Diffraction of cnoidal waves by vertical cylinders in shallow water

Diffraction of nonlinear waves by single or multiple in-line vertical cylinders in shallow water is studied by use of different nonlinear, shallow-water wave theories. The fixed, in-line, vertical circular cylinders extend from the free surface to the seafloor and are located in a row parallel to the incident wave direction. The wave–structure interaction problem is studied by use of the nonlinear generalized Boussinesq equations, the Green–Naghdi shallow-water wave equations, and the linearized version of the shallow-water wave equations. The wave-induced force and moment of the Green–Naghdi and the Boussinesq equations are presented when the incoming waves are cnoidal, and the forces are compared with the experimental data when available. Results of the linearized equations are compared with the nonlinear results. It is observed that nonlinearity is very important in the calculation of the wave loads on circular cylinders in shallow water. The variation of wave loads with wave height, wavelength and the spacing between cylinders is studied. Effect of the neighboring cylinders, and the shielding effect of upwave cylinders on the wave-induced loads on downwave cylinders are discussed.     

Fluid–structure interaction between a two-dimensional mat-type VLFS and solitary waves by the Green–Naghdi theory

The two-dimensional, nonlinear hydroelasticity of a mat-type very large floating structure (VLFS) is studied within the scope of linear beam theory for the structure and the nonlinear, Level I Green–Naghdi (GN) theory for the fluid. The beam equation and the GN equations are coupled through the kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions to obtain a new set of modified GN equations. These equations represent long-wave motion beneath an elastic plate. A set of jump conditions that are necessary for the continuity (or the matching) of the solutions in the open water region and that under the structure is derived through the use of the postulated conservation laws of mass, momentum, and mechanical energy. The resulting governing equations, subjected to the boundary and jump conditions, are solved by the finite-difference method in the time domain. The present model is applicable, for example, to the study of the hydroelastic response of a mat-type VLFS under the action of a solitary wave, or a frontal tsunami wave. Good agreement is observed between the model results and other published theoretical and numerical predictions, as well as experimental data. The results show that consideration of nonlinearity is important for accurate predictions of the bending moment of the floating elastic plate. It is found that the rigidity of the structure greatly affects the bending moment and displacement of the structure in this nonlinear theory.     

Wave forces on a submerged horizontal plate - Part I: Theory and modelling

This paper is concerned with the propagation of nonlinear gravity waves over a thin horizontal plate submerged in water of shallow depth. An unsteady solution of the problem is obtained by use of the theory of directed fluid-sheets for the two-dimensional motion of an incompressible and inviscid fluid. Particular attention is paid to the calculation of the nonlinear wave-induced vertical and horizontal forces and overturning moment by solving the Level I Green–Naghdi equations. The theoretical formulation of the problem is given in this paper (Part I), while the results due to solitary and cnoidal waves, and comparisons with the available experimental data are given in a companion paper under the same title (Part II).     

Wave forces on a submerged horizontal plate–Part II: Solitary and cnoidal waves

This paper is the companion to Part I under the same title, and is mainly concerned with wave loads due to nonlinear waves of solitary and cnoidal type propagating over a submerged, horizontal and thin plate. Following the development of the nonlinear model (via the Level I Green–Naghdi theory) for the flow of an incompressible and inviscid fluid given in Part I, the wave-induced loads on the submerged, fixed (and rigid) plate are calculated, and results are compared with the available laboratory data, and with linear solutions of the problem. Dependence of the loads on wave conditions (wave height and wavelength) and plate characteristics (submergence depth and plate width) are studied for both the solitary and cnoidal wave cases.     

Internal waves in a two‐layer system using fully nonlinear internal‐wave equations

In order to understand the nonlinear effect in a two‐layer system, fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal‐wave equations, based on a variational principle, were proposed in this study. A simple iteration method was used to solve the internal‐wave equations in order to solve the equations stably. The applicability of the proposed numerical computation scheme was confirmed to agree with linear dispersion relation theoretically obtained from variational principle. The proposed computational scheme was also shown to reproduce internal waves including higher‐order nonlinear effect from the analysis of internal solitary waves in a two‐layer system. Furthermore, for the second‐order numerical analysis, the balance of nonlinearity and dispersion was found to be similar to the balance assumed in the KdV theory and the Boussinesq‐type equations. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On the steady solitary-wave solution of the Green–Naghdi equations of different levels

