基于Boussinesq方程的波浪模型

从欧拉方程出发,提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法,并对方程的 线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进. 改进后方程的线性色散关系达到了一阶Stokes波 色散关系的Pad\'{e}[4,4]近似,在相对水深达1.0的强色散波浪时仍保持较高的准确性,并且方程的非线性和线性 变浅率都得到了不同程度的改善. 方程的水平一维形式用预估-校正的有限差分格式求解, 建立了一个适合较强非线性波浪的Boussinesq波浪数值模型. 作为验证,模拟了波浪在潜 堤上的传播变形,计算结果和实验数据的比较发现两者符合良好.     

促进其线性频散特征另一种形式的Bousinesq方程

Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能够用于模拟表面重力波传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及浅化，非线性作用等现象．用不同垂直积分方法所得到的二维Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程形式具有不同的线性频散特征．采用两个不同的水深层的水平速度变量组合，推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程．通过对其参数的设置可得到精确的线性频散解Ｐａｄｅ近似４阶精度．其适用范围已由原来的浅水，向深水拓进．相速误差小于２％，其拓展适用范围可达到０８个波长水深．应用所得到的新型Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，采用有限差分法，对经典工况进行了数值模拟，其计算结果表明，计算值与物模实验值吻合较好．这说明本文新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程对变水深非线性效应所产生的能量频散有着较为精确的描述     

论一类四阶Boussinesq方程的变浅性能

Boussinesq 类水波模型在港口、海岸以及海洋工程领域应用广泛,但以前对这类模型的变浅性能的研究不够充分. 针对Madsen 和Sch?ffer 提出的一组四阶Boussinesq 方程,从理论和数值两个方面对这一问题进行了探讨. 理论分析了其变浅性能,指出该文献中参数α₂ 和β₂ 的取值是不合理的,并重新确定其取值. 在交错网格下建立了基于混合4 阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton 格式的预报-校正数值模型. 数值模拟了两个典型算例: 一是缓变平坡地形上波浪的传播变形,二是波浪在淹没梯形潜堤上的波浪演化过程. 计算结果分别与解析结果、物理模型实验结果进行了比较,发现变浅系数的取值对数值结果影响很大,新参数比原文参数模拟结果的吻合程度更高,这佐证了理论分析.      

ON SHOALING PROPERTY OF A SET OFFOURTH DISPERSIVE BOUSSINESQ MODEL

Boussinesq 类水波模型在港口、海岸以及海洋工程领域应用广泛,但以前对这类模型的变浅性能的研究不够充分. 针对Madsen 和Schäffer 提出的一组四阶Boussinesq 方程,从理论和数值两个方面对这一问题进行了探讨. 理论分析了其变浅性能,指出该文献中参数α₂ 和β₂ 的取值是不合理的,并重新确定其取值. 在交错网格下建立了基于混合4 阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton 格式的预报-校正数值模型. 数值模拟了两个典型算例： 一是缓变平坡地形上波浪的传播变形,二是波浪在淹没梯形潜堤上的波浪演化过程. 计算结果分别与解析结果、物理模型实验结果进行了比较,发现变浅系数的取值对数值结果影响很大,新参数比原文参数模拟结果的吻合程度更高,这佐证了理论分析.     

促进其线性频散特征另一种形式的Bousinesq方程

Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能够用于模拟表面重力波传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及浅化，非线性作用等现象．用不同垂直积分方法所得到的二维Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程形式具有不同的线性频散特征．采用两个不同的水深层的水平速度变量组合，推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程．通过对其参数的设置可得到精确的线性频散解Ｐａｄｅ近似４阶精度．其适用范围已由原来的浅水，向深水拓进．相速误差小于２％，其拓展适用范围可达到０８个波长水深．应用所得到的新型Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，采用有限差分法，对经典工况进行了数值模拟，其计算结果表明，计算值与物模实验值吻合较好．这说明本文新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程对变水深非线性效应所产生的能量频散有着较为精确的描述     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations for modeling deep‐water waves

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model, combined with the embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations, a reference velocity, and an adapted top‐layer control, is developed to study the evolution of deep‐water waves. The advantage of using the Boussinesq‐type‐like equations with the reference velocity is to provide an analytical‐based non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution at the top‐layer and to optimize wave dispersion property. The σ‐based non‐hydrostatic model naturally tackles the so‐called overshooting issue in the case of non‐linear steep waves. Efficiency and accuracy of this non‐hydrostatic model in terms of wave dispersion and nonlinearity are critically examined. Overall results show that the newly developed model using a few layers is capable of resolving the evolution of non‐linear deep‐water wave groups. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boussinesq方程的发展形式与Airy波理论差异性研究

