Reapplication improves the amount of sunscreen, not its regularity, under real life conditions

The sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens is determined using samples applied with a thickness of 2 mg cm(-2). Sunscreen users, however, typically apply sunscreen nonuniformly and in smaller amounts. The objective of our study was to verify whether sunscreen reapplication increases the amount and regularity of the product on the skin. Volunteers were asked to apply an SPF 6 sunscreen on their forearms and reapply it 30 min later on one forearm. Tape-strips were used to collect five samples from two different sites on each forearm. The concentration of benzophenone-3 in the samples was measured and the total amount of sunscreen was estimated using high-performance liquid chromatography. The median amount of sunscreen film was 0.43 mg cm(-2) (0.17-1.07) after one application and 0.95 mg cm(-2) (0.18-1.91) after two applications (P = 0.002). No significant difference was found in the film uniformity. Though sunscreen reapplication increases the amount of product on the skin, levels are still lower than the recommended amount, confirming that the protection level is less than the product-stated SPF. Our results are the first in the literature to support the recommendation for reapplying sunscreens. Based on our results, we recommend that sunscreens be labeled using qualitative measures.     

Design of a photostabilizer having built-in antioxidant functionality and its utility in obtaining broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations

Di-2,2'-diethylhexyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzylidenemalonate (INCI name diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, DESM), the target photostabilizer, was synthesized in one step by condensation of 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy benzaldehyde (Syringaldehyde) with di-2,2'-diethylhexyl malonate. Photostability data in sunscreen formulations showed that DESM is photostable and improves the photostability of avobenzone significantly when compared to control (without a photostabilizer). Photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations with high SPF (>30) have been achieved by combining avobenzone, DESM and UV-B sunscreens, such as homosalate, octisalate or other UV-B sunscreens. It seems that (a) triplet-state energy transfer from avobenzone to DESM and (b) scavenging of reactive species are responsible for the observed stabilization of avobenzone. In vitro study of the two formulations containing DESM clearly showed critical wavelength of well over 370 nm and can thus be categorized as broad-spectrum sunscreens. DESM does not have any contribution to in vivo SPF; instead it boosts SPF by about 5 units in high-SPF products. DESM was found to be an excellent singlet-oxygen quencher, thereby reducing photodegradation of avobenzone caused by singlet oxygen. In short, the multiplicity of effects and formulation benefits seen with DESM makes it an ideal choice as a unique antioxidant photostabilizer for a variety of cosmetic products targeting young and mature skin alike.     

紫外光下纳米TiO2 薄膜亲水性机理的电化学研究

The nanometer films of TiO2 were prepared by sol-gel method on ITO（Indium-tin oxide,SnO2:In） substrate. The TiO2 film was the anatase phase with a particle size of 100 nm from the measurements of X-ray diffraction and AFM（Atomic-Force-Microscope）. Electrochemical characteristics of ITO/ TiO2 electrode under UV（ultraviolet）irradiation were investigated using the method of cyclic voltammetry. A new oxidative peak was observed at 0.035 V when the TiO2 electrode was irradiated by 253.7 nm UV light for a certain time. The peak current increased with the irradiation time. It was assumed that the new oxidative peak resulted from Ti3+,which was formed during the UV illumination. The changes of hydrophilicity of the TiO2 thin film on ITO under UV light were also observed. It was assumed that the changes of hydrophilicity of the films may be related with the formation of Ti3+ on the surface when the film was irradiated by UV light.     

Alternative methods to evaluate the protective ability of sunscreen against photo-genotoxicity

Numerous epidemiological investigations show that sunlight is carcinogenic to humans and that the use of sunscreen may be effective in decreasing the risk of skin cancer. The biological activity of a sunscreen is evaluated by its ability to protect human skin from erythema as represented by a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). We propose that the sunscreen's protective effect against sunlight-induced genotoxicity, including mutation, should also be taken into account. In this study we examined the protective ability of sunscreens against natural sunlight and UV-induced genotoxicity in Drosophila somatic cells. We prepared three kinds of sunscreen samples, each with an SPF value of 20, 40 or 60 and compared their protective activities with commercial sunscreens. When a sunscreen of SPF 20, 40 or 60 was pasted on the plastic cover of a petri dish in which Drosophila larvae were exposed to the sun or UV lamps, genotoxicity decreased as the SPF of the sunscreen increased, relative to levels of genotoxicity observed in samples without sunscreen. However, the protective abilities of sunscreens were unexpectedly not so different from each other. To reveal the relationship between the protective activity of sunscreen and the wavelength of light with which larvae were irradiated through the sunscreen, we measured the transmittance of light through the petri dish cover on which the sunscreen was pasted. Effective protection was demonstrated by removing components of light whose wavelengths were below 315 nm. We suggest, that the measurement of anti-genotoxic activity and the determination of the wavelengths of light transmitted through the sunscreen should be an alternative method for evaluating the effectiveness of a sunscreen.     