The steady-state solitary wave solution of high-level Green–Naghdi (GN) equations is obtained by use of the Newton–Raphson method. Four aspects of solitary waves are studied: the wave speed, wave profile, velocity field and particle trajectory. A convergence study is performed for each individual case. Results of the converged model are compared with the existing laboratory experiments and other theoretical solutions for an inviscid and incompressible fluid, including the solutions of the Euler equations. Particle trajectories, predicted by the GN model, show close agreement with the laboratory measurements and provide a new approach to understanding the movement of the particles under a solitary wave. It is further shown that high-level GN equations can predict the solitary wave of the highest height.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical simulation of a solitary wave interaction with submerged multi-bodies

The problems of a solitary wave passing over rectangular cylinders have been analysed. The numerical simulation is based on the full nonlinear two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations which are solved by the finite difference method. The free surface is dealt with by the Volume of Fluid method (VOF). Results for a solitary wave passing over a single cylinder are compared with the experimental data of Seabra-Santos, Penouard and Temperville^[2] and better agreement is obtained than those obtained from the long wave equation based on the potential flow theory. Results are also given for two cylinders with different gaps. The project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China and the Development Foundation of Science and Technology of Shanghai Education Committee and the Royal Society.     

梁中非线性弯曲波传播特性的研究

研究了梁中的非线性弯曲波的传播特性，同时考虑了梁的大挠度引起的几何非线性效应和 梁的转动惯性导致的弥散效应，利用Hamilton变分法建立了梁中非线性弯曲波的波动方程. 对该方程进行了定性分析，在不同的条件下，该方程在相平面上存在同宿轨道或异宿轨道， 分别对应于方程的孤波解或冲击波解. 利用Jacobi椭圆函数展开法，对该非线性方程进行 求解，得到了非线性波动方程的准确周期解及相对应的孤波解和冲击波解，讨论了这些解存 在的必要条件，这与定性分析的结果完全相同. 利用约化摄动法从非线性弯曲波动方程中导 出了非线性Schr\"{o}dinger方程，从理论上证明了考虑梁的大挠度和转动惯性时梁中存在 包络孤立波.     

A new numerical model for simulations of wave transformation,breaking and long‐shore currents in complex coastal regions

In this paper, we propose a model based on a new contravariant integral form of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking, and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The aforementioned contravariant integral form, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is characterized by the fact that the continuity equation does not include any dispersive term. A procedure developed in order to correct errors related to the difficulties of numerically satisfying the metric identities in the numerical integration of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation on generalized boundary‐conforming grids is presented. The Boussinesq equation system is numerically solved by a hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The proposed high‐order upwind weighted essentially non‐oscillatory finite volume scheme involves an exact Riemann solver and is based on a genuinely two‐dimensional reconstruction procedure, which uses a convex combination of biquadratic polynomials. The wave breaking is represented by discontinuities of the weak solution of the integral form of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly represent wave propagation, wave breaking, and wave‐induced currents is verified against test cases present in the literature. The results obtained are compared with experimental measures, analytical solutions, or alternative numerical solutions. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Three kinds of nonlinear dispersive waves in elastic rods with finite deformation

On the basis of classical linear theory on longitudinal, torsional and flexural waves in thin elastic rods, and taking finite deformation and dispersive effects into consideration, three kinds of nonlinear evolution equations are derived. Qualitative analysis of three kinds of nonlinear equations are presented. It is shown that these equations have homoclinic or heteroclinic orbits on the phase plane, corresponding to solitary wave or shock wave solutions, respectively. Based on the principle of homogeneous balance, these equations are solved with the Jacobi elliptic function expansion method. Results show that existence of solitary wave solution and shock wave solution is possible under certain conditions. These conclusions are consistent with qualitative analysis.     

Symmetries of the hyperbolic shallow water equations and the Green–Naghdi model in Lagrangian coordinates

The observation that the hyperbolic shallow water equations and the Green–Naghdi equations in Lagrangian coordinates have the form of an Euler–Lagrange equation with a natural Lagrangian allows us to apply Noether's theorem for constructing conservation laws for these equations. In this study the complete group analysis of these equations is given: admitted Lie groups of point and contact transformations, classification of the point symmetries and all invariant solutions are studied. For the hyperbolic shallow water equations new conservation laws which have no analog in Eulerian coordinates are obtained. Using Noether's theorem a new conservation law of the Green–Naghdi equations is found. The dependence of solutions on the parameter is illustrated by self-similar solutions which are invariant solutions of both models.     

On the Interphase Heat Transfer Effect on Nonlinear Wave Propagation in a Gas-Liquid Mixture

The effect of interphase heat transfer on shock wave propagation is investigated. A multiwave nonlinear equation which in the limiting case of the absence of heat transfer decomposes into two classic generalizations of the Boussinesq equations is derived. Quasi-isothermal and quasi-adiabatic propagation regimes for which the heat transfer is fairly intense are considered. For both regimes, nonlinear equations describing the wave propagation are obtained. The equation describing the first regime is investigated in detail. Exact analytic solutions of this equation are given and used to study the shock wave structures and the solitary wave behavior. Formulas for the dependence of the heat transfer rate on the equilibrium-mixture parameters are obtained.     

