Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract

Growing scientific evidence indicates that Achillea biebersteinii is a valuable source of active ingredients with potential cosmetic applications. However, the data on its composition and pharmacological properties are still insufficient. This study aims to optimize the extraction procedure of the plant material, evaluate its phytochemical composition, and compare anti-tyrosinase potential of A. biebersteinii extracts obtained by various methods. In order to identify compounds responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii, the most active anti-tyrosinase extract was fractionated by column chromatography. The fractions were examined for their skin lightening potential by mushroom and murine tyrosinase inhibitory assays and melanin release assay. HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis of the total extract revealed the presence of several phenolic acids, flavonoids, flavonoid glucosides, and carboxylic acid. Among them, fraxetin-8-O-glucoside, quercetin-O-glucopyranose, schaftoside/isoschaftoside, gmelinin B, 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQA), and ferulic acid were found in the fractions with the highest skin lightening potential. Based on obtained qualitative and quantitative analysis of the fractions, it was assumed that the caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and dicaffeoylquinic acid derivatives are more likely responsible for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts and fractions. Ferulic acid was proposed as the most active murine tyrosinase inhibitor, responsible also for the reduced melanin release from B16F10 murine melanoma cells.     

Brown Macroalgae Sargassum cristaefolium Extract Inhibits Melanin Production and Cellular Oxygen Stress in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

The brown macroalgae Sargassum has been reported for its anti-UV and photoprotective potential for industrial applications. This study evaluated the melanin inhibition activity of Sargassum cristaefolium (SCE) ethanol extract. Melanogenesis inhibition by SCE was assessed in vitro with B16-F10 melanoma cell models and in silico against melanin regulatory proteins Tyrosinase (TYR) and Melanocortin 1 Receptor (MC1R). The regulatory properties evaluated were the melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity and cellular antioxidant activities. In addition, the bioactive compounds detected in SCE were subjected to molecular docking against TYR and MC1R. Based on the results, 150 µg/mL SCE effectively inhibited the production of melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity. Cellular tyrosinase activity was reduced by SCE-treated cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The results were comparable to the standard tyrosinase inhibitor kojic acid. In addition, SCE effectively decreased the intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in B16-F10 cells. The antioxidant properties may also contribute to the inhibition of melanogenesis. In addition, LCMS UHPLC-HR-ESI-MS profiling detected 33 major compounds. The results based on in silico study revealed that the bioactive compound putative kaurenoic acid showed a strong binding affinity against TYR (−6.5 kcal/mol) and MC1R (−8.6 kcal/mol). However, further molecular analyses are needed to confirm the mechanism of SCE on melanin inhibition. Nevertheless, SCE is proposed as an anti-melanogenic and antioxidant agent, which could be further developed into cosmetic skin care products.     

Evaluation of tyrosinase inhibitory activity in Salak (<Emphasis Type="Italic">Salacca zalacca</Emphasis>) extracts using the digital image-based colorimetric method

A simple toolbox was developed for the evaluation of tyrosinase inhibitory activity in Salak (Salacca zalacca) extracts by the colorimetric measurement based on a photograph taken by a digital camera or a smartphone camera. The reaction of 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-DOPA) and tyrosinase was employed to form the dopaquinone dye, which decreases with the increase of the tyrosinase inhibitor. Under the optimum conditions, the Salak extracts were examined for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The captured picture of dopaquinone dye product was analyzed by reading blue color intensity using an Adobe Photoshop CS6 program. The tyrosinase inhibition of the extracts was calculated from the blue color intensity, and expressed as %inhibition and IC₅₀ values. The obtained results from the developed method correlated well with those obtained from the microplate reader instrument. The achievement of this research will be a guideline for creating any simple analytical instrument based on colorimetry. In addition, the information on tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the Salak extracts is useful for the application of this fruit to produce the supplement food and the cosmetic in the future.     

