非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应，并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的 最新研究进展，运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方 程. 假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成：慢变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度大于 表面波的波长；快变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶，但其振幅小于表面 波的振幅. 另外，多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级. 针对水体层和多孔介质层，选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程， 它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性， 并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.     

Propagation of weakly nonlinear disturbances of the interface between two layers of fluid

The dynamics of internal waves of small but finite amplitude in a two-layer fluid system bounded by rigid horizontal surfaces at bottom and top is investigated theoretically. For linear disturbances of the fluid interface the authors propose a polynomial approximation of the dispersion relation which has the same asymptotics as the exact formula in the limiting situations of very long and short waves. In the case of three-dimensional, weakly nonlinear disturbances of slowly varying shape (in the coordinate system moving with the wave) an equation like the wave equation is derived. This equation has Stokes solutions coinciding with the well-known results for infinitely deep layers. For fairly long disturbances solitary solutions of the model wave equation which fit the experimental data are determined. Novosibirsk. Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Akademii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No.1, pp. 125–131, January–February, 1994.     

Extended Mild-Slope Equation

ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＡｃｃｕｒａｔｅｍｏｄｅｌｌｉｎｇｏｆｓｕｒｆａｃｅｗａｖｅｄｙｎａｍｉｃｓｉｎｃｏａｓｔａｌｒｅｇｉｏｎｓｈａｓｂｅｅｎｔｈｅｇｏａｌｏｆｍｕｃｈｒｅｃｅｎｔｒｅｓｅａｒｃｈ ,ｗｈｉｃｈｈａｓｂｅｅｎｓｕｍｍａｒｉｚｅｄｉｎｓｕｒｖｅｙｓｂｙＤｉｎｇｅｍａｎｓ( 1 997) [1]ａｎｄＫｉｒｂｙ( 1 997) [2 ].Ｔｈｅｒｉｃｈｎｅｓｓｏｆｃｏａｓｔａｌｗａｖｅｄｙｎａｍｉｃｓａｒｉｓｅｓｆｒｏｍｔｈｅｓｔｒｏｎｇａｍｂｉｅｎｔｃｕｒｒｅｎｔｓａｎｄｔｈｅｗｉｄｅｖａｒｉａｔｉｏｎｓ…     

Nonlinear surface waves on a ferromagnetic fluid of variable depth

A nonlinear ray method is used to study surface waves on a ferromagnetic fluid of variable depth subject to a horizontal magnetic field, and an equation of the KdV type with variable coefficients is derived. An approximate solution of the equation representing a three-dimensional soliton with varying amplitude and phase is constructed and numerical results are presented.     

The splitting of solitary waves running over a shallower water

The Korteweg-de Vries type of equation (called KdV-top) for uni-directional waves over a slowly varying bottom that has been derived by Van Groesen and Pudjaprasetya [E. van Groesen, S.R. Pudjaprasetya, Uni-directional waves over slowly varying bottom. Part I. Derivation of a KdV-type of equation, Wave Motion 18 (1993) 345–370.] is used to describe the splitting of solitary waves, running over shallower water, into two (or more) waves. Results of numerical computations with KdV-top are presented; qualitative and quantitative comparisons between the analytical and numerical results show a good agreement.     

Effect of periodic bottom roughness on gravitational waves in a liquid

The effect of a rigid bottom of periodic form on small periodic oscillations of the free surface of a liquid is considered with the assumption of low amplitude roughness. The methodologically most significant study in this direction, [1], will be utilized. In [1] the steady-state problem for flow over an arbitrarily rough bottom was studied. Other studies have recently appeared on small free oscillations above a rough bottom. Essentially these have considered the effect of underwater obstacles and cavities on surface waves in the shallow-water approximation (for example, [2], [3]). Liquid oscillations in a layer of arbitrary depth slowly varying with length were considered in [4]. However, these results cannot be applied to the study of resonant interaction of gravitational waves with a periodically curved bottom.Translated from Zhurnal Prikladnoi Mekhaniki i Tekhnicheskoi Fiziki, No. 4, pp. 43–48, July–August, 1984.     

The solitary waves in stratified shear flow

In this paper, the basic equation of internal long waves in stratified shear flow is derived under Boussinesq assumption, the first order approximation solution is given for solitary waves with the effects of slowly varying topograph at the sea bottom, weak stratification and basic shear flow. The Project Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

Standing waves for a two-way model system for water waves

In this paper, we prove the existence of a large family of nontrivial bifurcating standing waves for a model system which describes two-way propagation of water waves in a channel of finite depth or in the near shore zone. In particular, it is shown that, contrary to the classical standing gravity wave problem on a fluid layer of finite depth, the Lyapunov–Schmidt method applies to find the bifurcation equation. The bifurcation set is formed with the discrete union of Whitney's umbrellas in the three-dimensional space formed with 3 parameters representing the time-period and the wave length, and the average of wave amplitude.     