Relevance of sunscreen application method, visible light and sunlight intensity to free-radical protection: A study of ex vivo human skin

With the continued rise in skin cancers worldwide there is a need for effective skin protection against sunlight damage. It was shown previously that sunscreens, which claimed UVA protection (SPF 20+), provided limited protection against UV-induced ascorbate radicals in human skin. Here the results of an electron spin resonance (ESR) investigation to irradiate ex vivo human skin with solar-simulated light are reported. The ascorbate radical signal in the majority of skin samples was directly proportional to the irradiance over relevant sunlight intensities (0.9-2.9 mW cm(-2)). Radical production (substratum-corneum) by UV (wavelengths < 400 nm) and visible components (> 400 nm) was approximately 67% and 33% respectively. Ascorbate radicals were in steady state concentration at low irradiance (approximately 1 mW cm(-2) equivalent to UK sunlight), but at higher irradiance (approximately 3 mW cm(-2)) decreased with time, suggesting ascorbate depletion. Radical protection by a four star-rated sunscreen (with UVA protection) was optimal when applied as a thin film (40-60% at 2 mg cm(-2)) but less so when rubbed into the skin (37% at 4 mg cm(-2) and no significant protection at 2 mg cm(-2)), possibly due to cream filling crevices, which reduced film thickness. This study validates ESR determinations of the ascorbate radical for quantitative protection measurements. Visible light contribution to radical production, and loss of protection when sunscreen is rubbed into skin, has implications for sunscreen design and use for the prevention of free-radical damage.     

气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中13种防晒剂

防晒剂广泛应用于化妆品中,是目前化妆品监管的重点。建立了同时测定化妆品中13种防晒剂的气相色谱-质谱(GC-MS)方法。化妆品样品经二氯甲烷提取后,涡旋超声后稀释。采用程序升温模式,经HP-5ms毛细管色谱柱(30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm)在30 min内对13种防晒剂实现分离,经电子轰击(EI)源电离后采用选择离子监测模式(SIM)扫描测定,外标法定量。比较了6种常用有机溶剂的基质效应和平均回收率,二氯甲烷的基质效应弱,平均回收率较高。13种防晒剂在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.998,检出限(LOD, S/N=3)为0.04~0.63 mg/g,定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)为0.12~2.10 mg/g。实验选取了两种基质,在3个水平下验证方法的回收率和精密度,13种防晒剂在霜类基质中的加标回收率为88.7%~103.6%,相对标准偏差(RSD, n=6)为1.7%~4.9%,在乳类基质中的加标回收率为88.4%~102.3%, RSD(n=6)为1.2%~3.9%。美白类化妆品常添加防晒剂成分,为监管盲区,采用该方法检测了5批含有防晒剂的美白类化妆品,其所含5种防晒剂的含量为0.8%~5.2%,符合相关要求。该方法操作简单,灵敏度高,回收率好,测定的13种防晒剂均为我国《化妆品安全技术规范》2015版规定的常用的限用组分,可以用于各类化妆品中13种防晒剂的定性定量测定,为市场监管和实验室检测提供新的技术支持。     

Photochemical modification of polymer surface by the pendant photobase generator containing oxime‐urethane groups and its application to an image‐recording material

Copolymers containing oxime‐urethane groups were prepared by the copolymerization of methyl methacrylate and benzophenoneoximinocarbonylaminoethyl methacrylate (BCM), and their photochemical properties were examined from the UV and IR absorption spectral changes. The decomposed fraction of oxime‐urethane groups in the copolymer increased with irradiation time, but it decreased with the content of BCM units in the copolymer. Changes of the surface properties of the copolymer film on irradiation were studied by measurements of the contact angle and dyeing with an acid dye. The surface of the copolymer film changed to become more hydrophilic upon irradiation with 254 nm of UV light. After the irradiated copolymer films were treated with HCl or methanol, changes of the contact angle of water on irradiation were compared. The copolymer film was dyed by acid dyes after treatment of the irradiated film with HCl. The degree of dyeing increased with irradiation time and BCM units in the copolymer, but it was unaffected by the film thickness. Various colors were developed on the irradiated area depending on the acid dye as the developer. © 2002 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Polym Sci Part A: Polym Chem 40: 1200–1207, 2002     

In vivo evaluation of photoprotection against chronic ultraviolet-A irradiation by a new sunscreen Mexoryl SX.