Chemical Composition,Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibitory Activities of Onosma bourgaei and Onosma trachytricha and in Silico Molecular Docking Analysis of Dominant Compounds

The aim of this study was to investigate the chemical composition, antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities of methanol (MeOH) extracts from Onosma bourgaei (Boiss.) and O. trachytricha (Boiss.). In addition, the interactions between phytochemicals found in extracts in high amounts and the target enzymes in question were revealed at the molecular scale by performing in silico molecular docking simulations. While the total amount of flavonoid compounds was higher in O. bourgaei, O. trachytricha was richer in phenolics. Chromatographic analysis showed that the major compounds of the extracts were luteolin 7-glucoside, apigenin 7-glucoside and rosmarinic acid. With the exception of the ferrous ion chelating assay, O. trachytricha exhibited higher antioxidant activity than O. bourgaei. O. bourgaei exhibited also slightly higher activity on digestive enzymes. The inhibitory activities of the Onosma species on tyrosinase were almost equal. In addition, the inhibitory activities of the extracts on acetylcholinesterase (AChE) were stronger than the activity on butyrylcholinesterase (BChE). Molecular docking simulations revealed that luteolin 7-glucoside and apigenin 7-glucoside have particularly strong binding affinities against ChEs, tyrosinase, α-amylase and α-glucosidase when compared with co-crystallized inhibitors. Therefore, it was concluded that the compounds in question could act as effective inhibitors on cholinesterases, tyrosinase and digestive enzymes.     

Microbial Transformation and Biological Activities of the Prenylated Aromatic Compounds from Broussonetia kazinoki

Broussonetia kazinoki has been used as a traditional medicine for the treatment of burns and acne, and its extracts have been found to show tyrosinase inhibitory and anticancer activities. In this study, the tyrosinase inhibitory and cytotoxic activities of B. kazinoki were explored, leading to the isolation of kazinol C (1), kazinol E (2), kazinol F (3), broussonol N (4), and kazinol X (5), of which the compounds 4 and 5 have not been previously reported. Microbial transformation has been recognized as an efficient tool to generate more active metabolites. Microbial transformation of the major compounds 1 and 3 was conducted with Mucor hiemalis, where four glucosylated metabolites (6–9) were produced from 1, while one hydroxylated (10) and one glucosylated (11) metabolites were obtained from 3. Structures of the isolated metabolites were determined by extensive spectroscopic analyses. All compounds were evaluated for their tyrosinase inhibitory and cytotoxic activities. Compound 3 and its metabolites, kazinol Y (10) and kazinol F-4″-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (11), exhibited the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activities with the IC₅₀ values ranging from 0.71 to 3.36 µM. Meanwhile, none of the metabolites, except for kazinol C-2′,3″-di-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (7), showed moderate cytotoxic activities (IC₅₀ 17.80 to 24.22 µM) against A375P, B16F10 and B16F1 cell lines.     

A Comparative Study between Conventional and Advanced Extraction Techniques: Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Properties of Plant Extracts

This study aimed to compare the influence of extraction methods on the pharmaceutical and cosmetic properties of medicinal and aromatic plants (MAPs). For this purpose, the dried plant materials were extracted using advanced (microwave (MAE), ultrasonic (UAE), and homogenizer (HAE) assisted extractions) and conventional techniques (maceration, percolation, decoction, infusion, and Soxhlet). The tyrosinase, elastase, α-amylase, butyryl, and acetylcholinesterase inhibition were tested by using L-3,4 dihydroxy-phenylalanine, N-Succinyl-Ala-Ala-p-nitroanilide, butyryl, and acetylcholine as respective substrates. Antioxidant activities were studied by ABTS, DPPH, and FRAP. In terms of extraction yield, advanced extraction techniques showed the highest values (MAE > UAE > HAE). Chemical profiles were dependent on the phenolic compounds tested, whereas the antioxidant activities were always higher, mainly in infusion and decoction as a conventional technique. In relation to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic properties, the highest inhibitory activities against α-amylase and acetylcholinesterase were observed for Soxhlet and macerated extracts, whereas the highest activity against tyrosinase was obtained with MAE > maceration > Soxhlet. Elastase and butyrylcholinesterase inhibitory activities were in the order of Soxhlet > maceration > percolation, with no activities recorded for the other tested methods. In conclusion, advanced methods afford an extract with high yield, while conventional methods might be an adequate approach for minimal changes in the biological properties of the extract.     

