An Overview of the Analytical Methods for the Determination of Organic Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetic Products and Human Samples

UV filters are a group of compounds commonly used in different cosmetic products to absorb UV radiation. They are classified into a variety of chemical groups, such as benzophenones, salicylates, benzotriazoles, cinnamates, p-aminobenzoates, triazines, camphor derivatives, etc. Different tests have shown that some of these chemicals are absorbed through the skin and metabolised or bioaccumulated. These processes can cause negative health effects, including mutagenic and cancerogenic ones. Due to the absence of official monitoring protocols, there is an increased number of analytical methods that enable the determination of those compounds in cosmetic samples to ensure user safety, as well as in biological fluids and tissues samples, to obtain more information regarding their behaviour in the human body. This review aimed to show and discuss the published studies concerning analytical methods for the determination of organic UV filters in cosmetic and biological samples. It focused on sample preparation, analytical techniques, and analytical performance (limit of detection, accuracy, and repeatability).     

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.     

Multi-Target Strategy to Uncover Unexpected Compounds in Rinse-Off and Leave-On Cosmetics

The wide range and complexity of cosmetic formulations currently available on the market poses a challenge from an analytical point of view. In addition, during cosmetics manufacture, impurities coming from raw materials or formed by reaction of different organic compounds present in the formulation may be present. Their identification is mandatory to assure product quality and consumer health. In this work, micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μMSPD) is proposed as a multi-target sample preparation strategy to analyze a wide number of unexpected families of compounds including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), pesticides, plasticizers, nitrosamines, alkylphenols (APs), and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs). Analytical determination was performed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for the determination of 51 target compounds in a single run, whereas liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was employed for the analysis of six APs and APEOs. Both methodologies were successfully validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics. Limits of detection (LODs) were calculated in the low ng g⁻¹, showing their suitability to determine trace levels of impurities and banned compounds with different chemical natures, providing useful tools to cosmetic control laboratories and companies.     

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.     

化妆品样品前处理与检测技术研究进展

随着我国经济和人民生活水平的不断提高,作为日常消费品的化妆品产业发展迅猛,其安全性日益受到广泛关注。随之而来的化妆品检测量的大幅增长对检测技术提出了更高的要求。传统样品前处理和检测技术因有机试剂消耗量大,检测通量低、检测周期长已无法满足当前绿色化学发展和高通量检测的需求。对此,科研人员开发了一系列环境友好型前处理技术以及高通量现场快速检测方法,为化妆品质量安全保驾护航。该文综述了当前化妆品样品前处理及检测技术的研究进展,并展望了其发展趋势和应用前景,以期为从事化妆品检测的科研和检验人员提供技术参考。     

The first quantitative rating system of the antioxidant capacity of beauty creams via the Briggs-Rauscher reaction: a crucial step towards evidence-based cosmetics

Oxidative damage is the primary cause of skin aging. Skin care products are numerous and overwhelming, yet there is certain similarity among different formulations. Moisturizers are ubiquitous and the presence of particular added ingredients supports specific marketing claims. The antioxidant effects of botanical polyphenols possess tremendous marketing appeal, because oxidative stress is caused by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the skin ability to neutralize them. The concept of evidence-based cosmetics lacks a widely accepted method to estimate the antioxidant capacity of the beauty cream. This was the motive force of the present study: for the first time we put forth a quantitative rating system of skin care products. The overall antioxidant power of 75 widely used and advertised beauty creams was comparatively measured via the oscillating Briggs-Rauscher (BR) reaction. Many dermocosmetic products confirmed their ability to ensure protection against free radicals, even if differences among various creams are striking and often not correlated with the their price. The method we developed is simple and cheap and it can allow dermatologists and consumers to compare and choose effectively; on the other hand, producers can used this method to select the most active antioxidant cosmetic agent to optimise the product performance.     

Determination of Phenolic Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry

An analytical method for the simultaneous determination of bisphenol A, 4-t-octylphenol, 4-n-octylphenol, and 4-n-nonylphenol in cosmetic samples has been developed. These compounds have toxic effects on human health as they have shown to produce endocrine disrupting properties. Therefore, their presence in cosmetics should be avoided according to the current European Regulations on cosmetic products. The method is based on high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) detection. Standard addition calibration was used to avoid matrix effects. The limits of detection values ranged between 7 and 15?ng?mL^?1 (threefold of the residual standard deviation of regression lines). The proposed method was validated, and good recovery (90–106%) and repeatability values (2.7–8.2%) were obtained. Finally, the method was successfully applied to ten commercially available cosmetic samples. The good analytical features of the proposed method make it useful to carry out the quality control of cosmetic products and raw materials to assure the safety of users.     