In a previous study on the hairless mouse it was shown that sub-erythemal doses of pure UV-A enhanced the numerous changes normally observed during chronological aging. A new sunscreen (a bis-benzylidene campho sulfonic acid derivative) has been synthesized in our research laboratory (lambda max: 345 nm, epsilon: 47,000). Its photoprotective properties against UV-A induced damages were assessed in our mouse model. Three month old albino hairless mice were exposed for 1 y to suberythemal doses (35 J/cm2) of UV-A obtained from a xenon source filtered through a WG 345 filter. One group of animals was exposed untreated, the other received a formulation containing 5% of the sunscreen prior to irradiation. At the end of the study the cutaneous properties of protected mice were compared to those of unprotected animals and to 3 and 15 month old unirradiated controls. We found that the visible changes induced by UV-A irradiation were mainly sagging and wrinkling. Histological and electron microscopic alterations consisted of hyperkeratosis, increased density of elastic fibers with alteration of fiber orientation and increased glycosaminoglycan deposits. Biochemical changes consisted of decreases in total collagen and collagen hydroxylation and increases in both collagen III/I + III ratio and fibronectin biosynthesis. All these changes were reduced or abolished by the sunscreen.     

双长链烷基Dawson结构钼磷酸复合薄膜的制备、结构及光致变色性质

近年来 ,无机 -有机复合材料由于其独特的结构和特殊的光、电和磁功能特性而引起科研工作者的广泛关注 [1,2 ] .杂多化合物为均一的无机多聚物 ,具有笼状结构 ,结构中均有 M3O13三金属氧簇 ,能够接受电子生成杂多蓝或杂多棕 ,加之其在水和有机溶剂中的溶解性和稳定性 ,使其在光电变色材料领域中具有潜在的应用价值 [3～ 5] .但这类化合物难于加工成实际应用的器件 ,因而限制了其进一步的应用 .利用有机组分调控的超分子自组装技术可构建光致变色同多酸或杂多酸纳米薄膜材料 ,从而为开发变色响应快、稳定性好、变色可调控的新型光电变色高密…     

Aqueous photolysis of the sunscreen agent octyl-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid. Formation of disinfection byproducts in chlorinated swimming pool water

The photochemical behavior of the sunscreen agent octyl-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (ODPABA) was studied in different aqueous solutions and under different conditions. ODPABA photolysis was performed under laboratory conditions using a xenon light source and under natural sunlight conditions in sea, swimming pool as well as in distilled water. The influence of dissolved organic matter (DOM) on the degradation kinetics was also studied in the presence of various concentrations of humic acids (HA). The phototransformation was shown to proceed via pseudo-first-order reaction in all cases and the reaction rates followed the order: distilled water > swimming pool water > seawater, depending mainly on the presence of dissolved organic matter that retarded the photolysis reaction. Kinetic experiments were monitored with HPLC/UV-DAD and the half-lives (t 1/2) varied between 1.6 and 39 h in simulated solar irradiation and between 27 and 39 h in natural sunlight conditions. The product distribution during illumination was strongly dependent on the constitution of the irradiated media. Irradiation of the aqueous ODPABA solutions gave rise to several transformation products that were isolated by means of solid-phase extraction (SPE) and identified using GC-MS techniques. These were formed mainly through dealkylation and hydroxylation reactions and were detected in all aqueous solutions investigated. In the case of swimming pool water some additional byproducts were isolated and were tentatively identified as chlorinated intermediates, formed by the subsequent chlorination of the parent molecule as well as other intermediates.     

