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Perturbation analysis of short-crested waves in Lagrangian coordinates
Authors:Hung-Chu Hsu  Yang-Yih Chen  Cyun-Fu Wang
Institution:1. Tainan Hydraulics Lab., Research Center of Ocean Environment and Technology, National Cheng Kung University, Tainan 701, Taiwan;2. Department of Marine Environment and Eng., National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 804, Taiwan
Abstract:A new second-order asymptotic solution that describes short-crested waves is derived in Lagrangian coordinates. The analytical Lagrangian solution that is uniformly valid satisfies the irrotational condition and there being zero pressure at the free surface, in contrast with the Eulerian solution, in which there is residual pressure at the free surface. The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and the wave kinematics above the mean water level. The mass transport velocity and Lagrangian mean level associated with particle displacement can also be obtained directly. In particular, the mean level of the particle motion in a Lagrangian form differs that of the Eulerian form. The new formulation reduces to second-order standing or progressive wave solutions in Lagrangian coordinates at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.
Keywords:
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