Unsteady waves in a viscous fluid of finite depth

Here we study the plane and three-dimensional problems of unsteady waves which arise on the surface of a viscous fluid of finite depth under the influence of a velocity pulse applied on the bottom of the basin.The problem is considered as the simplest scheme for studying, with account for the effect of viscosity, the propagation of waves of the tsunami type which result from an underwater shock.Similar problems on the propagation of waves which arise from initial surface disturbances are considered in [1–9].     

Uni-directional waves over slowly varying bottom. Part I: Derivation of a KdV-type of equation

The exact equations for surface waves over an uneven bottom can be formulated as a Hamiltonian system, with the total energy of the fluid as Hamiltonian. If the bottom variations are over a length scale L that is longer than the characteristic wavelength ℓ, approximating the kinetic energy for the case of “rather long and rather low” waves gives Boussinesq type of equations. If in the case of an even bottom one restricts further to uni-directional waves, the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) is obtained. For slowly varying bottom this uni-directionalization will be studied in detail in this part I, in a very direct way which is simpler than other derivations found in the literature. The surface elevation is shown to be described by a forced KdV-type of equation. The modification of the obtained KdV-equation shares the property of the standard KdV-equation that it has a Hamiltonian structure, but now the structure map depends explicitly on the spatial variable through the bottom topography. The forcing is derived explicitly, and the order of the forcing, compared to the first order contributions of dispersion and nonlinearity in KdV, is shown to depend on the ratio between ℓ and L; for very mild bottom variations, the forcing is negligible. For localized topography the effect of this forcing is investigated. In part II the distortion of solitary waves will be studied.     

Phase structure of three-dimensional internal waves in a channel

The results of a theoretical and experimental investigation of the phase structure of three-dimensional internal waves in a horizontal channel occupied by an exponentially stratified fluid are presented. The stationary internal waves excited by a source moving uniformly along the bottom of a channel with rigid covers are considered. A dispersion relation, on the basis of which the phase structure of the internal waves in the far zone is investigated, is obtained within the context of the linear theory. The dependence of the boundary of the region of wave disturbances on the internal Froude number F is found. The equation of the lines of constant phase is obtained in the first approximation for large F. By means of an IAB-451 shadowgraph instrument, using the dark field method with vertical illumination, the phase patterns of the internal waves are obtained. The angles of the wave disturbance zone are measured in the region of relatively large F. Similarity of the phase patterns for the first three-dimensional mode is obtained experimentally for large F.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 1, pp. 129–135, January–February, 1989.The authors wish to thank A. T. Onufriev for his interest in their work.     

Nonlinear internal waves in a fluid of infinite depth in the presence of a horizontal magnetic field

An investigation is made into the propagation of long nonlinear weakly nonone-dimensional internal waves in an incompressible stratified fluid of infinite depth in the presence of a horizontal magnetic field. It is shown that such waves are described by an equation representing the extension of the Benjamin-Ono equation to the weakly nonone-dimensional case. The equation obtained differs from that obtained in [4], which is attributable to the anisotropy of the medium resulting from the presence of a magnetic field. The stability of a soliton with respect to flexural perturbations is investigated. A particular case of the variation of the density with height at constant Alfvén velocity is examined in detail.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 6, pp. 65–72, November–December, 1987.     

Internal solitary waves moving over the low slopes of topographies

Internal solitary waves moving over uneven bottoms are analyzed based on the reductive perturbation method, in which the amplitude, slope and horizontal lengthscale of a topography on the bottom are of the orders of , ^5/2 and ^−3/2, respectively, where the small parameter is also a measure of the wave amplitude. A free surface condition is adopted at the top of the fluid layer. That condition contains two parameters, δ and Δ, the first of which concerns the discontinuity of the basic density between the outer layer and the inner one; the second concerns the discontinuity of the mean density between them. An amplitude equation for the disturbance of order decomposes into a Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation and a system of algebraic equations for a stationary disturbance around a topography on the bottom. Solitary waves moving over a localized hill are studied in a simple case where both the basic flow speed and the Brunt-Vaisalla frequency are constant over the fluid layer. For this case, the expression for the amplitude of the stationary disturbance contains singular points with respect to basic flow speed. These singularities correspond to the resonant conditions modified by the free surface condition. The advancing speeds of solitary waves are changed by the influence of bottom topography, in a case where the long internal waves propagate in the direction opposite to the basic flow, but their waveforms remain almost unchanged.     

