Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.     

Thermal analysis of hair treated with oxidative hair dye under influence of conditioners agents

This research aimed the effect on Caucasian hair tresses treated with oxidative hair dye, either incorporated or not with conditioners agents, analyzed by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric analysis (TG). The formulations of hair dyes were emulsions oil-in-water with light blond color containing or not the conditioners agents: silanetriol and panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone; hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed milk protein, and lactose. Each dye (1.5 g) was applied in the hair tress (2.0 g/20.0 cm of length of Caucasian light-brown), previously treated, more 1.5 g of hydrogen peroxide 20 vol during 40 min. Evaluation of mass loss of the different hair sample demonstrates that these chemical hair treatments impair the hair fibers, reduced their moisture content with respect to the untreated hair. The incorporation of conditioners agents (silanetriol and panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone; hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed milk protein, and lactose) in oxidative hair dyes types did not decrease the damage caused on the tresses by the coloring process quantified by TG/DTG. However, the DSC curves demonstrated those conditioners agents (silanetriol and panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone) dislocated the beginning of the third event in 20 °C and they inhibited the presence of the fourth event, having characterized thermal protection to the hair.     

Monitoring the effects of component structure and source on formulation stability and adjuvant activity of oil-in-water emulsions

Oil-in-water emulsions have shown promise as safe and effective adjuvant formulations for vaccines. In particular, formulations consisting of metabolizable oils such as shark-derived squalene and detergents such as egg phosphatidylcholine have been used to produce stable vaccine emulsion formulations. However, there is an emphasis in pharmaceutical regulatory bodies on using synthetic or plant-derived components from sustainable sources instead of animal-derived components. This study compares the physicochemical properties and biological efficacy of emulsions consisting of oil and detergent components from animal, plant, and synthetic sources. In particular, effects of component structure and source on emulsion stability and biological activity are examined. It is shown that oil-in-water emulsions using animal-derived components can be substituted with synthetic or plant-derived materials while still exhibiting satisfactory physicochemical and biological properties.     

Impact of Tween 60 on physicochemical properties and stability of Pistacia lentiscus fruit oil-in-water emulsion at a semi-low temperature

This study shows the effects of the Tween 60 emulsifier at different concentrations on the aqueous emulsion containing 5% of Pistacia lentiscus fruit oil. The rheological behavior and the droplet size distribution of cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions were investigated. This investigation was carried out by analyzing the shear flow and dynamic oscillatory followed by microscopic analysis and physical stability study for 24?hours and 4 months. During the period of 4 months, the emulsions were stored in a refrigerator at a semi-low temperature 12?°C. The physical stability test showed that the sample not emulsified yielded a creaming process after a short aging time. Flow curves of emulsions prepared with TW 60 exhibited a non-linear relationship between the shear stress σ and shear rate γ ?, which implies that the Herschel–Bulkley rheological model was the appropriate model for the shear flow. The increase of emulsifier quantities leading to an increase in the internal structure coherence, whereas the excess quantity affects the structure. Therefore, the optimal quantity proposed was 3.47%. Furthermore, the storage time at a semi-low temperature performed the stability and maintain the structure of emulsions.     

Water-dispersible non-aqueous emulsions stabilized by a poly(butadiene)-b-poly(2-vinylpyridine) block copolymer

Submicron non-aqueous emulsions, of interest for biomedical and cosmetic formulations, were developed for the system comprising poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) 400 and Miglyol 812, an enzymatic degradable liquid glycerine ester. These emulsions, with PEG 400 as continuous phase and Miglyol 812 droplets, in the size range of 200 nm, were stabilized by a poly(butadiene)-b-poly(2-vinylpyridine) (PBut-b-P2VP) block copolymer with a composition close to 50/50 wt%. The droplet size, stability and the rheological characteristics were examined as a function of the copolymer concentration. An original aspect of these anhydrous emulsions, with a water miscible continuous phase, is their water dispersibility without additional surfactant. In fact, the initial anhydrous emulsion is sterically stabilized and after water addition at low pH, the protonated P2VP sequence of the copolymer provides the electro-steric stabilization. This oil-in-water emulsion is characterized by sub micron sized Miglyol 812 droplets in an aqueous phase of PEG 400 and water at pH 1.     

Determination of <Emphasis Type="Italic">N</Emphasis>-nitrosodiethanolamine in cosmetic products by LC–MS–MS

We have developed and validated in-house a liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry (LC-MS-MS) method for determination of N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in cosmetics. The sample is diluted with water and then a C18 clean-up is performed. The average recovery of NDELA is 88.3%, range 48.3-112.7%, and the limit of detection is 22.8 microg kg-1. The repeatability is 7.6%, and the intermediate precision is 8.7%. Surveys were carried out in the Netherlands in September and October 2002 to determine the quantities of NDELA in cosmetics marketed in the Netherlands. The LC-MS-MS method was used to determine the NDELA content of 140 cosmetic products including shower gels, hair oils, shampoos and conditioners, cream and foam baths, mud baths, scrubs, creme and other soaps, and body washes. NDELA at levels ranging from 23 to 992 microg kg-1 was found in 35 cosmetic products.     