气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中的防晒剂

采用气相色谱-质谱法测定了化妆品中11种防晒剂，通过对提取溶剂、提取条件的选择和线性、灵敏度、精密度、回收率等的研究，建立了测定化妆品中防晒剂的方法，11种防晒剂的平均回收率(n＝5)在98．2％-101．2％之间，相对标准偏差(n＝5)在0．3％-1．6％之间。     

Development of bioactive coatings based on γ-irradiated proteins to preserve strawberries

Gamma irradiation was applied for creating cross-linked proteins to enhance the physicochemical properties of edible films made of calcium caseinate, whey protein isolate and glycerol. The characteristics of γ irradiated cross-linked proteins were analyzed by Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy. A second derivative spectra exhibited changes in band intensities that were correlated to an increase of β-sheet structure and a decrease of α-helix and unordered fractions of γ irradiated-cross-linked proteins as compared to the control without irradiation. Furthermore, on addition of methylcellulose to the irradiated protein matrix it was found that it has potential in enhancing the puncture strength and has no detrimental effect on water vapor permeability of protein based films. Finally, these film formulations were used as bioactive edible coatings containing natural antimicrobial agents (limonene and peppermint) to preserve the shelf life of fresh strawberries during storage. The bioactive coatings containing peppermint was found to be more efficient as preserving coatings than the formulations containing limonene. Irradiated proteins/methylcellulose/peppermint formulation had only 40% of decay at day 8 while it was 65% for the control.     

Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products using microwave-assisted extraction and liquid chromatography

Microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), was used to extract sunscreen agents from cosmetic products. The extracts were analyzed by liquid chromatography (LC). The present method allows the determination of three sunscreen agents, Eusolex 2292, 4360 and 6300. The precision of the assay at 40 microg/ml of sunscreen agents ranged from 1.5 to 2.2%, and the detection limits were 2.0-4.0 ng/ml.     

Degradation behavior of poly (l-lactide-co-glycolide) films through gamma-ray irradiation

Gamma-ray irradiation is a very useful tool to improve the physicochemical properties of various biodegradable polymers without the use of a heating and crosslinking agent. The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation behavior of poly (l-lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) depending on the applied gamma-ray irradiation doses. PLGA films prepared through a solvent casting method were irradiated with gamma radiation at various irradiation doses. The irradiation was performed using 60Co gamma-ray doses of 25–500 kGy at a dose rate of 10 kGy/h.The degradation of irradiated films was observed through the main chain scission. Exposure to gamma radiation dropped the average molecular weight (M_n and M_w), and weakened the mechanical strength. Thermograms of irradiated film show various changes of thermal properties in accordance with gamma-ray irradiation doses. Gamma-ray irradiation changes the morphology of the surface, and improves the wettability. In conclusion, gamma-ray irradiation will be a useful tool to control the rate of hydrolytic degradation of these PLGA films.     

A blocked diketo form of avobenzone: photostability, photosensitizing properties and triplet quenching by a triazine-derived UVB-filter

Novel sunscreens are required providing active protection in the UVA and UVB regions. On the other hand, there is an increasing concern about the photosafety of UV filters, as some of them are not sufficiently photostable. Avobenzone is one of the most frequently employed sunscreen ingredients, but it has been reported to partially decompose after irradiation. In the present work, photophysical and photochemical studies on a methylated avobenzone-derivative have shown that the diketo form is responsible for photodegradation. A transient absorption was observed at 380 nm after laser flash photolysis excitation at 308 nm. It was assigned to the triplet excited state of the diketo form, as inferred from quenching by oxygen and β-carotene. This transient also interacted with key building blocks of biomolecules by triplet–triplet energy transfer (in the case of thymidine) or electron transfer processes (for 2'-deoxyguanosine, tryptophan and tyrosine). Irradiation of the avobenzone derivative in the presence of a triazine UV-B filter (E-35852) diminished the undesirable effects of the compound by an efficient quenching of the triplet excited state. Thus, sunscreen formulations including triplet quenchers could provide effective protection from the potential phototoxic and photoallergic effects derived from poor photostability of avobenzone.     

Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products by supercritical fluid extraction and high-performance liquid chromatography

A rapid supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) procedure for the isolation of five of the most common sunscreen agents (2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and 4-tert.-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane) from cosmetic products is described. Investigation of the factors affecting the extraction efficiency in SFE indicated that sunscreen recoveries were affected mainly by the supercritical CO₂ pressure and by the trapping method. The sunscreens were analyzed by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography after a 10-min extraction of the cosmetic product with CO₂ at 250 bar and 40°C, using sequential glass surface and C₁₈ sorbent as collection system. A quantitative comparison of SFE with a liquid extraction procedure was performed on commercial cosmetics. The SFE method yielded recoveries higher than 94.8% compared with conventional liquid extraction and exhibited a precision better than 5.3% relative standard deviation. Moreover, SFE minimized sample handling, reduced the consumption of harmful solvents and afforded a more effective purification of the cosmetic matrices.     