Use of grapevine cell cultures for the production of phytostilbenes of cosmetic interest

Plant cell cultures constitute pesticide-free sources for obtaining plant secondary metabolites or plant extracts. Additionally, they do not contain any fungal contaminants, mycotoxins or heavy metals providing to the consumer potential health benefits and justifying the development of this technology at an industrial scale. Significant production levels of these secondary metabolites can be obtained through the use of elicitors, which activate plant defense mechanisms. Resveratrol, a well-known grapevine polyphenolic compound which possesses potent antioxidant and antiaging activities as well as a protective action on skin, is a good example of such plant secondary metabolites. Resveratrol and its oligomeric derivatives are used by several companies of cosmetic products but their extraction from vine stems and similar vegetal sources remains difficult. Therefore grapevine cell suspensions could represent interesting systems for the large-scale bioproduction of those compounds. Here we present an update of the methods used for the production of phytostilbenes by using grapevine cell cultures and the results obtained.     

A tandem ionic liquid-based dispersive microextraction method using in-syringe air-assisted vesicle system for rapid determination of lead and cadmium in artificial sweat extract of facial cosmetic products

In the present study an innovative tandem ionic liquid-based dispersive microextraction method using an in-syringe air-assisted vesicle system was developed to determine the ultra-trace levels of lead (Pb^II) and cadmium (Cd^II) ions in synthetic sweat extract of branded and nonbranded facial cosmetic products. This method is based on injecting 2-amino-3-sulfhydrylpropanoic acid (l -cysteine) (as an eco-friendly chelating agent), hexafluorophosphate ion [PF₆⁻] (as an ion pair agent) and 1-hexyl-3-methylimidazolium hexafluorophosphate [HMIM] [PF₆] (as an acceptor phase) into the synthetic sweat extract of facial cosmetic products (branded and nonbranded). The acceleration of the dispersion process was carried out by rapid pressure in the syringe through the back-and-forth movement of plunger. The sediment phase was removed following centrifugation, and then hydrophobic complexes of analyte were back-extracted into HNO₃ and finally injected into a flame atomic absorption spectrometer. Several factors were systematically optimized. The validity of the methodology was tested by analyzing spiked known standards of both metals in a real sample. The proposed method was applied to the artificial sweat extracts of face makeup products, indicating how much toxic metals from different cosmetics are directly absorbed into skin.     

A mini-review on limitations associated with UV filters

Ultraviolet light from the sun can produce long-term skin damage and cancer. The use of sunscreen products containing one or more UV filters is encouraged by health professionals for preventing the damaging effects resulting from sun exposure. However, recently there have been increasing concerns about the use of sunscreens and their safety for both humans and the environment. The sunscreen manufacturers should take the initiative in testing of the products for possible short-term skin toxicity and long-term health effects that might occur due to the absorption of UV filters through the skin. Published studies have shed light on this topic by investigating the harmful effects of UV filters such as oxybenzone on the hormone system of aquatic animals and humans. Currently, in vitro and in vivo animal models are being used to determine the mechanistic and cellular effects these products produce. With growing awareness of adverse effects posed by UV filters on the environment and exposed organisms, several jurisdictions are prohibiting their use in sunscreens. To our knowledge, very few reviews summarized the potential toxicities associated with UV filters. Therefore, the current reported findings are rather controversial due to the lack of nonclinical safety assessment data to determine the clinical significance of such exposure.     

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry—The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.     

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts.     

Determination of preservatives in cosmetic products. I. Thin-layer chromatographic procedure for the identification of preservatives in cosmetic products

A thin-layer chromatographic procedure is presented for the separation and identification of preservatives that are listed in the current EEC Council Directive on cosmetic products or have been permitted in the past. The method consists of an extraction of acidified cosmetics with methanol, separation of the extracts by thin-layer chromatography on aluminium oxide and silica gel-coated plates using one developing solvent, and visualization of the preservatives on the plates using short-wavelength UV light and six detection reagents. The retention behaviour and the detectability of 88 preservatives were investigated, of which 74 were characterized by this method. The preservatives in fourteen commercial cosmetic products were tentatively identified by the procedure described. In general this method will permit the routine detection of preservatives in cosmetics in an approximate concentration of 0.1% (w/w).     