应用势流理论，采用递推函数方法推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程。通过对新方程的参数设置，可以讨论出Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程发展趋势和不同的发展形式。对浅水波动的描述方程，Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的发展趋势为适用水深范围的拓展。拓展应用范围的大小则由其方程频散特征向Ａｉｒｙ波频散解逼近程度来决定。而Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｑ方程又不同于Ａｉｒｙ波，主要原因是Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程中含有线性频散项，Ａｉｒｙ波则只是长波首项近似，无线性频散项。其频散特征为精确的线性频散解。对实际水波传播而言，Ａｉｒｙ波理论的局限性是不言而喻的。     

Hybrid finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations

A hybrid scheme composed of finite‐volume and finite‐difference methods is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. While the finite‐volume method with a Riemann solver is applied to the conservative part of the equations, the higher‐order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy in space for the finite‐volume solution is achieved using the MUSCL‐TVD scheme. Within this, four limiters have been tested, of which van‐Leer limiter is found to be the most suitable. The Adams–Basforth third‐order predictor and Adams–Moulton fourth‐order corrector methods are used to obtain fourth‐order accuracy in time. A recently introduced surface gradient technique is employed for the treatment of the bottom slope. A new model ‘HYWAVE’, based on this hybrid solution, has been applied to a number of wave propagation examples, most of which are taken from previous studies. Examples include sinusoidal waves and bi‐chromatic wave propagation in deep water, sinusoidal wave propagation in shallow water and sinusoidal wave propagation from deep to shallow water demonstrating the linear shoaling properties of the model. Finally, sinusoidal wave propagation over a bar is simulated. The results are in good agreement with the theoretical expectations and published experimental results. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Solving a fully nonlinear highly dispersive Boussinesq model with mesh‐less least square‐based finite difference method

Combining mesh‐less finite difference method and least square approximation, a new numerical model is developed for water wave propagation model in two horizontal dimensions. In the numerical formulation of the method, the approximation of the unknown functions and their derivatives are constructed on a set of nodes in a local circular‐shaped region. The Boussinesq equations studied in this paper is a fully nonlinear and highly dispersive model, which is composed of the exact boundary conditions and the truncated series expansion solution of the Laplace equation. The resultant system involves a sparse, unsymmetrical matrix to be solved at each time step of the simulation. Matrix solutions are studied to reduce the computing resource requirements and improve the efficiency and accuracy. The convergence properties of the present numerical method are investigated. Preliminary verifications are given for nonlinear wave shoaling problems; the numerical results agree well with experimental data available in the literature. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves on uneven bottom

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain. The free surface velocities and the bottom velocities were connected by the exact solution of the Laplace equation. Taking the velocities on half relative water depth as the fundamental unknowns, terms relating to the gradient of the water depth were retained in the inverse series expansion of the exact solution, with which the problem was closed. With enhancements of the finite order Taylor expansion for the velocity field, the application range of the present model was extended to the slope bottom which is not so mild. For linear properties, some validation computations of linear shoaling and Booij' s tests were carried out. The problems of wave-current interactions were also studied numerically to test the performance of the enhanced Boussinesq equations associated with the effect of currents. All these computational results confirm perfectly to the theoretical solution as well as other numerical solutions of the full potential problem available.     

A new fully non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface flow model for water wave motions

A new fully non‐hydrostatic model is presented by simulating three‐dimensional free surface flow on a vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. A projection method, known as pressure correction technique, is employed to solve the incompressible Euler equations. A new grid arrangement is proposed under a horizontal Cartesian grid framework and vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. The resulting model is relatively simple. Moreover, the discretized Poisson equation for pressure correction is symmetric and positive definite, and thus it can be solved effectively by the preconditioned conjugate gradient method. Several test cases of surface wave motion are used to demonstrate the capabilities and numerical stability of the model. Comparisons between numerical results and analytical or experimental data are presented. It is shown that the proposed model could accurately and effectively resolve the motion of short waves with only two layers, where wave shoaling, nonlinearity, dispersion, refraction, and diffraction phenomena occur. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Internal waves in a two‐layer system using fully nonlinear internal‐wave equations

In order to understand the nonlinear effect in a two‐layer system, fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal‐wave equations, based on a variational principle, were proposed in this study. A simple iteration method was used to solve the internal‐wave equations in order to solve the equations stably. The applicability of the proposed numerical computation scheme was confirmed to agree with linear dispersion relation theoretically obtained from variational principle. The proposed computational scheme was also shown to reproduce internal waves including higher‐order nonlinear effect from the analysis of internal solitary waves in a two‐layer system. Furthermore, for the second‐order numerical analysis, the balance of nonlinearity and dispersion was found to be similar to the balance assumed in the KdV theory and the Boussinesq‐type equations. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A new numerical model for simulations of wave transformation,breaking and long‐shore currents in complex coastal regions

