluated as in vitro testing methods the use of two three-dimensional models, a dermal equivalent (DE) and a skin equivalent (SE). The DE is composed of a porous collagen-glycosaminoglycans-chitosan matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts. The SE is comprised of a fully differentiated epidermis realized by seeding keratinocytes onto the DE. In this study, we demonstrated that the DE and SE models react to the deleterious effects of UVA and UVB. Then, we extended our research to the evaluation of their usefulness for photoprotection trials. Sunscreen agents (Euso-lex 8020 and 6300) and commercially available sunscreens (chemical and physical filter formulations) that protect the skin against either UVA or UVB were evaluated. The tested products were applied (n = 6) topically (10 μL) and incubated for 30 min prior to irradiation over a range of UVA (0-50 J/cm²) or UVB (0-5 J/cm²). The photoprotection provided by the tested sunscreen molecules and formulations was evaluated by measurement of residual cellular viability 24 h postirradiation using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetra-zolium bromide (MTT) test and assessment of the inflammation response by interleukin-la release assay. When sunscreens were applied prior to UV exposure, a higher residual cellular viability versus control was obtained, demonstrating the photoprotective effects of the tested products. These in vitro models could be used for screening tests to evaluate the protective effects of sunscreen molecules and formulations, especially for UVA trials because there is a lack of consensus for an in vivo method.     

EFFECTS OF UV IRRADIATION ON A LIVING SKIN EQUIVALENT

Abstract— The Living Skin Equivalent (LSE™) is an organotypic coculture composed of human dermal fibroblasts interspersed in a collagen-containing matrix and overlaid with human keratinocytes forming a stratified epidermis. The LSE has a dry, air-exposed epidermal surface suitable for the application of oils, creams and emulsions. These features suggested its feasibility as an in vitro skin model for studying the protective effects of sunscreens. Using the thiazolyl blue (MTT) conversion assay as a measure of mitochondrial function, the extent of cytotoxicity induced by various doses of UV-R (280–400 nm) or UV-A (320–400 nm) was evaluated in the LSE. The doses of UV radiation that caused 50% reductions in MTT conversion (UV-R₅₀ or UV-A₅₀) in different lots of LSE were 0.053 ± 0.021 J/cm² (n = 29) and 11.6 ± 4.9 J/cm² (n = 17) for UV-R and UV-A, respectively. The protective effects of an 8% homosylate standard and of five UV-A sunscreens, topically applied to the LSE, were determined and compared with their reported protection factors in human skin. Morphological changes and the release of proinflammatory mediators (interleukin-1-α, tumor necrosis factor-α and prostaglandin E2) implicated in UV-induced erythema were also demonstrated in the LSE exposed to UV-A or UV-B. The data suggest that the LSE can be used for studying the effects of U V radiation on skin and may have utility for assessing the efficacy of certain sunscreens against UV-B and UV-A.     

Light source spectrum strongly influences the in vitro estimation of sun protection factor

Irradiation from an artificial solar simulator that matches the relative cumulative erythema effectiveness (RCEE) of sunlight is used for in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing, whereas irradiation that matches the spectrum of natural sunlight (NS) is generally used for in vitro SPF testing. This study was designed to clarify whether this difference is important. Eight sunscreens spread on artificial substrates and several optical filters as sunscreen mimics were used. Their in vitro SPF values were evaluated using RCEE-compliant and NS spectrum-matching light sources in calculation. The calculated in vitro SPF values obtained using NS light (SPF [NS]) were lower than those obtained using RCEE light (SPF [RCEE]). The in vitro SPF (RCEE) values showed a better correlation and better agreement with in vivo SPF values, as compared with the in vitro SPF (NS) values. A marked difference between in vitro SPF values obtained with the two light sources in calculation was found for sunscreens showing low transmittance in the ultraviolet B region. To obtain in vitro SPF values that correspond well to in vivo SPF values measured with currently accepted methodology, it is important to use an RCEE-compliant light source.     

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of sunscreens by chromatographic measurement of DNA damage in skin explants

Evaluation of the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is performed either through the induction of erythema and expressed as the sun protection factor (SPF), or by the UVA-mediated persistent pigment darkening (PPD). None of these two endpoints has a link with skin cancer, the most deleterious consequence of excess exposure to solar UV radiation. We thus set up a complementary approach to evaluate the protection provided by sunscreens to the genome of human skin. This is based on the quantification of the thymine cyclobutane dimer (TT-CPD), the main DNA lesion induced by both UVB and UVA radiations. Irradiations were performed ex vivo on human skin explants and the level of TT-CPD in DNA was determined by HPLC associated with tandem mass spectrometry. The technique was first optimized and validated with three standard sunscreens. The study was then extended to the evaluation of a commercial high SPF sunscreen exhibiting efficient UVA photoprotection. The DNA protecting factor was found to reflect the ratio between UVB and UVA photoprotection, although the absolute values of the genomic protection were, as a general trend, lower than either SPF or PPD. These data show the usefulness of the proposed approach for the evaluation of the genoprotection afforded by sunscreens.     