利用酯化淀粉和油酸甲酯制备高效氯氟氰菊酯水乳剂

以辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠和油酸甲酯分别为替代乳化剂和溶剂,采用浓缩乳化法制备了高度稳定的2.5％高效氯氟氰菊酯水乳剂,通过测定乳液油滴粒径分布,结合乳液外观研究了乳化方法、预处理液中辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠质量分数、转速和剪切时间等工艺条件对乳液稳定性的影响.研究结果表明,辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠对油酸甲酯具有较好乳化效果,以其为乳化剂可制备高度稳定的2.5％高效氯氟氰菊酯水乳剂,油滴平均粒径在1.2 μm左右,且加速试验[即(54±2)℃密封14 d]和常温储存6个月后平均粒径仅增长了0.1～0.3μm,外观无变化;采用浓缩乳化法且预处理液中辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠质量分数在15％～25％时乳液稳定性较好,提高转速可降低油滴平均粒径,但对乳液均一性无显著影响,延长剪切时间对油滴平均粒径影响不大,但有利于提高乳液均一性;辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠为乳化剂制备的高效氯氟氰菊酯水乳剂稳定性优于常规水乳剂.     

Ultrasound-assisted emulsification of cosmetic samples prior to elemental analysis by different atomic spectrometric techniques

In this work, ultrasound-assisted emulsification with a probe system is proposed as a rapid and simple sample treatment for atomic spectrometric determinations (Electrothermal Atomic Absorption Spectrometry, Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometry, Flame Atomic Absorption Spectrometry and Cold Vapour Atomic Absorption Spectrometry) of trace elements (As, Cd, Cr, Cu, Hg, Mg, Mn, Ni, Sr and Zn) in cosmetic samples such as shampoos, gel (hair gel), crèmes (body milk, hair conditioner) and oil (body oil). The type of dispersion medium, the sample mass-to-dispersion medium volume ratio, as well as the parameters related to the ultrasound-assisted emulsification (sonication amplitude and treatment time) were exhaustively studied. Only 1 min of ultrasonic shaking and a dispersion medium containing 0.5% (w/v) of SDS + 3% (v/v) of HNO₃ or HCl allows obtaining a stable emulsion at least for 3 months. Thermal programs, nebulization of emulsions, speed of pumps and concentration of reagents used in cold vapour generation were optimized. Calibration using aqueous standards was feasible in all cases. Calibration by the standard addition method and recovery studies was also applied for validation. Microwave-assisted digestion and Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry were used for comparison purposes. Relative standard deviations from analysis of five independent emulsions were less than 9% in all cases.     

Collaborative study of the determination of cloxacillin by column liquid chromatography

A previously published column liquid chromatographic method proposed for the analysis of cloxacillin preparations was subjected to an interlaboratory collaborative study. The method is rigorously defined in terms of performance requirements, yet allows a degree of flexibility to the individual analyst. Eight participating laboratories submitted results for the analysis of three samples in duplicate. The data from one laboratory were rejected because they failed to meet the prescribed performance criteria. Estimates for the repeatability and reproducibility of the method, expressed as relative standard deviations of the results of the analysis of cloxacillin preparations, were found to be less than 0.65% and 1.33%, respectively.     

Babassu Nanoemulsions Have Physical and Chemical Stability

Babassu is considered one of the greatest native resources in the world and its oil is used in body and hair formulations. The aim of this study was to evaluate the short-term stability in oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions containing babassu oil prepared by emulsification phase inversion submitted to the centrifugation, thermal stress, and heating/cooling cycle tests. The formulations showed no change compared to the droplet size, polydispersity index, pH, and electrical conductivity values after thermal stress and heating/cooling cycle tests. Based on these results, the nanoemulsions obtained can be considered as promising disperse systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.     

Determination of the Real Influence of the Addition of Four Thickening Agents in Creams Using Rheological Measurements

This study aimed to characterize different emulsions obtained by the addition of four thickening agents, using rheological measurements, beyond analyzing the emulsions by polarized light microscopy looking for liquid crystals on them. The addition of these four thickening agents did not modify the base emulsion rheology, only an improvement in the sensory of the formulation was verified. The polarized light microscopy showed the formation of liquid crystalline structures in all the formulations, thus, the thickening agents did not influence in this parameter too. However, the emulsions could be considered appropriated for cosmetic purposes, probably being highly physically stable.     