In this paper, we propose a model based on a new contravariant integral form of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking, and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The aforementioned contravariant integral form, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is characterized by the fact that the continuity equation does not include any dispersive term. A procedure developed in order to correct errors related to the difficulties of numerically satisfying the metric identities in the numerical integration of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation on generalized boundary‐conforming grids is presented. The Boussinesq equation system is numerically solved by a hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The proposed high‐order upwind weighted essentially non‐oscillatory finite volume scheme involves an exact Riemann solver and is based on a genuinely two‐dimensional reconstruction procedure, which uses a convex combination of biquadratic polynomials. The wave breaking is represented by discontinuities of the weak solution of the integral form of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly represent wave propagation, wave breaking, and wave‐induced currents is verified against test cases present in the literature. The results obtained are compared with experimental measures, analytical solutions, or alternative numerical solutions. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Stable,high-order computation of traveling water waves in three dimensions

The Euler equations of free-surface ocean dynamics constitute a model of central importance in fluid mechanics due to the wide range of physical phenomena they are intended to represent, from shoaling and breaking of waves in nearshore regions to energy and momentum transport in the open ocean. From a mathematical perspective, these equations present rather unique challenges for analysis and simulation as they couple the subtleties of nonlinear wave equations (balancing nonlinearity with dispersion in the absence of dissipation) to the difficulties of free-boundary problems. In this paper a new, stable high-order boundary perturbation algorithm for the numerical simulation of traveling water waves is described. Its performance is compared to that of classical surface deformation algorithms and it is shown that the new scheme displays significantly enhanced conditioning properties and a lower computational cost, which enable very accurate predictions of physical observables such as velocity, energy, height/steepness, and shape.     

Numerical study on Fermi–Pasta–Ulam–Tsingou problem for 1D shallow-water waves

Beginning with the first mode as the initial condition, long-term evolutions of gravity waves in shallow water are simulated based on the full nonlinear Boussinesq model. Evident recurrence is observed in long basins with appropriate initial amplitudes. Equipartition can be obtained in the case of a long basin, large initial amplitude or a long evolution time. Well-defined solitary waves are present during the recurrence stage and completely lost at the equipartition stage. The transition from regular to chaotic motion is conjectured to be related to the ratio of the dispersion and nonlinearity of the initial condition. For short basins with small initial amplitudes, nonlinearity is much smaller than dispersion, energy transfer is weak, and no recurrence can be observed. If dispersion and nonlinearity are chosen to be the same order in the initial condition, recurrence clearly emerges. However, if nonlinearity is chosen to be larger than dispersion, recurrence is absent and the system reaches equipartition rapidly.     

Higher order dispersive effects in regularized Boussinesq equation

In this paper, we consider the higher order Boussinesq (HBq) equation which models the bi-directional propagation of longitudinal waves in various continuous media. The equation contains the higher order effects of frequency dispersion. The present study is devoted to the numerical investigation of the HBq equation. For this aim a numerical scheme combining the Fourier pseudo-spectral method in space and a Runge–Kutta method in time is constructed. The convergence of semi-discrete scheme is proved in an appropriate Sobolev space. To investigate the higher order dispersive effects and nonlinear effects on the solutions of HBq equation, propagation of single solitary wave, head-on collision of solitary waves and blow-up solutions are considered.     

破碎带波浪的数值模拟

基于一组色散关系得到改进的完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立了一个波浪模型可以模拟近岸水域的波浪变浅、破碎以及在海滩上的爬高等多种变形。波浪破碎引起的能量衰减是在动量方程中引入一个在空间和时间上都只作用于波前的涡粘项来模拟。动海岸线边界用窄缝法处理。波浪爬高用非线性浅水方程推导的非破碎波浪在斜坡上爬高的解析解来验证。本模型还模拟了波浪在斜坡上不同类型的破碎变形过程,并将其波高和平均水位的沿程变化和物理模型实验的结果比较,两者符合良好。     

On Boussinesq's paradigm in nonlinear wave propagation

Boussinesq's original derivation of his celebrated equation for surface waves on a fluid layer opened up new horizons that were to yield the concept of the soliton. The present contribution concerns the set of Boussinesq-like equations under the general title of ‘Boussinesq's paradigm’. These are true bi-directional wave equations occurring in many physical instances and sharing analogous properties. The emphasis is placed: (i) on generalized Boussinesq systems that involve higher-order linear dispersion through either additional space derivatives or additional wave operators (so-called double-dispersion equations); and (ii) on the ‘mechanics’ of the most representative localized nonlinear wave solutions. Dissipative cases and two-dimensional generalizations are also considered. To cite this article: C.I. Christov et al., C. R. Mecanique 335 (2007).