Characterization and Valorization of the Agricultural Waste Obtained from Lavandula Steam Distillation for Its Reuse in the Food and Pharmaceutical Fields

The main focus of the current research was the characterization of the by-products from the steam distillation of Lavandula angustifolia Mill. (LA) and Lavandula x intermedia Emeric ex Loisel (LI) aerial parts, as they are important sources of bioactive compounds suitable for several applications in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries. The oil-exhausted biomasses were extracted and the total polyphenol and flavonoid contents were, respectively, 19.22 ± 4.16 and 1.56 ± 0.21 mg/g for LA extract and 17.06 ± 3.31 and 1.41 ± 0.10 mg/g for LI extract. The qualitative analysis by liquid chromatography-electrospray tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS) revealed that both the extracts were rich in phenolic acids and glycosylated flavonoids. The extracts exhibited radical scavenging, chelating, reducing activities, and inhibitory capacities on acetylcholinesterase and tyrosinase. The IC50 values against acetylcholinesterase and tyrosinase were, respectively, 5.35 ± 0.47 and 5.26 ± 0.02 mg/mL for LA, and 6.67 ± 0.12 and 6.56 ± 0.16 mg/mL for LI extracts. In conclusion, the oil-exhausted biomasses demonstrated to represent important sources of bioactive compounds, suitable for several applications in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries.     

Antimicrobial,DPPH scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of Thymus vulgaris,Helichrysum arenarium and Rosa damascena mill. ethanol extracts by using TLC bioautography and chemical screening methods

Antimicrobial, DPPH scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of Thymus vulgaris, Helichrysum arenarium and Rosa damascena Mill. ethanol extracts by using TLC bioautography and chemical screening methods. The ethanol extracts of Thymus vulgaris (Tv), Helichrysum arenarium (Ha) and Rosa damascena Mill. (Rm) (red) were screened for their antimicrobial, 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory activities. The test microorganisms included bacteria of Escherichia coli (ATCC 25922) and Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 25923). Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) - bioautography, disk diffusion and well diffusion methods were used for the antimicrobial activity assays. Rosa damascena Mill. extract was effective against E. coli and all plant extracts showed antimicrobial activity against S. aureus. The phenolic acids in the structure of the extracts were also identified by LC-MS analysis. Human blood agar well diffusion method and TLC-DPPH assays were used to identify the hemolytic and antioxidant activity of plant extracts, respectively, along with 10 compounds including phenolic acids as a standard. Among these compounds, caffeic acid (Rf = 0.68) was detected in all extracts while vanillic acid (Rf = 0.75), and gallic acid (Rf = 0.51) was found in Tv extract. Kojic acid (Rf = 0.36), on the other hand, was detected in Rm extract as a tyrosinase inhibitor. All plant extracts presented tyrosinase inhibitory activities on TLC-bioautography assay.     