Electron stimulated desorption of anionic fragments from films of pure and electron-irradiated thiophene

The electron stimulated desorption (ESD) of anions is used to explore the effects of electron irradiation on a thiophene film and we report measurements for electron impact on multilayer thiophene condensed on a polycrystalline platinum substrate. Below 22 eV and at low electron dose, desorbed anions include H- (the dominant signal) as well as S-, CH2-, SH- and SCH2-. Yield functions show that anions are desorbed both by dissociative electron attachment (DEA) with resonances observed at 9.5, 11, and 16 eV, and for energies >13 eV, by dipolar dissociation (DD). An increase in the S- signal from electron irradiated (beam-damaged) thiophene films and the appearance of a new DEA resonance in the S- yield function at 6 eV are linked to rupture of the thiophene ring and the formation of sulfur-terminated products within the film. The threshold energy for ring rupture is 5 eV. The desorption of new anions such as C4H3S- (Thiophene-H)- is also observed from electron irradiated films and these likely arise from the decomposition of large radiation product molecules synthesized in the film. The yield functions of H-, S-, SH-, (Thiophene-H)-, and (Thiophene+H)- anions from irradiated thiophene films that have been annealed to 300 K, each exhibit a single resonant feature centered around 5.1 eV, suggesting that all signals derive from DEA to the same molecular radiation product. In contrast, only H- and S- are observed to desorb from films of 2-2-bithiophene and no resonance is seen below approximately 10 eV in the anion yield functions. These data suggest that electron irradiation causes formation of ring-opened oligomers, and that closed-ring or 'classical" oligomers, (similar to bithiophene) if formed, contribute little to the ESD of anions.     

Polymerization of an Elaidic Acid Langmuir Film Prepared on a Terbium-Containing Subphase

The UV-induced polymerization of an elaidic acid Langmuir film prepared on a terbium-containing subphase has been studied. The polymerization caused changes in pressure/area isotherms. The irradiated film in its more condensed state is in a liquid phase while the monomer film is in a solid phase. The dynamics of the irradiated films was investigated by following the evolution of the film area at a constant pressure. For the longer irradiation times, an expansion of the film area was observed. Scanning force microscopy and IR spectroscopy have been used to study the monolayer after its transfer onto a solid support. IR spectroscopic measurements indicated the presence of an oxygen-containing copolymer. Scanning force microscopy images revealed a modification of the structure of the film after irradiation. Copyright 1999 Academic Press.     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的12种紫外吸收剂

建立了高效液相色谱同时测定化妆品中12种紫外吸收剂含量的方法。样品用甲醇提取,高速离心,过滤,以SB-C8柱(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)为分离色谱柱,甲醇和0.1%(v/v)甲酸水溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,以311 nm为检测波长进行定性、定量分析。该方法前处理简单、易操作,12种紫外吸收剂分离效果良好;在1.0～500 mg/L范围内呈线性关系,相关系数大于0.9995;方法检出限为0.002～0.1 mg/L;实际样品中的加标回收率为97.4%～107.5%,相对标准偏差为1.54%～4.98%。该方法简便、准确,能够满足化妆品中紫外吸收剂的检测要求。     

Neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry for fast screening sunscreen agents in cream cosmetic products

High throughput analysis of sunscreen agents present in cream cosmetic has been demonstrated, typically 2 samples per minute, using neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ND-EESI-MS) without sample pretreatment. For the targeted compounds such as 4-Aminobenzoic acid and oxybenzone, ND-EESI-MS method provided linear signal responses in the range of 1-100 ppb. Limits of detection (LOD) of the method were estimated at sub-ppb levels for the analytes tested. Reasonable relative standard deviation (RSD = 8.4-16.0%) was obtained as a result of 10 independent measurements for commercial cosmetics samples spiked with each individual sunscreen agents at 1-10 ppb. Acceptable recoveries were achieved in the range of 87-116% for direct analysis of commercial cream cosmetic samples. The experimental data demonstrate that ND-EESI-MS is a useful tool for high throughput screening of sunscreen agents in highly viscous cream cosmetic products, with the capability to obtain quantitative information of the analytes.