港口非线性波浪耦合计算模型研究

建立了外域用差分法求解高阶Boussinesq方程、内域用边界元法求解Laplace方程的二维船 非线性波浪力时域计算的耦合模型. 研究了该类耦合模型的匹配条件、耦合求解过程和内域、 外域公共区域长度的确定. 该耦合模型计算结果与只用边界元求解Laplace方程模型的计算 结果和实验结果对比表明，该耦合模型不仅计算精度高，而且计算效率快，适用于研究较大 区域内波浪对物体的非线性作用.     

Reflection of plane waves from an elastic solid half-space under hydrostatic initial stress without energy dissipation

In this paper, the basic governing equations for isotropic and homogeneous generalized thermoelastic half-space under hydrostatic initial stress are formulated in the context of the Green and Naghdi theory of types II and III. These governing equations are solved analytically to obtain the dimensional velocities in an xy-plane. It is shown that there exist three plane waves, namely a thermal wave, a P-wave and an SV-wave. The reflection from an insulated and isothermal stress-free surface is studied to obtain the reflection amplitude ratios of the reflected waves for the incidence of P- and SV-waves. Numerical computations are carried out and comparisons made with the results predicted in the presence and absence of hydrostatic initial stress. Also the effect of the thermoelastic coupling parameter and the thermal condition on amplitude ratios are shown graphically.     

孤立波与多孔介质结构物的非线性相互作用

基于精确至Ｏ（εμ＾２,μ＾４）的多孔介质无压渗流模型方程和均匀流体质波动的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程,本文对孤立波与多孔介质结构物的相互作用了较系统的数值实验。控制方程采用基于有限差分方程离散,在时域上采用了预估－校正方法进行了时间积分。在求解演化方程的过程中,引入“内迭代”过程实现流体域和多孔介质交界面的连接条件。结果表明孤立波在多孔介质上的反射与在不可渗透的界面上的反射类似,形成反向的孤立波但     

基于Boussinesq方程的波浪模型

从欧拉方程出发，提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法，并对方程的 线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进. 改进后方程的线性色散关系达到了一阶Stokes波 色散关系的Pad\'{e}[4,4]近似，在相对水深达1.0的强色散波浪时仍保持较高的准确性，并且方程的非线性和线性 变浅率都得到了不同程度的改善. 方程的水平一维形式用预估-校正的有限差分格式求解， 建立了一个适合较强非线性波浪的Boussinesq波浪数值模型. 作为验证，模拟了波浪在潜 堤上的传播变形，计算结果和实验数据的比较发现两者符合良好.     

BIFURCATIONS OF TRAVELLING WAVE SOLUTIONS IN VARIANT BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS

The bifurcations of solitary waves and kink waves for variant Boussinesq equations are studied by using the bifurcation theory of planar dynamical systems. The bifurcation sets and the numbers of solitary waves and kink waves for the variant Boussinesq equations are presented. Several types explicit formulas of solitary waves solutions and kink waves solutions are obtained. In the end, several formulas of periodic wave solutions are presented.     

Classification of traveling wave solutions to the Green–Naghdi model

In this paper, the Green–Naghdi model is investigated by employing the qualitative method. We classify all traveling wave solutions to this model in specified parameter region of the parameter space. Especially, we study the limiting behavior of all smooth and non-smooth periodic solutions as the parameters tend to some special values. Based on the qualitative results, all exact traveling wave solutions as well as their profiles are also given.     

分层流体中内孤立波在台阶上的反射和透射

基于匹配渐近展开和格林函数的方法，研究了两层流体系统中内孤立波在台阶地形上透射、 反射及其分裂的演化特征. 通过保角变换和求解奇异Fredholm积分方程，获得了反映地形 效应对Boussinesq方程影响的约化边界条件，藉此建立了KdV演化方程的``初值'问题， 根据散射反演理论获得了反射波和透射波的解析表达式. 分析结果表明：上下流体层的厚度 比、密度比以及台阶高度对于反射和透射波振幅及其分裂具有显著的影响. 尤其当上层流体 厚度小于下层厚度时，由于存在临界点，在其附近反射波的幅值随台阶高度的演化由单调增 变为单调减，透射波的幅值由单调减变为单调增；上台阶的反射波与入射波反相，其最大幅 值可达到入射波的数倍；此外，下台阶反射波也可发展为单支孤立波，它区别于单层流体中 反射波仅为衰减的振荡波列.