Application of new synthesized zwitterionic surfactants as hair shampoo components

Abstract

The purpose of the study was to applicate new synthesized zwitterionic surfactants as hair shampoo components. Hair shampoos formulated for the study contained newly synthesized sulfobetaines at a concentration of 2%. The above additives were evaluated to determine their effect on shampoo dynamic viscosity, texture, yield stress, foaming properties and surface tension of aqueous shampoo solutions. The viscosity of the sulfobetaine-enriched hair shampoos ranged between 6,000 and 21,000?mPa·s, which ensures the required application properties of the formulated products. The yield stress in three prototypical shampoos was equal to approximately 10?Pa, which represents the minimum value that should characterize cosmetics of this type. The sulfobetaines added to the formulations were not found to significantly affect the parameters of hardness and adhesive force. All the formulations under study, except for the shampoo containing N-dodecyl-N-piperidinium-1-propanesulfonate, exhibited good foaming properties. The incorporation of sulfobetaines into hair shampoos contributes to an effective decrease in the surface tension of their aqueous solutions, which may indicate beneficial washing properties. The use of the proposed sulfobetaines in hair shampoos favorably modifies their physicochemical and functional properties. The findings of the study can provide useful insights for the formulation of hair shampoos containing zwitterionic surfactants.     

Efficient Extraction of Total Polyphenols from Apple and Investigation of Its SPF Properties

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic emulsions with the addition of hydroalcoholic apple extract. First, the total polyphenolic content, the antioxidant activity and SPF properties of the extracts obtained by sonication and refluxing were evaluated. The two extraction methods were improved using the central composite design. For cosmetic emulsion that contained a different concentration of apple extract (10–40%), a SPF value between 0.51 and 0.90 was obtained. The most efficient apple extract was obtained by reflux using 50% ethanol and a 60 min extraction time. The concentrated extract was incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion whose SPF maximum was 0.90. Accordingly, due to photoprotective properties, the apple extract can be a candidate for use in cosmetic formulations.     

Use of cetyltrimethylammonium bromide as surfactant for the determination of copper and chromium in gasoline emulsions by electrothermal atomic absorption spectrometry

In this work, the use of cetyltrimethylammonium bromide as surfactant for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions for the determination of Cu and Cr in gasoline by electrothermal atomic absorption spectrometry (ET AAS) was evaluated. The surfactant amount was tested in the range of 25 to 300 mg, added to 2 ml of gasoline, and completed to 10 mL with 0.1% (v/v) nitric acid solution. 150 mg of surfactant was found optimum, and a sonication time of 10 min sufficient to form an oil-in-water emulsion that was stable for several hours. The ET AAS temperature program was established based on pyrolysis and atomization curves. The pyrolysis temperatures were set at 700 and 1300 °C for Cu and Cr, respectively and the selected atomization temperatures were 2400 and 2500 °C. The time and temperature of the drying stage and the atomization time were experimentally tested to provide optimum conditions. The limits of detection were found to be 5 μg L^− 1 and 1.5 μg L^− 1 for Cu and Cr, respectively in the original gasoline samples. The relative standard deviation (RSD) ranged from 4 to 9% in oil-in-water emulsions spiked with 5 μg L^− 1 and 15 μg L^− 1 of each metal, respectively. Recoveries varied from 90 to 98%. The accuracy of the proposed method was tested by an alternate procedure using complete evaporation of the gasoline sample. The method was adequate for the determination of Cu and Cr in gasoline samples collected from different gas stations in Salvador, BA, Brazil.     

Characterization of Astaxanthin Nanoemulsions Produced by Intense Fluid Shear through a Self-Throttling Nanometer Range Annular Orifice Valve-Based High-Pressure Homogenizer

Stable, oil-in-water nanoemulsions containing astaxanthin (AsX) were produced by intense fluid shear forces resulting from pumping a coarse reagent emulsion through a self-throttling annular gap valve at 300 MPa. Compared to crude emulsions prepared by conventional homogenization, a size reduction of over two orders of magnitude was observed for AsX-encapsulated oil droplets following just one pass through the annular valve. In krill oil formulations, the mean hydrodynamic diameter of lipid particles was reduced to 60 nm after only two passes through the valve and reached a minimal size of 24 nm after eight passes. Repeated processing of samples through the valve progressively decreased lipid particle size, with an inflection in the rate of particle size reduction generally observed after 2–4 passes. Krill- and argan oil-based nanoemulsions were produced using an Ultra Shear Technology™ (UST™) approach and characterized in terms of their small particle size, low polydispersity, and stability.     