Metabolite Fingerprinting Based on 1H-NMR Spectroscopy and Liquid Chromatography for the Authentication of Herbal Products

Herbal medicines (HMs) are regarded as one of the traditional medicines in health care to prevent and treat some diseases. Some herbal components such as turmeric and ginger are used as HMs, therefore the identification and confirmation of herbal use are very necessary. In addition, the adulteration practice, mainly motivated to gain economical profits, may occur by substituting the high price of HMs with lower-priced ones or by addition of certain chemical constituents known as Bahan Kimia Obat (chemical drug ingredients) in Indonesia. Some analytical methods based on spectroscopic and chromatographic methods are developed for the authenticity and confirmation of the HMs used. Some approaches are explored during HMs authentication including single-component analysis, fingerprinting profiles, and metabolomics studies. The absence of reference standards for certain chemical markers has led to exploring the fingerprinting approach as a tool for the authentication of HMs. During fingerprinting-based spectroscopic and chromatographic methods, the data obtained were big, therefore the use of chemometrics is a must. This review highlights the application of fingerprinting profiles using variables of spectral and chromatogram data for authentication in HMs. Indeed, some chemometrics techniques, mainly pattern recognition either unsupervised or supervised, were applied for this purpose.     

Determination of methyldibromoglutaronitrile in cosmetic products by high-performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection. Method validation

An increased frequency of contact allergy to methyldibromoglutaronitrile (MDBGN), a commonly used preservative in cosmetics and other consumer products, has been reported in recent years. A high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of MDBGN in cosmetic products has been validated in the present study. The identification is performed by reductive electrochemical detection of the bromine present in the molecule. The method is suitable for compliance testing of cosmetic products as well as for the research to support clinical and epidemiological studies.     

超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱法测定防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分

建立了超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱(UPLC-Q-TOF-MS)法,结合高分辨质谱数据库,用于快速筛查及定量分析防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分.实验比较了提取溶剂的影响,优化了色谱条件和质谱条件.采用ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18色谱柱(100 mm×2.1 mm,1.7μm)进行色谱分离,以乙...     

Characterization of Fatty Acids,Polysaccharides, Amino Acids,and Minerals in Marine Macroalga Chaetomorpha crassa and Evaluation of Their Potentials in Skin Cosmetics

Cosmetic industries are highly committed to finding natural sources of functional active constituents preferable to safer materials to meet consumers’ demands. Marine macroalgae have diversified bioactive constituents and possess potential benefits in beauty care products. Hence, the present study was carried out to characterize the biochemical profile of marine macroalga Chaetomorpha crassa by using different techniques for revealing its cosmetic potentials. In results, the FTIR study characterized the presence of different bioactive functional groups that are responsible for many skin-beneficial compounds whereas six and fifteen different important phycocompounds were found in GCMS analysis of ethanolic and methanolic extracts, respectively. In the saccharide profile of C. crassa, a total of eight different carbohydrate derivatives were determined by the HRLCMS Q-TOF technique, which showed wide varieties of cosmetic interest. In ICP AES analysis, Si was found to be highest whereas Cu was found to be lowest among other elements. A total of twenty-one amino acids were measured by the HRLCMS-QTOF technique, which revealed the highest amount of the amino acid, Aspartic acid (1207.45 nmol/mL) and tyrosine (106.77 nmol/mL) was found to be the lowest in amount among other amino acids. Their cosmetic potentials have been studied based on previous research studies. The incorporation of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics has been extensively growing due to its skin health-promoting effects.     

Analysis of multi-class preservatives in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion

Matrix solid-phase extraction has been successfully applied for the determination of multi-class preservatives in a wide variety of cosmetic samples including rinse-off and leave-on products. After extraction, derivatization with acetic anhydride, and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry analysis were performed. Optimization studies were done on real non-spiked and spiked leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as factorial experimental designs. The final optimized conditions were common for both groups of cosmetics and included the dispersion of the sample with Florisil (1:4), and the elution of the MSPD column with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). After derivatization, the extract was analyzed without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. The recovery studies on leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics gave satisfactory values (>78% for all analytes in all the samples) with an average relative standard deviation value of 4.2%. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. The analysis of a broad range of cosmetics including body milk, moisturizing creams, anti-stretch marks creams, hand creams, deodorant, shampoos, liquid soaps, makeup, sun milk, hand soaps, among others, demonstrated the high use of most of the target preservatives, especially butylated hydroxytoluene, methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.     

Development of a natural ingredient – Natural preservative: A case study

Lately, the cosmetic and personal care market has been more and more driven toward natural ingredients by the rising consumers' awareness about personal health and safety and their will for safer cosmetics free of harmful chemicals. Preservatives are no exception to the rule: evidence or suspicion of the toxicity of certain synthetic preservatives that have been around for decades pushed the cosmetic industry forward to seek for natural alternatives, as the selection of natural preservatives already available is quite limited. Sourcing active metabolites and developing new natural ingredients are long-term procedures that are thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of a natural preservative based on the Santolina chamaecyparissus extract, and of the assessments of its preservative effectiveness.