Numerical simulation of plane and spatial nonlinear stationary waves in a two-layer fluid of arbitrary depth

The solution of a model differential equation for the three-dimensional perturbations of the interface between two immiscible fluids of different densities lying between a stationary nondeformable bottom and cover is presented. It is assumed that the waves have an arbitrary length and small, though finite, amplitude. The shapes of stationary traveling internal waves, both periodic in the two horizontal coordinates and soliton-like, are presented. These shapes depend on different parameters of the problem: the direction of the perturbation wave vector and the fluid layer depth and density ratios.     

Homogenization of acoustic waves in strongly heterogeneous porous structures

We consider acoustic waves in fluid-saturated periodic media with dual porosity. At the mesoscopic level, the fluid motion is governed by the Darcy flow model extended by inertia terms and by the mass conservation equation. In this study, assuming the porous skeleton is rigid, the aim is to distinguish the effects of the strong heterogeneity in the permeability coefficients. Using the asymptotic homogenization method we derive macroscopic equations and obtain the dispersion relationship for harmonic waves. The double porosity gives rise to an extra homogenized coefficient of dynamic compressibility which is not obtained in the upscaled single porosity model. Both the single and double porosity models are compared using an example illustrating wave propagation in layered media.     

Modeling of long nonlinear waves on the interface in a horizontal two-layer viscous channel flow

The dynamics of two-dimensional waves of small but finite amplitude are theoretically studied for the case of a two-layer system bounded by a horizontal top and bottom. It is shown that for relatively large steady-state flow velocities and at certain fluid depth ratios the vertical velocity profile is nonlinear. An evolutionary equation governing the fluid interface disturbances and allowing for the long-wave contributions of the layer inertia and surface tension, the weak nonlinearity of the waves, and the unsteady friction on all the boundaries of the system is derived. Steady-state solutions of the cnoidal and solitary wave type for the disturbed flow are determined without regard for dissipation losses. It is found that the magnitude and the direction of the flow can alter not only the lengths of the waves but also their polarity.__________Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Academii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 1, 2005, pp. 143–158. Original Russian Text Copyright © 2005 by Arkhipov and Khabakhpashev.     

On uniformly accurate high‐order Boussinesq difference equations for water waves

A new accurate finite‐difference (AFD) numerical method is developed specifically for solving high‐order Boussinesq (HOB) equations. The method solves the water‐wave flow with much higher accuracy compared to the standard finite‐difference (SFD) method for the same computer resources. It is first developed for linear water waves and then for the nonlinear problem. It is presented for a horizontal bottom, but can be used for variable depth as well. The method can be developed for other equations as long as they use Padé approximation, for example extensions of the parabolic equation for acoustic wave problems. Finally, the results of the new method and the SFD method are compared with the accurate solution for nonlinear progressive waves over a horizontal bottom that is found using the stream function theory. The agreement of the AFD to the accurate solution is found to be excellent compared to the SFD solution. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The solitary waves in a gradually varying channel of arbitrary cross-section

In this paper, the solitary waves in an arbitrary cross-section channel which gradually changes in the streamwise have been studied. TheKdV equation with slowly varying coefficients is derived. Thus, we produced the first term of its asymptotic solution, travel speed of soiltary waves and the relation between the amplitude of wave and the geometric size of channel. The results have been applied to the cases of triangular and rectangular channels. For the channel with varying depths and breadths they are fairly consistent with those of Johnson, Shuto and Mile.     

Uniform far field asymptotics of internal gravity waves from a source moving in a stratified fluid layer with smoothly varying bottom

The far field asymptotics of internal waves is constructed for the case when a point source of mass moves in a layer of arbitrarily stratified fluid with slowly varying bottom. The solutions obtained describe the far field both near the wave fronts of each individual mode and away from the wave fronts and are expansions in Airy or Fresnel waves with the argument determined from the solution of the corresponding eikonal equation. The amplitude of the wave field is determined from the energy conservation law along the ray tube. For model distributions of the bottom shape and the stratification describing the typical pattern of the ocean shelf eract analytic expressions are obtained for the rays, and the properties of the phase structure of the wave field are analyzed. Moscow. Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Akademii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 3, pp. 111–120, May–June, 1998. This work was financially supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (project No. 96-01-01120).