Preparation, heat capacity, and combustion characteristics of water-surfactant-halogenated hydrocarbon microemulsions suitable for combined fire-extinguishing means

Water-sodium dodecyl sulfate-triethanolamine-1-pentanol-1,1,2,2-tetrafluorodibromoethane (C₂F₄Br₂) microemulsions differing in the H₂O/C₂F₄Br₂ ratio and content of surfactants were prepared. The principal possibility of combining halogenated hydrocarbons with water for developing new fire-extinguishing formulations was demonstrated. The emulsions obtained are of the oil-in-water type and are incombustible. The flash point and heat capacity of the systems were determined.     

Quantification of unadsorbed protein and surfactant emulsifiers in oil-in-water emulsions

Unadsorbed emulsifiers affect the physical and chemical behaviour of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. A simple methodology to quantify unadsorbed emulsifiers in the aqueous phase of O/W emulsions has been developed. Emulsions were centrifuged and filtered to separate the aqueous phase from the oil droplets and the concentration of unadsorbed emulsifiers in the aqueous phase determined. The quantification of unadsorbed surfactants based on the direct transesterification of their fatty acids was validated for Tween 20, Tween 80, citric acid ester (Citrem), Span 20 and monolauroyl glycerol. To determine unadsorbed proteins, results obtained with Folin-Ciocalteu reagent or UV-spectrophotometry were compared on emulsions stabilized by β-lactoglobulin (BLG), β-casein (BCN) or bovine serum albumin (BSA). The first method gave more accurate results especially during aging of emulsions in oxidative conditions. The whole methodology was applied to emulsions stabilized with single or mixed emulsifiers. This approach enables optimization of emulsion formulations and could be useful to follow changes in the levels of unadsorbed emulsifiers during physical or chemical aging processes.     

Determination of Zinc Pyrithione in Hair Care Products by Normal Phase Liquid Chromatography

Abstract

A liquid chromatographic method is described for the determination of zinc pyrithione (ZPT) in shampoos, hair conditioners and hair dressings. The method involves simultaneous transchelation to the cupric complex and extraction into methylene chloride. The cupric complex is then separated by normal phase liquid chromatography and detected by UV absorbance at 254 nm. A slight modification of the chromatographic conditions allows the separation of several common impurities. When compared to alternative techniques, this procedure offers improved specificity, precision and accuracy for ZPT, as well as decreased analysis time for multiple samples.     

Influence of free protein on flocculation stability of beta-lactoglobulin stabilized oil-in-water emulsions at neutral pH and ambient temperature

The influence of protein concentration and order of addition relative to homogenization (before or after) on the extent of droplet flocculation in oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by a globular protein was examined using laser diffraction. n-Hexadecane (10 wt%) oil-in-water emulsions (pH 7, 150 mM NaCl) stabilized by beta-lactoglobulin (beta-Lg) were prepared by three methods: (1) 4 mg/mL beta-Lg added before homogenization; (2)10 mg/mL beta-Lg added before homogenization; (3) 4 mg/mL beta-Lg added before homogenization and 6 mg/mL beta-Lg added after homogenization. Emulsion 1 contained little nonadsorbed protein (<3%) and underwent extremely rapid and extensive droplet flocculation immediately after homogenization. Emulsion 2 contained a significant fraction of nonadsorbed beta-Lg and exhibited relatively slow droplet flocculation for some hours after homogenization. Measurements on Emulsion 3 showed that the extremely rapid particle growth observed in Emulsion 1 could be arrested by adding native beta-Lg immediately after homogenization. The extent of particle growth in the three types of emulsions was highly dependent on the time that the salt was added to the emulsions, i.e., after 0 or 24 h aging. We postulate that the observed differences are due to changes in droplet surface hydrophobicity caused by differences in the packing or conformation of adsorbed proteins. Our data suggest that history effects have a strong influence on the flocculation stability of protein-stabilized emulsions, which has important implications for the formulation and production of protein stabilized oil-in-water emulsions.     

Fractional crystallization of oil droplets in O/W emulsions dispersed by Synperonic F127

The aim of this works is to study an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized with a triblock copolymer Synperonic F127 which presents a double size distribution of oil droplets. The emulsions were studied experimentally by means of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and dynamic light scattering (DLS). The DSC analysis was carried out focusing on the cooling behavior of the emulsion. The cooling thermograms of the oil-in-water emulsion revealed two crystallization peaks with Gaussian profile; the interesting characteristic is that both peaks are separated in temperature. In accordance to previous works for a single oil dispersed within an aqueous phase, the DSC technique must show a single Gaussian peak of crystallization attributable to a size distribution of droplets. In the present case of emulsions stabilized with 1 g/L of Synperonic F127, the aggregation behavior of triblock as a function of temperature allows to produce an emulsion with a double size droplet distribution. Comparison with emulsions stabilized with 2 and 4 wt% of non-ionic Tween 20 are also presented.