Tyrosinase inhibitors and insecticidal materials produced by Burkholderia cepacia using squid pen as the sole carbon and nitrogen source

Reports of tyrosinase inhibitors from microorganisms are rare. A tyrosinase inhibitor- and insecticidal materials-producing bacterium, strain TKU026, was isolated from Taiwanese soil and identified as Burkholderia cepacia. Among the tested chitin-containing materials, squid pen best enhanced the production of tyrosinase inhibitors and insecticidal materials. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity (5,000 U/mL) and insecticidal activity (81 %) against Drosophila larvae was maximised after cultivation on 1 % squid pen-containing medium for 3 days. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity persisted even when the culture was treated with acidic or alkaline conditions of pH 3 or 11. The activities of both tyrosinase inhibitors and insecticide remained at 100 %, even after treatment at 100 °C for 30 min. The culture supernatant after 3 days of cultivation also showed antifungal activity against Aspergillus fumigatus and Fusarium oxysporum with maximal activities of 100 and 80 %, respectively, but no antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli was observed. The tyrosinase inhibitors were assumed to be polyphenolic compounds according to the results of chromatography.     

Characterization of the Phytochemical Profiles and Biological Activities of Ajuga chamaepitys subsp. chia var. chia and Ajuga bombycina by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography–Electrospray Ionization–Tandem Mass Spectrometry (HPLC–ESI–MSn)

This study investigates into the pharmacological potential of three solvent extracts (ethyl acetate, methanol, and water) of two Ajuga species (Ajuga chamaepitys subsp. chia var. chia and Ajuga bombycina) based on their antioxidant activity and enzyme inhibitory effects along with establishing the phytochemical profile. Spectrophotometric and high-performance liquid chromatography–electrospray ionization–tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–ESI–MSⁿ) were used to determine the total and individual phytocompounds, respectively. Antioxidant potential was assessed using different assays such as DPPH, ABTS, CUPRAC, FRAP, phosphomolybdenum, and metal chelation. Enzyme inhibitory effects were studied against acetylcholinesterase, butyrylcholinesterase, tyrosinase, α-amylase, and α-glucosidase. The aqueous extract of both plants showed better ABTS scavenging, FRAP, and metal chelating activities. The methanol extracts displayed the highest tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activity in the phosphomolybdenum assay while the ethyl acetate extracts of both plants showed better butyrylcholinesterase (BChE), α-amylase, and α-glucosidase inhibition. The total phenolic content was highest in the aqueous extract of A. chamaepitys while the methanolic extract of A. bombycina showed the highest flavonoid content. Identification by HPLC–ESI–MSⁿ revealed the presence of some individual compounds including phenolic acids, flavonoids, iridoid glycosides, phenylethanoid glycosides, and other compounds. To conclude, both A. chamaepitys and A. bombycina can be considered as rich sources of phytocompounds to manage chronic diseases.     

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using “green solvents” (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract’s composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.     

Phytochemical Fingerprinting and In Vitro Antimicrobial and Antioxidant Activity of the Aerial Parts of Thymus marschallianus Willd. and Thymus seravschanicus Klokov Growing Widely in Southern Kazakhstan

The chemical composition of the hydroethanolic extracts (60% v/v) from the aerial parts of Thymus marschallianus Willd (TM) and Thymus seravschanicus Klokov (TS) from Southern Kazakhstan flora was analyzed together with their hexane fractions. Determination of antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant activities of both extracts was also performed. RP-HPLC/PDA and HPLC/ESI-QTOF-MS showed that there were some differences between the composition of both extracts. The most characteristic components of TM were rosmarinic acid, protocatechuic acid, luteolin 7-O-glucoside, and apigenin 7-O-glucuronide, while protocatechuic acid, luteolin 7-O-glucoside, luteolin 7-O-glucuronide, and eriodictyol predominated in TS. The content of polyplenols was higher in TS than in TM. The GC-MS analysis of the volatile fraction of both examined extracts revealed the presence of thymol and carvacrol. Additionally, sesquiterpenoids, fatty acids, and their ethyl esters were found in TM, and fatty acid methyl esters in TS. The antioxidant activity of both extracts was similar. The antibacterial activity of TS extract was somewhat higher than TM, while antifungal activity was the same. TS extract was the most active against Helicobacter pylori ATCC 43504 with MIC (minimal inhibitory concentration) = 0.625 mg/mL, exerting a bactericidal effect. The obtained data provide novel information about the phytochemistry of both thyme species and suggest new potential application of TS as a source of bioactive compounds, especially with anti-H. pylori activity.     

