清末传世纺织品的材质鉴别和所用染料的微量分析

从早期纺织品保护的视角出发，通过对这一行业国内外大量文献资料梳理分析，对比了织物的常规系统分析方法，结合现代的科学技术方法，对早期纺织品的面料种类、所用染料种类以及染色工艺进行测定分析。面对目前服饰博物馆清末传世朱红女袄保藏面临的严峻考验，运用傅里叶变换红外光谱仪鉴定该纺织品的材质，以萃取法提取纺织品上的染料，用反射分光色度仪对提取前后的纺织品进行表面颜色分析，并用高压液相色谱和质谱对色素进行结构分析，尝试确定分析早期纺织品上染料的结构成分和上染方式。将现代分析技术（液质联用）和理念（色度学）融入传统研究中，使用客观科学技术获取更多有效数据和信息，佐证以主观目鉴方法得出的结论，弥补这一研究领域的空白，使对于传统服饰的研究更具深度。与传统的纺织品鉴别方法横向比较，现代的科学技术方法获得的相关信息更加详尽可靠。有利于根据不同染料特性和不同纤维种类特性提出具有针对性的保藏措施，对博物馆馆藏纺织品的保护和保存具有重要的意义。采用傅里叶变换红外仪对样品的面料进行简单分析，通过不同的特殊特征峰确定了样品为蚕丝面料。该研究建立了一种普遍适用的染料提取方法，采用丙酮、乙腈、吡啶：水（1∶1）、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺、0.1%乙二胺四乙酸水溶液/N,N-二甲基甲酰胺（1∶1）、甲醇六种不同的溶剂提取样品上的染料，采用反射分光光度仪对样品表面剥色前后的颜色进行色度测量分析。结果表明，吡啶的水溶液对染料具有最佳的提取效果；发现提取染料时加入少量乙二胺四乙酸，会提高剥色效率，即染色方式可能是媒染法，因为乙二胺四乙酸可以破坏染料和媒染金属离子间的络合作用。从染料提取前后织物的颜色变化可以推断样品的颜色可能是由染料拼色得到，利用液质联用技术（LC-MS）对提取的染料进行检测，根据染料上染方式和分子量推测分析，纺织品上染料可能含有小檗碱。经过标准小檗碱染料进行验证，进一步证明了染色纺织品上其中一种染料为小檗碱。

Material Identification of the Late Qing Dynasty Textile and Microanalysis of Dye Used in Textile

From the perspective of early textiles protection, this article analyzes a large number of domestic and foreign literature materials in this field. By comparing the conventional system analysis methods of fabrics and combining with modern scientific and technological methods, the types of fiber, types of dyes and dyeing processes of traditional costumes were measured and analyzed. Faced with the severe situation of the preservation of dyeing textiles of the costume museum in the late Qing Dynasty. In this study, FT-IR was used to identify the material of garments, and the dyes on textiles were extracted by extraction method. The Lab values of color of the textile surface before and after extraction were analyzed by a reflection spectrophotometer. The structure of dyes was analyzed by high-pressure liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry (LC-MS) to determine the structural components of dyes. To further study traditional costumes, we integrated modern analysis techniques (LC-MS) and concepts (Lab system) into traditional research, used objective science and technology to obtain more effective data and information and then support the conclusions obtained by subjective observation methods, which makes up for the gaps in this research field. Compared with traditional methods of textile identification, the relevant information obtained by modern scientific and technological methods is more detailed and reliable. It is advantageous to provide targeted preservation measures according to the characteristics of different dyes and different fibers, which is of great significance to the protection and preservation of the museum’s collection textiles. Aiming at the special needs of dyeing textiles in the late Qing Dynasty, it is necessary to carry out targeted preservation measures according to different dyestuff characteristics. In order to identify the dyes on a female red coat which may be produced in the late Qing Dynasty, the textile material was analyzed by FT-IR spectroscopy. The results indicated that it was silkworm silk fabrics. A method for extracting dyes from fabrics was established. Acetone, acetonitrile, pyridine/water (1/1, W/W), N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF), 0.1% ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)/DMF (1/1, W/W) and methanol were used to extract the dye from the sample and using the reflection spectrophotometer to compare the color measurement of the color of the textile surface and the color after peeling. In addition, it was found that adding a small amount of EDTA when extracting the dye would increase the stripping efficiency, so the dyeing method might be a mordant method, and EDTA might destroy the complexation between the dye and the mordant metal ion. The color appearance of the textile was measured by using a spectrophotometer, and the extracted dyes were analyzed by LC-MS technology. It was found that the water solution of pyridine had the best extraction effect for the dye. The results of LC-MS analysis indicated that the coat’s red color could be mainly matched by many dyes, and the main one of the dyes might be berberine (yellow) according to the way of dyeing onto the fabric and the same molecular weight. After verification by standard berberine dyes, it was proved that one of the dyes was berberine.