Poly(3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene): Synthesis and comparison with poly(3-methoxythiophene)

A new electroactive polymer, namely poly(3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene) has been prepared by voltammetric polymerization of 3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene. Due to a different coupling pattern (equivalent to “head-to-head,” and “tail-to-tail” coupled alkoxythiophene rings), poly(3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene) exhibits different voltammetric properties than the corresponding “head-to-tail” coupled polymer, i.e., poly(3-methoxythiophene). Poly(3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene) gives very sharp oxidation and reduction peaks indicating an abrupt insulator to conductor transition. This hypothesis was corroborated by the studies of relative resistance as a function of electrode potential. Sharper and better-defined redox peaks may indicate better stereoregularity of poly(3,3′-dimethoxy-2,2′-bithiophene) as compared to poly(3-methoxythiophene) since in this compound the 5,5′-coupling positions are geometrically equivalent and no coupling defects are expected. © 1992 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

A COMPARISON OF IN VIVO AND IN VITRO TESTING OF SUNSCREENING FORMULAS

Abstract— Seven commercially available sunscreens were compared by three different methods. Absorbance spectra were measured for each product in isopropanol solution and also on hairless mouse epidermis. In vivo tests were performed on human volunteers using a Xe arc solar simulator. Sun Protection Factors (SPF) were calculated by each method for each product tested and the results compared. By all methods used, the combination of 7% octyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid and 3% oxybenzone provided the most protection from U.V. light. While estimates of the effectiveness of all products were much too high when calculated by the isopropanol solution method, the hairless mouse epidermis technique seems to be an accurate tool for predicting product efficacy in vivo .     

Influence of application amount on sunscreen photodegradation in in vitro sun protection factor evaluation: proposal of a skin-mimicking substrate

Widely used polymethylmethacrylate substrates for in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) testing of sunscreens do not mimic the rough surface structure of skin, and in addition, sample loading is less than that used in in vivo SPF testing (2.00 mg cm(-2)). We have developed a skin-mimicking substrate (SMS), which has furrows and ridges on its surface, like human skin. A comparison of the photodegradation profiles of sunscreens on commercially available substrates (including SMS) at the recommended application amounts, and on SMS at various application amounts showed that the photodegradation rate of photounstable sunscreen was dependent on the application amount being higher at lower application amounts. SMS at the recommended application amount of 2.00 mg cm(-2) provided in vitro SPF values that were comparable with in vivo SPF values. Our results confirm that, in order to develop a reliable in vitro SPF method, which is consistent with in vivo SPF determination, it is important to use the same application amount of sample as in the in vivo method, in order to take proper account of sunscreen photostability.     

Anionic condensations of 3,5-di-<Emphasis Type="Italic">tert</Emphasis>-butyl-4(2)-hydroxybenzaldehydes in the presence of weak bases

Products of the reactions of 4- and 2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butyl-benzaldehydes with malonic acid, diethyl malonate, and acetic anhydride in the presence of weak bases were isolated and identified. The reactions of 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde with malonic acid and acetic anhydride in the presence of sodium acetate and piperidine gave 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxycinnamic acid. The reaction of its 2-hydroxy isomer with acetic anhydride stopped at the stage of formation of the corresponding O-acetyl derivative, while in the reaction with malonic acid the corresponding substituted cinnamic acid and its lactone (coumarin derivative) were formed as intermediate products in a transformation sequence finally leading to 3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-2-hydroxyphenyl)-3-piperidinopropionic acid and 6,8-di-tert-butyl-2-oxo-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-4-ylacetic acid. Analogous differences were typical of reactions of isomeric 4- and 2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylbenzaldehydes with diethyl malonate. The transformations of the 2-hydroxy isomer were accompanied by hydrolysis and formation of an adduct of intermediate coumarin derivative with diethyl malonate and piperidine.     

Sunscreen isn't enough.

Topical sunscreens act by absorbing or scattering UV radiation and are widely available for general public use as a consumer product. Surveys carried out in the UK find that sunscreen use is regarded as the most important, and by implication the most effective, sun protection measure. But is perception borne out by reality? Sunscreens applied at the thickness tested by manufacturers need only possess an SPF of 15 to prevent sunburn even for all day exposure in tropical sunshine. Yet behavioural studies show that high SPF (>15) sunscreens do not always prevent sunburn. That the protection achieved is often less than that expected depends upon a number of factors: application thickness and technique; type of sunscreen applied; resistance to water immersion and sand abrasion; and when, where and how often sunscreen is re-applied. These factors provide ample evidence that the numerical measure of protection indicated on the product pack is generally higher than achieved in practice. This mismatch between expectation and realisation may be one contributing factor why sunscreens have been reported to be a risk factor in melanoma.