Validation of a High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detection Method for the Separation and Quantification of Antioxidant and Skin Anti-Aging Flavonoids from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. Stamen Extract

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., or the so-called sacred lotus, is a useful aquatic plant in the Nelumbonaceae family that has long been used to prepare teas, traditional medicines as well as foods. Many studies reported on the phytochemicals and biological activities of its leaves and seeds. However, to date, only few studies were conducted on its stamen, which is the most important ingredient for herbal medicines, teas and other phytopharmaceutical products. Thus, this present study focuses on the following: (1) the application of high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection for a validated separation and quantification of flavonoids from stamen; (2) the Nelumbo nucifera stamen’s in vitro and in cellulo antioxidant activities; as well as (3) its potential regarding the inhibition of skin aging enzymes for cosmetic applications. The optimal separation of the main flavonoids from the stamen ethanolic extract was effectively achieved using a core-shell column. The results indicated that stamen ethanolic extract has higher concentration of in vitro and in cellulo antioxidant flavonoids than other floral components. Stamen ethanolic extract showed the highest protective effect against reactive oxygen/nitrogen species formation, as confirmed by cellular antioxidant assay using a yeast model. The evaluation of potential skin anti-aging action showed that the stamen extract has higher potential to inhibit tyrosinase and collagenase compared with its whole flower. These current findings are the first report to suggest the possibility to employ N. nucifera stamen ethanolic extract as a tyrosinase and collagenase inhibitor in cosmetic applications, as well as the utility of the current separation method.     

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts.     

The Phenolic Compounds Profile and Cosmeceutical Significance of Two Kazakh Species of Onions: Allium galanthum and A. turkestanicum

Numerous species of Allium genus have been used in the traditional medicine based on their vast biological effects, e.g., antimicrobial, digestion stimulant, anti-sclerotic, soothing, antiradical or wound healing properties. In this work, unpolar and polar extracts from two lesser-investigated species of Allium growing in Kazakhstan, Allium galanthum Kar. & Kir. (AG) and A. turkestanicum Regel. (AT), were studied for their composition and biological effects. In the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analyses of water and alcoholic extracts simple organic acids, flavonoids and their glycosides were found to be the best represented group of secondary metabolites. On the other hand, in the GC-MS analysis diethyl ether, extracts were found to be rich sources of straight-chain hydrocarbons and their alcohols, fatty acids and sterols. The antimicrobial activity assessment showed a lower activity of polar extracts, however, the diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs and AG chives showed the strongest activity against Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633, B. cereus ATCC 10876, some species of Staphylococcus (S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. epidermidis ATCC 12228) and all tested Candida species (Candida albicans ATCC 2091, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Candida glabrata ATCC 90030, Candida krusei ATCC 14243 and Candida parapsilosis ATCC 22019) with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.125–0.5 mg/mL. The highest antiradical capacity exhibited diethyl ether extracts from AG bulbs (IC50 = 19274.78 ± 92.11 mg Trolox eq/g of dried extract) in DPPH assay. In ABTS scavenging assay, the highest value of mg Trolox equivalents, 50.85 ± 2.90 was calculated for diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs. The same extract showed the highest inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (82.65 ± 1.28% of enzyme activity), whereas AG bulb ether extract was the most efficient murine tyrosinase inhibitor (54% of the enzyme activity). The performed tests confirm possible cosmeceutical applications of these plants.     

Selectivity Tuning by Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADESs) for Extraction of Bioactive Compounds from Cytinus hypocistis—Studies of Antioxidative,Enzyme-Inhibitive Properties and LC-MS Profiles

In the present study, the extracts of Cytinus hypocistis (L.) L using both traditional solvents (hexane, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, ethanol, ethanol/water, and water) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NADESs) were investigated in terms of their total polyphenolic contents and antioxidant and enzyme-inhibitive properties. The extracts were found to possess total phenolic and total flavonoid contents in the ranges of 26.47–186.13 mg GAE/g and 0.68–12.55 mg RE/g, respectively. Higher total phenolic contents were obtained for NADES extracts. Compositional differences were reported in relation to antioxidant potential studied by several assays (DPPH: 70.19–939.35 mg TE/g, ABTS: 172.56–4026.50 mg TE/g; CUPRAC: 97.41–1730.38 mg TE/g, FRAP: 84.11–1534.85 mg TE/g). Application of NADESs (choline chloride—urea 1:2, a so-called Reline) allowed one to obtain the highest number of extracts having antioxidant potential in the radical scavenging and reducing assays. NADES-B (protonated by HCl L-proline-xylitol 5:1) was the only extractant from the studied solvents that isolated a specific fraction without chelating activity. Reline extract exhibited the highest acetylcholinesterase inhibition compared to NADES-B and NADES-C (protonated by H₂SO₄ L-proline-xylitol 5:1) extracts, which showed no inhibition. The NADES extracts were observed to have higher tyrosinase inhibitory properties compared to extracts obtained by traditional organic solvents. Furthermore, the NADES extracts were relatively better inhibitors of the diabetic enzymes. These findings provided an interesting comparison in terms of total polyphenolic content yields, antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory properties (cholinesterase, amylase, glucosidase, and tyrosinase) between traditional solvent extracts and NADES extracts, used as an alternative. While the organic solvents showed better antioxidant activity, the NADES extracts were found to have some other improved properties, such as higher total phenolic content and enzyme-inhibiting properties, suggesting functional prospects for their use in phytonutrient extraction and fractionation. The obtained results could also be used to give a broad overview of the different biological potentials of C. hypocistis.     

Enzymatic synthesis of kojic acid esters and their potential industrial applications

In this paper, enzymatic methods for the synthesis of 5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one (kojic acid) esters are reviewed. Important process parameters related to the synthesis of kojic acid esters such as the type of immobilized lipase, solvent, temperature, initial water activity, water content, pH, metal salts, enzyme loading, substrates mole ratio, and acyl donors are highlighted and discussed. The properties of kojic acid esters related to their solubility, stability, cytotoxicity, depigmenting activity, tyrosinase inhibitory, metal-chelating, anti-oxidant, and other biological activities are also highlighted. At present, kojic acid and its esters are widely used in cosmetic and skin health industries as skin whitening agents. The advantages and disadvantages of various kojic acid esters are compared and possible industrial applications of these derivatives are also discussed.     

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.     

Assessing the In Vitro Inhibitory Effects on Key Enzymes Linked to Type-2 Diabetes and Obesity and Protein Glycation by Phenolic Compounds of Lauraceae Plant Species Endemic to the Laurisilva Forest

Methanolic leaf extracts of four Lauraceae species endemic to Laurisilva forest (Apollonias barbujana, Laurus novocanariensis, Ocotea foetens and Persea indica) were investigated for the first time for their potential to inhibit key enzymes linked to type-2 diabetes (α-amylase, α-glucosidase, aldose reductase) and obesity (pancreatic lipase), and protein glycation. Lauraceae extracts revealed significant inhibitory activities in all assays, altough with different ability between species. In general, P. indica showed the most promissing results. In the protein glycation assay, all analysed extracts displayed a stronger effect than a reference compound: aminoguanidine (AMG). The in vitro anti-diabetic, anti-obesity and anti-glycation activities of analysed extracts showed correlation with their flavonols and flavan-3-ols (in particular, proanthocyanins) contents. These Lauraceae species have the capacity to assist in adjuvant therapy of type-2 diabetes and associated complications, through modulation of the activity of key metabolic enzymes and prevention of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) formation.     

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.